Respite: Modular Inexpensive Container Housing

Hello everyone!

Thank you for clicking on my first Instructable. I'm Michael and I am a 12th-grade student in Miami, Florida. On my way to school every morning, I use 87th avenue and cross Coral Way (24th St). I have noticed that the southeast end of that intersection is often home to homeless persons. Yes, the sidewalk. While the greenery offers some shade, it does not offer much protection against the harsh Florida sun and the trees in no way ameliorate the sordid conditions. This is no way to live. This led me to think of what can be done. Homeless shelters exist but they are small in size and in numbers. My idea derived from an email that contained a link to this challenge.

Shipping containers!

Shipping containers are extremely versatile. We have seen containers on HGTV turned into tiny houses and on this site, NFL star James Develin has turned one into a pop-up business venture. The word “pop-up” was my inspiration. Why can't decommissioned shipping containers be repurposed at the end of their lifespan to help the increasing homelessness and displacement crisis? I wanted containers to pop-up in aid of the community. After all, shipping containers are modular. They are meant to be moved around and can be relocated and placed in vital locations, like an underutilized parking lot. A potential site is shown near the intersection I talked about in a birds-eye image above. Their nature of holding goods and materials, and many times their weight when the containers are stacked, makes them a safe and strong choice when there are minimal cutouts to the exterior walls. However, my idea had some logistical challenges I had to overcome. Because I intend these containers to be moved and repurposed as and where needed as zoning permits, I had to find a way to make them sustainable and completely off the grid. However, they can be connected to utilities when possible. In the Miami heat, I had to find ways to naturally cool the container and ways to heat it in the winter if this idea were to make more than a local impact. My idea, which is completely powered off the grid because of the solar panels, water collection and water recycling, and composting toilet, can be easily moved from location to location. You can move them to areas with more need and relocate them as changes occur. The containers can also be connected to the grid. One can stand alone by itself but there is nothing preventing the creation of a shipping container community. Their use is also not limited to sheltering the homeless.

I focus on housing the homeless for the rest of this intractable; however, I wouldn't want these shipping containers just to be limited to the homeless. These containers can be mobilized to shelter people displaced by natural disasters and unimaginable events. Last June (2021), the unexpected partial collapse of Champlain Towers South, unfortunately, resulted in deaths and injuries but it also resulted in the displacement of hundreds of people and the mobilization of search and rescue teams from throughout the nation and abroad. Families were forced to take shelter in crowded tents. From an interview with a chief firefighter, through the ACE Mentor Program, I learned that because of the COVID-19 pandemic there were some docked idle cruise ships that housed some of the search and rescue teams but many still had to live in a tent despite the rain. A fleet of these containers could have been repurposed to house the firefighters and aid in the responses to future tragedies. Furthermore, this affordable home is perfect for anyone who would like to garner a sense of ownership inexpensively and free up their finances to focus on other things you may value more like traveling.

Although I am confident in my idea, I had to find ways to make the previously said, cost-effective solutions that could be repurposed or recycled into something else if the whole concept does not work to prevent suitable materials from ending in landfills.

I’ve divided this Instructables into two parts. Part 1 consists of the CAD and design choices while Part 2 focuses mostly on the physical model building. 

Please read: If this is a bit confusing, it is because I initially began designing a home where homeless persons can reside temporarily for free until they get their life back in order; but, the inside of the container is a blank canvas and as I have designed it, it is an actual home one or two people can live in. Or you can modify it to fit 2-3 bunk beds by removing the lifting bed, the dining table, and part of the kitchen and it will work great for humanitarian missions. It can be a home office. It can be a shed or workshop. The possibilities are really endless.

Disclaimer: I used free to download Revit families that are all linked below under the supplies section. I did modify some of the downloaded free-to-use families.

Thank you AutoDesk and James Develin for this opportunity. I also am very grateful for the ACE Mentor Program of America that introduced me to this contest and Instructables.

