Introduction: Power in the Apocalypse (How to Build a Wood-Gasifier)
In this Instructable I will be showing you the steps I used to build my Wood/Biomass Gasifier. It was really a fun project and I would encourage anyone serious about preparedness to build one. Now in case you don't know what a Gasifier is (and don't feel bad if you don't as very few people do lol), they are quite simple, let me explain. Essentially all gasification is, is a form of incomplete combustion, heat from the burning solid fuel creates gases which are unable to burn completely because of the insufficient amounts of oxygen from the available supply of air, it then filters those gasses(which is by weight: 20% hydrogen, 20% carbon monoxide, 50 to 60% nitrogen, and a little bit of methane) And you can really use any kind of Biomass(organic material) that will burn. You can even use things like paper, coal, peat, and lignite. You can then use that filtered gas to run any thing from a generator to a car. So now that you have a basic understanding of what gasification is, lets get down to the build!!!
Step 1: Basic Information.
Don't worry, for this project you wont need any fancy tools or equipment. Just a welder, an angle grinder, an oxy-acetylene torch, and a drill, along with the knowledge of how to use them. Most of the materials used were found in friends' scrap piles so for me cost wasn't a big issue. And you can (in theory) make this to whatever size you need, so keep that in mind when gathering materials. But don't forget, whatever fuel you use has to be able to feed through the fire tube easily. The fire tube acts as a sort of dryer and hopper. The fire tube feeds the fuel into the shaker grate, which is where the fuel combusts. The gasses are then sucked out of the gasifier unit and pulled through the filter units. And after doing some research I chose to go with a cyclone filter and a media filter. Ideally I should have added a condenser after the cyclone filter to to get as much moisture out of the gas as possible. But oh well lol. But I would recommend adding one if you plan on building one of these.
The size of the fire tube governs the size of the engine you can run. Here is a chart showing the fire tube sizes and the respective horsepower. The larger the fire tube, the more fuel it will burn, the more gas it will produce.
Inside diameter (inches) Minimum length (inches) Engine power (hp)
2 16 5
4 16 15
6 16 30
7 18 40
8 20 50
9 22 65
10 24 80
11 26 100
12 28 120
13 30 140
14 32 160
Step 2: Building the Gasifier Unit.
The first thing you need (as with anything) is a solid foundation. Because I was dealing with scrap metal, the frame is made from 1"x2" tubing and angle iron. I used a piece of 4.75" exhaust pipe for the fire tube, and the shaker grate is made from a brake rotor with the bottom cut out, and .25" rebar welded in place. The grate is suspended from chains welded to the fire tube supports. I left about 1" from the bottom of the fire tube to the bottom of the grate. I used 1.25" pipe for the ignition tube, which is that pipe leading into the side of the fire tube.
Everything on a gasifier needs to be air tight, which presented me with one of the main problems. How to get the shaker grate assembly through the side of the barrel and make it rotate while keeping it air tight, and it had to be heat resistant. My solution, was to run the handle rod through a piece of .75" pipe capped off on both ends, and then pack that with fine steel wool. And that seems to have done the job quite well. The purpose of the shaking action is to sift the ash and dead charcoal through the grate to make space for more fuel.
The ash clean out port is made from a piece of 6" pipe with a cover made from a .25" steel plate. I welded some lengths of 3/8" all thread to the sides of the 6" pipe and drilled corresponding holes in ears I left on the cover plate. And I sealed it with wood stove gasket maker and cemented it in place with stove cement. Then you just bolt and unbolt the cover plate as needed.
The pipe you see going into the side of the fire tube is the ignition tube. Its capped off with 1.25" coupler with a washer welded on to seal it off, and I decided to add a handle to make it easier to use.
Step 3: The Cyclone Filter.
Okay good, the hard part is over with lol. The filter units are the easiest part of the whole build. The first of the two filters is a cyclone filter which acts partly as a filter (obviously) and partly as a condenser. The water vapor, creosote, tar, and some particulates are collected on the inner sides of the filter as the cyclone of gas spins. These then run down into the collection jar. I chose to use a 5 gallon propane tank as the filter housing. All I had to do was run a pipe from the gasifier unit in through the side of the tank at an angle, to initiate a cyclone. Then run another pipe through the top of the tank which sits about 2" from the bottom. I flipped the tank over and used the original top of the tank as the bottom of the filter. The threads from the valve hole accept a .75" pipe nipple, which is attached to a flange and bolted to a jar lid. I added a rubber gasket between the flange and the lid to make a nice air tight seal. Now just screw on the jar and tadaa, a catchment basin lol. And that's really all there is to the cyclone filter.
