Introduction: Printing Large With Small 3d Printer
In this instructables I have 3d Printed a Large part with a small 3d Printer.
About that, a friend of mine works in a local Engineering Research facility and most of the time they outsource 3d printing since it is not sometime they frequently used there. So he gave me this project of printing this "Drone Wing profile kinda design".
So this instructable is about how to print a very large(not that large) model on a small 3d printer.
The job requirement was a 3d model of about 410x250x80mm object which was to be used as a pattern for Mold making, I could not print it on my 220x220x250mm bed size 3d printer. So I split the 3d model in 8 pieces and print it.
For this post processing you'll need:
Coarse Grit Sand Paper: 50c
Fine Grit Sand Paper: 800c
Iso Propyl Alcohol(Optional)
Magic Depoxi Steel
3d Printed Parts(obviously)
Step 1: Splitting the 3d Model
I use Solidworks since I have a Engineering Background.
Open the file in solidworks.
Select a flat surface, and click the "normal to" function.
Than go to the features tab, Reference Geometry and select the plane option.
Draw a Ref. plane in the center of the object.
Now on the title bar, go to insert menu, features and select split.
Cut the model in half using the Ref. plane as the cutting line, name both parts and click on the green tick to save them.
Furthermore, I divided the entire part into 8 pieces and Printed them in PLA.
Step 2: Post Processing
Now the post processing begins.
To join all the part together, we need to sand the joining surfaces to properly acquire the maximum surface area for the adhesive.
I have used 2 grit size,
first I sanded the surfaces with a coarse grit of 50 size.
After than I used a very fine grit size of about 800c size.
After sanding make sure to clean the part because most of the time an adhesive failure is caused by dirt.
So for that, First I washed the part thoroughly than I cleaned it with a tissue paper.
Than I applied some iso propyl Alcohol to get rid of any oil content.
Squeezed out an equal amount of the magic depoxi steel and mixed it.
Applied it on the joining surface.
Joined the two parts together very tightly to spread all of the epoxy in every scratch and hole and aligned them.
Join the narrow parts in the beginning, as here I have done it differently, It gets difficult to work with as the object begins to look big and you only have a very small surface area to joined them, obviously you have to control the amount of error in alignment and being this big there is a chance of error unless you have some sort of supporting structure to keep things in place.(just trying to teach you with my mistakes.... :D:D:D)
So I had to used a lot of epoxy on the outer side of the joining line to provide more surface area for bonding, what is the logic here? The outer side would cure faster than the inner side.
After everything was in its place I took a paper cutter knife and I scratched off all the excessive cured magic depoxi steel.
Step 3: Result
There is more post processing left which includes the Filling of the holes and seams and any cavities in the 3d print and than sanding and so on the mold making processing which is not included in this instructables because they were doing it by themselves.
The project turned out great, it had its up and downs, obviously they could have designed the model with some sort of supporting structure to joined them after printing.
But hopefully I will do this for myself to explore more option for any future project of mine.