Supplies

Container Components:

• 20' container
• CMU blocks for foundation
• Impact windows
• Doors
• Steel reinforcement
• PVC pipes
• CPVC pipes
• Reverse osmosis water filtration
• 2x point of use water heaters
• Water collection tank
• Gutters
• 12 and 14 gauge electrical Romex wire
• Fasteners for wire
• Wire nuts
• Light fixtures
• Ultra-thin recessed lights
• Electrical boxes
• Electrical outlets
• Electrical switches
• Fuse box
• Electrical conduit
• Tesla Powerwall
• Inverter (if not using Powerwall)
• Solar panels
• Mini-Split air conditioning
• Soy-based recycled plastic spray foam insulation
• Wood/Steel for framing
• Plywood
• Drywall
• Baseboards
• Salvaged kitchen cabinets
• Reclaimed wood for counters
• Microwave
• Propane range
• Range hood
• Refrigerator/Freezer
• Tile
• Grout
• Shower pan
• Shower curtain holder and curtains
• Vanity
• Mirror
• Composting toilet
• Fan for composting toilet
• Sinks
• Faucets
• Green roof
• Ladder
• Parapet
• Wood burning fireplace (optional)
• Smoke Alarms
• Silicone
• Elevated Bed system
• Primer
• Paint
• Furniture
• Shelves

Downloads Link:

Water collection tank: arcat.com

Solar panels: revitcity

Electric panel: revitcity

Tesla Powerwall: bimstore.co

Outdoor lights: market.bimsmith.com

Exterior door: bimstore.co

Awning: revitcity

Planters: revitcity

Mini Split: mepcontent.com

Heat pump: mepcontent.com

Shower Head: revitcity

Curtain: revitcity

Flood light: revitcity

Microwave: revitcity

Mirror: revitcity

Lights used in electrical plan: Google Drive

Physical Model Materials:

Materials:

• Poster Board
• Foam Board
• Cardboard
• Grass/Moss sheet
• Wire
• Paper Mache paste
• Newspaper/recycled or old paper
• Sticker paper
• Purchased Etsy textures:
• Oak floors
• White Herringbone Subway Tile
• White Hex Mosaic Tile
• Wallpaper
• Purchase includes the right to use
• Door
• Windows
• Spray Paint
• Acrylic Paint
• Laminate countertop sample
• Tomato sauce jar
• Old t-shirt
• Fishing line

Tools:

• X-Acto Knife
• Straight Edge
• Cutting mat
• Hot glue gun
• Square (optional but highly recommended)
• Paintbrush
• Drill
• Drillbits
• Toothpick

Convert the Fusion360 files to .sat to import into Revit.

Step 1: Brainstorming

Rough sketches allowed me to visualize the general layout and what would and would not fit within the size constraints. With this in mind I decided to create the 2nd sketch.

Step 2: Part 1: CAD Model

Floor plan shown

Step 3: Revit

Open a blank Revit architectural template. I prefer imperial units so I opened an imperial architectural template.

Step 4: Create Levels

Create the levels that will serve as the constraints for the components of your design. Place them at the heights you'd like and rename them.

Step 5: Creating the Container

I will not go too much into this step as I used this amazing tutorial from Youtube to create the container.

The side with the door is not shown because that side will have no doors and will be permanently shut once the interior walls are made.

Step 6: Interior Walls, Doors, and Windows

1. Create the interior walls
2. Go to the "Architecture" Ribbon and click "Wall: Architectural"
3. Click "Generic 5""
4. Click "Edit type"
5. Click "Duplicate"
6. Rename
7. Alter as desired
8. Press "Apply" and then "OK"
9. Place the walls along the edges of the container. Change the "Location line" settings as needed.
10. Place doors and windows. Load in the desired sizes and styles. Because we have two walls I placed the doors on the exterior walls and then created openings using the wall opening tool.
11. You may wish to create the interior ceiling at this point.