Now. . . onto the next step.
Step 4: The Media Filter.
The media filter is made from a metal strong box tipped onto its side. The pipe leading through the top of the box comes straight from the top of the cyclone filter. And then you would just fill the box with an appropriate filter media such as wood shavings, cloth, or even as a more expensive but safer alternative, steel wool.
Next comes the plumbing. You can see the logic behind the pipe assortment there, but i'll explain anyway. So first there is a tee which splits between the air pump and the outlet to the engine. The valves are for switching between the two as well as acting as a choke for the air pump. And the pump leads up to the flare. The purpose of the flare is to check gas quality before routing it to the engine.
I figured that in the apocalypse the chance of having a working wall outlet is pretty slim lol. So I chose to use an air pump that could run off of a 12v car battery. Nothing special, just an air mattress pump that connects to a vehicles power point.
Step 5: Tips on Using Your New Gasifier.
If you decided to reproduce this project, here are some tips and tricks to get you started. Firstly, the fuel you use must be bone dry, and I mean REALLY dry. Store bought wood pellets seam to do the trick nicely.
So you built a gasifier and want to try it out... Now what? First fill the fire tube with your fuel of choice, then simply turn the pump on(with lots of choke at first), then uncap the ignition tube, insert a source of ignition, let the fire catch, recap the ignition tube, and as the fire progresses let off the choke a little bit at a time. After it has been running for awhile hold a flame to the end of the flare and, with any luck, the gas will ignite. Between the gasifier and the engine, the gas will need to be pre-carbureted, which is as simple as adding a tee in the hose to bleed off excess gas. Then you just run the line into the engine carburetor and that's it! Unfortunately, I haven't tested this on a full size vehicle yet, as I am only 15, and my mom wont let me get anywhere near her car lol.
Step 6: In Closing.
Lastly I added a handle and some caster wheels, as well as sealing everything with wood stove sealer and giving it a coat or two of high heat paint. This was a fun and very educational project, I would really encourage anyone who is interested in being prepared, or just looking for a fun project, to build a gasifier. If you enjoyed this instructable, let me know in the comment section below. If you have any questions please let me know and I will do my best to answer them.
This is not something you should use indoors. As it does produce flammable and toxic gasses.
DISCLAIMER:
As the reader, you assume all risks of reproduction of this project. I am in no way responsible for any damages or injuries to anyone or anything during the making or using of this project.
If you really enjoyed, please consider voting for me in the Apocalypse Ready contest. :)

First Prize in the
Survival Ready Contest
92 Comments
Question 6 months ago on Step 3
Why use a 55 gal can? I'm at a lose, are you just filling the 4-6" burn tube? I don't see any images of the wood in the drum
1 year ago on Step 6
Man I give you big time Kudos!!! I learned how to weld at age 11 from my dad and next door neighbor. I built gocarts and mini bikes for fun among other thing. That experience helped me on many jobs later on in life. I am a generator freak and as of now have 8 gennies laying around if not more.
Im building 2 gasifiers rite now so i can power my house and my landlords house in power outages witch we both get allot of. I just ordered my blower and shaker gear motor from amazon. In my pic ive got 3 100lb LP tanks and 2 of the smaller RV tanks. The yellow tubes are old parking stop posts from an old gas station for burn tubes. The 3rd 100lb LP tank is sacrificial for 2 lids and 2 ash clean out side doors. All that was only $50 at my local scrap yard and the amazon parts $80. The rest of the plumbing i have lying around.
Thanks for your great contribution!!!
1 year ago
Your 15 and built something that most people would never dream of doing. On top of that you were so skilled at it, that you were able to teach all of these people how to build their own. Your already making a difference in the world as a kid. Imagine what you can do when you grow older and wiser. Keep it up and I wish you the best of luck with whatever you decide to do.
Question 1 year ago on Step 2
Can i have the mechanical design of it ?
2 years ago
I forgot the "excellent job" part. Here it is: EXCELLENT JOB.
Haven you gone down the fire brick / soap stone path for protection of the burn chambers yet? If not, look into those things and tie in water glass (sodium silicate). Soap stone is said to take about 1000 degrees more than common fire brick.
I was told mixing water glass and talc, then baking it could create soap stone.
When I look at forge an kiln linings, many of the cloth materials offered list sodium silicate.
Too, look into diatomaceous earth. Here, there is a "mine" and we can go get free, broken bags of the stuff for projects and pest control. A few jet stoves use it to insulate between pipes.
