Introduction: DIY Resin & Wood Nesting Tables

About: Hi, I’m Sam! Full time psychologist and woodworker! I build things and publish plans. Check out my website and YouTube channel for more project ideas!

Want to see this project in action? Check it out on YouTube!

Step 1: Resin & Wood Nesting Side Tables

I had this pair of nesting side tables that I kind of hate and were a few weeks away from being thrown in the trash… in all honesty, I honestly just bought them for the metal base design. The tops are pretty bad, and I’ve wanted to replace them for a long time. So, instead of throwing them out, I decided to upcycle them and replace the tops… and since I have a clear obsession with resin and wood projects, I decided to make them match the resin river coffee table I just made!

Visit my website for more details:

Step 2: Supplies


  • Drill/Driver
  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw (or Circular Saw)
  • Jig Saw or Router
  • Planer (Optional)
  • Chisel
  • Sander
  • Level


  • Live Edge Slabs
  • Metal Bases (I Upcycled Mine From An Old Pair of Tables)
  • Melamine Boards
  • Deep Pour Epoxy Resin
  • Resin Tint
  • Tyveck Tape
  • Silicone Caulking
  • Mixing Buckets & Resin Mixing Tools
  • Rubber Gloves

Step 3: Step 1: Prep Your Lumber

First, prep the lumber for the new table tops. I chose a slab of walnut I had saved for a rainy day and ran it through my planer to get it perfectly flat. If you don't have a planer, you can ask your local lumber yard to flatten the slabs for you.

Step 4: Step 2: Remove Any Bark

If there is any bark on your slabs, you will want to remove it using a chisel or a sander. This will help prevent bubbles from forming in your resin and will also prevent debris from coming loose as well.

Step 5: Step 3: Make Your Templates

Once your slabs have been prepped, marked your cuts and cut your slabs into smaller pieces using a table saw or circular saw. I used old table tops from a recycled table set as my template.

Step 6: Step 4: Build Your Resin Mold

Once the slabs are ready, it's time to prep the forms for the resin pour. I did this by cutting melamine boards into sizes that would fit both table tops. I was able to reuse some of the forms I used for my river table, which saved me a lot of money! But, if you need to make forms from scratch, you can use melamine boards and cover them in Tyveck tape!

Step 7: Step 5: Construct Your Molds

After taping, assemble the melamine molds. In order to avoid cracking the mold as I drove the screws, I used a drill bit and a countersink bit to make room for the screw to sit flush with the mold, but this is optional!

Step 8: Step 6: Seal Your Mold

Once the molds are assembled, use a waterproof silicone caulking to create a bead inside the mold and fill all of the cracks. This will prevent the epoxy from seeping out of the mold. Use your finger to flatten the bead and allow the silicone to dry before adding the slabs.

Step 9: Step 7: Add the Slabs

Once the molds are dry and ready, add the slabs and clamp them down to the molds.

Step 10: Step 8: Seal the Edges

Next, I sealed the live edge of the wood using a thin coat of epoxy (this is optional, but helps prevent bubbles from forming or excess resin from being absorbed into the wood). I let that sit for about 4 hours before beginning my deep pour.

Step 11: Step 9: Prep the Deep Pour

Use a deep pour epoxy resin system that allows pouring up to 1″ at a time. I tinted the resin using a black acrylic paint and a metallic pigment.

Step 12: Step 10: Pour the Resin

This is the fun part! Pour your deep pour resin into your molds. I also used a small torch to remove any bubbles from the level before letting it sit.

Allow it time to sit and cure by following the instructions on your particular product.

Step 13: Step 11: Remove the Table Tops

Once the table tops have cured, remove them from the molds by unscrewing the molds and prying the melamine boards away from the tops with a chisel.

Step 14: Step 12: Sand & Mark Your Boards

Next, sand and flatten your slabs with a sander. This doesn't need to look perfect yet, it just needs to be flat enough to begin marking and planning final cuts. I marked my cuts with the same table tops I used earlier.

Step 15: Step 13: Cut Our Your Table Tops

I cut out my table tops using a jig saw. I then cleaned up the edges with a router and a flush trim bit.

Step 16: Step 14: Sand & Finish

After cutting out the table tops, I sanded them from 120 grit to 400 grit and finished them with a wood finish.

Step 17: Step 15: Add the Legs

Last step is to add the legs (I used legs from an old table set) and celebrate!

If you want more details on the table I upcycled for this project, make sure to check out my video and visit my blog (!

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