Real Construction:

1. Use a grinder to cut out the walls of the container and reinforce the openings through the creation of welded steel frames.
2. Install the doors, windows, and vents. Make sure you create water and air-tight seals.
3. Paint to prevent rusting of container walls
4. Install wood/steel studs along the roof and walls + frame any other walls
5. Run electrical wiring for lights, outlets, and fixtures.
6. Remember outlets by the bed, living area, kitchen, and even a technology/wifi area
7. Wiring for shower and kitchen local water heaters and composting toilet fan
8. Wiring for Mini-Split
9. Run plumbing
10. The shower and kitchen+bathroom sinks drain into the gray water tank that can be reused
11. Clean nonpotable water that will be harvested from the green roof will go into the kitchen sink to wash dishes and into the bathroom for a shower and into sinks to wash hands. The water may be made potable if a reverse osmosis system is installed.
12. Run refrigerant coils for the Mini-Split + drain line
13. Soy-based recycled spray foam application
14. Drywall + priming (Make sure to use fire-rated drywall in the kitchen and mold-rated drywall in the bathroom)
15. Install flooring (not in the bathroom yet)

Notes:

The purpose of the interior studs is to allow space for the soy-based recycled plastic spray foam, electrical wiring, and plumbing, and gives something to fasten the drywall onto. The spray foam is extremely important as it helps keep the container significantly cooler and helps dampen exterior noise, specifically rain. In combination with the green roof, the container should require very little electricity to cool.

Step 7: Green Roof

1. Go to the Top of the Container level
2. Create the parapet using walls. Make sure to leave an opening for access.
3. Create floor
4. Duplicate one to alter
5. rename
6. Change thickness and material
7. Add vegetation
8. Install gutters
9. For this, I had to create a false roof. I achieved this by setting its thickness to 1/16" and altering the material to air. This allowed me to have a roof from which I could have access to place the gutters.
10. Install the gray water and water collection tank

Notes:

The green roof is a vital part of our design as it helps keep the container cool, absorbs carbon dioxide from the environment, and produces fresh oxygen. In combination with the spray foam, the container should be able to be maintained at only a few degrees above ambient temperature without AC on even if placed in direct sunlight. The green roof also insulates the sound of the water when it rains because it is unbearable to be in a metal box during torrential rains because every drop is amplified.

It is best if the green roof implements native succulent plants with shallow roots but you can also use it as a vegetable garden if you use a thick 8" growing medium. I would plant a lot of zucchini because they are very prolific and zucchini is very healthy and filling. I would also grow peppers, tomatoes, herbs, and other vegetable plants. Fruit trees should not be planted because of the roots.

Step 8: Foundations and Steps

This does not necessarily have to be done in this order and would probably best be done last or first depending on whether you are building this on or off-site. I intend that the container would be lifted up using CMU blocks to prevent water and moisture damage.

Creating foundation:

1. Add new elevations we missed earlier. Reference image.
2. Open Site plan.
3. Select Wall: Architectural, selected desired wall type.
4. Change bottom and top constraints as shown in the image.
5. Place base supports.

Creating steps:

1. Click stairs under the Architecture, Circulation panel.
2. Specify the bottom and top constraints as well as desired width.
3. Click to create

Notes:

At this point, I decided to add the parking lot and some scenery. I did not include the steps to this because this tutorial is about the container. After this point, I focus more on how to create the container than I do on creating the Revit model.

Step 9: Electrical Systems

Now that the structure of our container is complete it is time to install the solar panels along the side. With the solar panels installed you are able to connect it to the battery backup and to the electrical panel.

Inserting the solar panels:

1. Press "Place a Component"
2. Press "Edit Type"
3. Press "Load..."
4. Press “Sustainable Design" and then "Solar Panel"
5. Place as desired

The solar panels can be tilted as desired as necessary to optimize performance. Or they can be laid flat.

Inserting the outlets:

1. Press "Place a Component"
2. Press "Edit Type"
3. Press "Load..."
4. Press “Electrical Power"
5. Press "Terminals"

Electrical Consumption:

Electric Components:

• Refrigerator: 700 Watts
• Water heater: 1440 Watts each (2x)
• Microwave: 700 Watts
• Mini Split: Max 920 Watts (More likely 500-700W)
• Laptop + phone: 100 Watts
• Wifi: 100 Watts
• Lights: 105 Watts
• Exterior lights: 20 Watts
• Composting toilet fan: 80 Watts
• Range Hood: 70 Watts

MAX: 5,675 Watts

Almost always running: 

• Refrigerator:700 Watts
• Mini Split: 500-920 Watts Note: turns on and off throughout the day
• Composting toilet fan: 80 Watts
• Some outlets: 100 watts

Calculations were done using https://www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-size

The 23.6 SEER mini split uses 650W in a medium setting and would probably run 8 hours a day, probably less but depends on the exterior temperature, the desired interior temperature, where the container is placed, etc. This results in a 1.1kW system being needed to run AC day and night on battery.