I believe some bags material sold in auto parts stores for clean up are just diatomaceous earth. That would be a lot cheaper than the bag my boss sent me to town to get twenty-five years ago. I paid twenty bucks for a one or two pound bag. Now I have a couple free, five gallon buckets sitting out in the shop.
2 years ago
I've long had an appreciation for things like gassifiers, and jet stoves. I figure the two go hand in hand because they both focus on efficient use of an ancient technology.
With today's knowledge and technology, they should be more common, and even more practical than they were back when the U.S. government used gassifiers to power a fleet of vehicles.
Sadly, the wood stove has seen few honest improvements over the years. In fact, I was shocked to hear friends brag about only needing four cords of wood to heat their rather large homes. Especially because, back around 72, I heated an uninsulated, two story farm house off an antique stove (about three or four hundred pounds) with more controls than my modern car (okay, that might be a slight exaggeration). I did it in a fifty below, Eastern Washington winter and on two cords (about a half cord of fir and the rest apple).
Then there is the matter of my sister's complaint about her pellet stove - it's worthless without power. In fact, when I lived on the ocean beaches of the Pacific Northwet, I saw nearly new pellet stoves out in front of houses with free signs on them, just after major storms and a resulting two week spell with no power to the area.
I haven't done it, but for that solution, I figured one or two five gallon buckets of concrete would solve the problem.
Using the method used to drive pendulum clocks, one could build a variable speed system that ran the auger somewhere around one RPM, or whatever such stoves require.
To raise the buckets, a simple block and tackle system would allow even a kid to "charge the auger battery."
I would not be surprised if the system would run a week between times the buckets had to be raised.
Using jet stove and gassifier technology, then mixing in the auger feed technology, one should be able to run a pretty efficient household, even if the gassifier portion only produced enough power to run a chipper to fill the auger.
One of the key points of both systems is, smoke should be nearly a non-issue, and one should be able to heat a well insulated structure with a fraction of the fuel the pretty wood stoves sold today use.
SIDE NOTE: A house I rented on the Northewet ocean beaches had an open basement. I enclosed it and installed a wood burner in the basement. The solid concrete floors and walls acted like a heat flywheel. It took about three days to bring all the concrete up to a comfortable temp, but, once there, it took a couple days to cool too.
The combo of heat and concrete made the basement quite comfortable. I imagine it would have been remarkable, had the concrete floor had foam under it and if the exterior of the walls had six inches of insulation on the outside.
2 years ago on Step 6
Nice project. Creative success in new projects!
5 years ago on Step 6
Hi. Amazing project. Can you post video of the gassifier operating? Or maybe even make a video version of this how to article? Thank you!
Question 5 years ago
What about using a large flat panel magnifying glass focused on a tungsten Archimedes screw to gasifiy wet algae biomass?
this could process waste water and make diesel per home no?
Question 5 years ago
Where can you get these materials and could you provide a materials list and cost?
5 years ago
Kid, that's totally badass !
Reply 5 years ago
Well, thanks! But wait until you see my NEXT project...
6 years ago
Grate job young man . Vary clear and understandable.
You say your're 15 ? I can't remember that far back with out blacking out.
My first attempt at gassification was a flop. Too many leaks.
The second one works I use it to heat a hot tub.
The shaker grate you came up with , Works Awesome Thanks .
I'm a retired Millwright and I had issues with this part.
Reply 5 years ago
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words, and I'm glad you could take something useful away from this Instructable.
6 years ago
You did a great job on this project.
I am planning on making A gasifier and was taking some notes.
Was wondering, I know that the one handle on the gasifier is the shacker but what is the other one for.
Also could you post a drawing or something of all the components that go into the actual gasifier unit because I am having troubles understanding the configuration of it.
Thanks
Reply 6 years ago
Hey there! Thanks for the comment. The other handle just makes it easier to take off the ignition port cap. As to your second question, I believe I showed everything on the inside. If you're still having trouble, let me know!
7 years ago
very nice build, I've read there is a way to convert Syngas I to diesel, but I'm not sure how that exactly works.
Reply 7 years ago
Yeah, I am currently working on a machine to turn coal into diesel. It's essentially the same process, only using indirect heating via a burner. The gasses produced are then condensed and ran thru a fuel scrubber.
Thank you so much for the comment!
Reply 7 years ago
do you know the process for converting syngas to diesel? could you point me at something to learn? I've been looking at a way to use plasma to turn material into syngas too.
Reply 6 years ago
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/704...
Above is a link to a forum where a lot of people has done a lot of work regarding the plastic to fuel process.