The refrigerator is our largest sustained energy hungry device at 700 watts. The refrigerator solely requires a 3.5kW system to run all 24/hr. BUT this is wrong. A refrigerator doesn't actually run the entire day. A refrigerator runs approximately 8 hours each day to cool your food. This results in a demand of 1.2kW.

Lights and outlets will demand only around 200 watts or 0.2 kW

Composting toilet: 128 watts or 0.128 kW

Running the water heaters for an hour straight will only require around 300W or 0.3kW.

Wifi 24/7 will use 500W but assuming it is turned on when during the day and off while sleeping, that results in 300W or 0.3 kW demanded.

The microwave was accounted for when we rounded up because the microwave runs for only a few minutes.

Total system demand: 3.3kW (overestimation)

Therefore, I estimate we need a 3.3kW solar system to power the container through the day and charge the battery. This is about 8 100W solar panels. This is dependent on positioning and sunlight hours. My estimates were done using 5 peak solar hours although the value for Miami is actually a bit higher. The Tesla Powerwall has a maximum output of 30 sustained Amperes. That should be enough as long as everything is not running at once. 

Notes:

I didn't like how the Revit solar panels looked so I downloaded a family from the internet instead.

There is so much variation and creative freedom with this step that is best to explore through Revit and try different methods.

You should insert the recessed lighting at this point because you have to cut into the drywall unless you had already drilled the openings using a 4 1/4" hole saw. This can be messy but can be done at any stage as long as you have laid out the electrical wiring.

I created the electrical plans after the model had been entirely completed. This was my first electrical plan in Revit so I used this video for reference.

The electrical plans are a bit of an organized mess. There are approximately 13 different breakers in the panel which results in a mess. Certain items such as the water heaters, microwave, refrigerator, and range should be on their own breaker. Other items like the lights don't have to, but I wanted to optimize the electrical panel so the battery could prioritize certain circuits.

Feel free to add a doorbell but it seems redundant given the size and shape of the home.

Step 10: Kitchen

1. Install repurposed kitchen cabinets
2. Install reclaimed wood countertop
3. Install sink
4. Install point of use water heater (beneath the sink in cabinet) and faucet
5. Install reverse osmosis water filter (beneath the sink in the cabinet)
6. Install hood (vent outside through wall)
7. Install propane range
8. Install refrigerator/freezer

Notes:

Plumbing plans are shown in step 13. I used this to learn how to create plumbing plans.

I loaded these components in Revit, placed them in their location, and then created the plumbing plans after the bathroom was complete.

To find the appliances located the "specialties equipment" and then look for "domestic."

The 24" range hood vents to the outside through the wall. Cabinets extend over the refrigerator and range. However, cabinets are optional. You can use shelves instead or attach hooks for pots and pans.

You can add a dishwasher if you'd like but I rather have the storage space.

Step 11: Bathroom

1. Install shower pan
2. Tile
3. Tip: Because you need very little you may be able to get leftovers from big stores for little to nothing. This also helps repurpose material that otherwise would be discarded because no one else is going to buy only 2 or 3 boxes of a tile.
4. Install composting toilet
5. Install ventilation fan
6. Install vanity, sink, and faucet. Hang mirror.
7. Install localized water heater.
8. Install showerhead and drain cap
9. Install shower curtains
10. Finishing touches (towel racks, toilet dispensers, etc.)

Notes:

It might be a good idea to install a water pump to increase the amount of water pressure because our system is gravity fed.

The water heater can also be placed under the vanity.

Step 12: Finishing Touches

Bed System (created in Fusion360):

1. Install the bed hoist
2. Place mattress
3. Create table beneath
4. Screw cut sections of 2 x 4 lumber into the wall on the studs to support the weight of the bed and person when lowered.

Notes:

The inspiration for this comes from Sito Cheng. He has multiple public YouTube videos where he addresses how he turned a garage storage system into a raising bed system that maximizes storage. Here are his videos:

https://youtu.be/_yRt8sumOFI

https://youtu.be/h9cgRf9v_oI

Quick tip on Fusion360: I found that you can entire equations for dimensions. Super helpful since it means you don't have to use a calculator.

Real Construction:

• Paint
• Baseboards
• Indoor/outdoor lighting
• Electrical outlet plates
• Smoke alarms
• Shelves
• Storage solutions

Step 13: Overview

We did it!

While this is not my most extravagant design, I think it encompasses what I had envisioned for this project. Using second-hand, repurposed materials, and donations (labor and physical) allows us to cut down on costs in an underfunded area which allows us to have a greater impact on our communities because fewer costs mean we can create more housing to help the homeless. Or shopping around through sites where people put used goods for very cheap to free can help you reduce costs too.

Above there is an image of my vision for this project. Serendipitously in the same shopping center where I had envisioned this project were plopped several 20’ long containers in a Publix parking lot. My main concern would be how awkward random shipping containers placed around the city would appear but after this, I am very confident in the viability of the design. These are just standard shipping containers that have been placed on the lot and do not look very out of place. Seeing this allowed me to see the scale in which this design can be employed and how a container interacts with the surrounding environment. They can be placed individually and scattered as needed or you can place many of them together to create a container housing village.

How we are able to be completely off the grid:

My inspiration for being completely off the grid derived from motor coaches and tiny homes.

I immediately knew for power, solar panels were the best option. In sunny Florida, plenty of electricity would be generated. Other forms of renewable energy would not be as effective, like harnessing the wind, and that would result in unwanted noise pollution. Because solar energy is not generated all throughout the day and night or production fluctuates, it is necessary to have a battery, such as the Tesla Powerwall, to allow the air conditioning to run, refrigerator, microwave, power lights, charge devices, composting toilet fan, and more.

For water, I wanted to repurpose the rainfall and the water the inhabitant uses. The gutters and the green roof made it easy to collect rainwater in a collection tank. In a separate tank (gray water tank), water from the sinks and the shower can be collected and this can be reused for irrigating your exterior vegetable garden or for showering and cleaning.

Sewage was my largest concern. I did not want to have to make sure pipes were at the correct incline so gravity would push the waste into a septic tank... a septic tank that would also eventually need to be emptied. This is why I decided on a composting toilet. The composting toilet eliminates the need for a 3" drain and a septic tank because there is a gray water tank. The composting toilet has two bins, one that can simply be drained and another that can be discarded in the trash or made into compost to feed plants. However, this meant a fan was needed to circulate air outside and that draws continuous power.

Because an electric range uses so much electricity and we have no natural gas connection, I decided on a range fueled by a 20 lbs propane tank so that it would not require additional plumbing or strain the solar panels.

For WIFI something like Starlink works well because fast wifi speeds are available through a satellite and not through a coaxial or fiber optic cable. A satellite allows you to have wifi anywhere.

Structure:

The structure is mostly comprised of a 20' long x 8' wide x 9' 6" container. The container rests on cinder blocks (CMU) located along the corners and the center perimeter. Atop the container, a parapet was designed to house the green roof. The green roof serves as a water filtration system and decreases the effects of the beating sun on the interior. This leads to a cooler interior and reduced energy consumption which allows us to be completely off the grid. There is a built-in ladder on the right side for access to the roof. A column stems over the green roof and supports a wide array of solar panels. Beside the solar panels is an entrance for electrical lines that leads to the meter and electrical panel. On the front side of the house, there is a 36" exterior outswinging door. Like most components in this project, the style may vary because the components, like this door, should come from donations or be bought second-hand where styles are limited. Steps were created for the entrance, which is a bit high as a result of the CMU foundation and false floor to accommodate plumbing. Overhead the door there is an awning to offer rain and sun protection. To its sides, there are two LED wall lights to illuminate the night. Furthermore, in the front, there are two solar-powered motion-activated floodlights to each end and one in the back to create a sense of home and security. Gutters surround the perimeter and collect water that does not get absorbed by the green roof. 3 large casement windows (subject to availability, again) offer egress out of the container to be up to code. Planters, not attached to the structure, are also seen outside and can be used to grow vegetables or ornamentals. On the back side, there are most of the utilities, there is a small fan that ventilates the composting toilet, the gray water/water collection tanks, the electrical panel, the Tesla Powerwall, and the mini split outdoor unit. The mini split is mounted on the wall although it can be placed on the roof. It is not ideal to have it on the ground because for transportation, it would have to be uninstalled and the refrigerant would have to be replaced when installed again. The Tesla PowerWall, which stores electricity produced by the solar panels, is also shown on this side beside the electrical panel. The water collection tank is rated at 1,000 gallons and is elevated using cinder blocks to increase the potential energy and increase water pressure. A pump may be needed.

The solar panels, steps, awning, and water tanks are intended to be disassembled for transportation and for future repurposing.

Interior:

The inside of the container is framed using 5" walls to allow for electrical, plumbing, and soy-based recycled plastic spray foam to be placed. A 6" sub floor was created to accommodate plumbing drains and electrical wire in the container. The floor shown is laminate but it may be porcelain or ceramic tile depending on what is available. Although not shown, my vision for the lighting is ultra thin recessed lighting (linked, step 14.)

Kitchen:

Unlike many homes of this size, this home has a full-size refrigerator and freezer combo. To the side of the refrigerator, there is a range fueled by a 20 lbs propane tank to avoid the depletion of the Tesla Powerwall so that essential equipment like the refrigerator and air conditioner never run out of power. Additionally, there is a full-size pantry that offers a lot of storage. Part of the design is upper cabinets, a stainless steel sink (can be different), and reclaimed wood countertops (can be used stone or a laminate). In the sink base cabinet, there is a point of use water heater and reverse osmosis filtration system to filter water.

Dining Room/Bed Area:

The dining room doubles as the sleeping area. Unlike many tiny homes, the container does not have a loft so space is limited. Increasing the height to create a loft also did not seem like a viable option. Space limitations led me to opt for a system where the bed is lowered when in use but raised during the day when it is not needed. Sito Cheng from YouTube is where I learned about this system. He has public videos where he goes in-depth on how to replicate this system, refer to step 12. The bed is lowered and raised similar to how a curtain is closed and opened by twisting a rod. When the bed is lowered it rests on the table and on supports drilled on the wall studs. This makes sure the system is not overwhelmed by the weight. When the bed is raised, there is plenty of space and storage beneath. The wrap-around bench allows for at least 4 people to sit (more if you add chairs) and has drawers that pull out.

Bathroom:

The bathroom is entered through a 30" walkway enclosed using a curtain rod and curtain. This allows enough space for a wheelchair to enter. The shower is 3' 6" x 2' 6" and is partially closed using a glass pane. A curtain can be used instead but will require a ledge. The shower has no ledge and allows a wheelchair to easily roll though. A composting toilet is smaller than the standard toilet in the Revit model. A point of use water heater is located to the left of the shower. On the opposite end of the bathroom is the composting toilet which has two bins, one that can simply be drained and another that can be discarded in the trash or made into compost to feed plants. This eliminated the need for a drain. There is no reason to fear the composting toilet will smell because there is a continuously running ventilation fan on the exterior. Sandwiched between the toilet and shower are the vanity and mirror.

Just to give you an idea, each final render took anywhere from 40 minutes to 16 hours for the thumbnail (which I ended up redoing). The average render time was about 3-4 hours.

Step 14: Estimate

The estimate above is for the shipping container home as shown in the renders. However, the estimate was calculated using brand-new materials. However, by recycling secondhand materials that may be free or heavily discounted, we are able to save around 60% in construction costs. It is unlikely that we get any discounts on the container, Powerwall, and solar panels because all these components are facing high demand and are in low supply due to supply chain shortages. My focus is on reusing good products that the owners may not want anymore to prevent them from ending up in a landfill rather than buying new so which reduces cost and environmental impact. The project costs a total of $35,530.42 to create. Repurposing materials, we are able to lower the cost to $23,219.37 which is high but... Solar panels and batteries are expensive. However, it is expected that solar panels decrease in cost in the United States following the invocation of the Defense Production Act and a freeze on Chinese solar tariffs. The Tesla Powerwall is expensive but necessary to power the refrigerator and AC through the night. You can look into cheaper batteries but keep in mind you will need to buy a 3,000W inverter.

Despite the high initial startup cost, land is the only recurring expense and maintenance is limited to water filters, air filters, and composting toilet medium. There really isn't much to do after the container home has been built unless you want to relocate it. No electric or water bills. You only need propane tanks and trash collection.

I didn't include scheduling for this project because it is a small and fast-paced project. The project can be constructed offsite and within a month.

Step 15: Sustainability + Compliance

LEED:

While designing I always wanted to make sure the structure achieved the highest possible LEED rating. In this case, Platinum. We did this by implementing several different solutions like:

• Green Roof
• Soy-based recycled plastic spray foam
• Reducing heat island effect
• Reduced water consumption
• Rainwater management
• Renewable energy production
• Planing for deconstruction and using second-hand materials
• Lots of natural light to decrease artificial light use
• Energy-efficient appliances

Checklist download

ADA:

This was a difficult aspect to manage as I was designing. My main struggle with ADA compliance was the bathroom entryway. I wanted a wide doorway that would accommodate a wheelchair without compromising the design too much with a door swing. For this reason, I decided to create a 30” opening that will fit an approximately 27” wheelchair and used a curtain system to close off the bathroom. The curtain reduces construction costs in doors, hardware, and framing while also making it easier to open for someone sitting in a wheelchair. The shower also does not have a ledge to allow a wheelchair to easily enter the shower. Guide bars can be added. A ramp can also be retrofitted in the entrance for the front door.

Step 16: Part 2: Model Building

Step 17: Creating the Base

I decided to create the model on a 1" = 1' scale. This scale makes the model big enough to see and makes scaling dimensions really easy. This is also 1:12 which is a common dollhouse scale so it allows you to use dollhouse building materials.

To begin with, we are going to

1. Cut a 20" x 8" cardboard rectangle.
2. Create the bottom edges with forklift pockets and the corner posts of the container.
3. Forklift pockets are supposed to be 69" apart. I placed them about 2.5 inches away from the center of the container. It is not included in the picture but I glued 4 supports, 1 to each side, of the forklift pockets before gluing the second piece of cardboard over. I used a flat blade to carve the holes in the foam.

The forklift pockets allow us to save a lot of money in transportation because renting a forklift is extremely much cheaper than renting a crane.

Step 18: Paper Mache

YOU CAN SKIP THIS STEP

This was completely unnecessary. A better effect could be created by wrapping the armature with poster board. However, the paper mache did make the model very robust.

What I had previously written and thought:

This wasn't really a step I had in mind. I really really wanted to avoid paper mache because it is sticky, messy, and extremely time consuming. However, the previous step didn't exactly go as planned and paper mache allowed me to salvage what I had done.

Making The Paste:

To make the paste I mixed water and Elmer's Art Paste and whisked them together until I achieved a goopy snot-like mixture. You can use a flour, salt, and water mixture but I like to stick to the Art Paste because it is stronger and dries clear.

Paper Macheing:

1. Once you have the paste, cut your recycled paper into strips of varying lengths and thicknesses. I used newspaper and some brown packing paper that came with a package.
2. Dip the paper into the paste mixture and ensure it is completely soaked.
3. Remove the excess by squeezing the paper between two of your fingers.
4. Lay it on the armature (the model we've built) and press it firmly to ensure it fully adheres to the surface. I used some larger pieces of paper for the wider areas and some small pieces for the tighter areas around the corner posts.
5. Once the first newspaper layer dried, I noticed there were some pieces sticking up. To fix this, you can just dip your fingers in the paste and drench the dry area that is sticking up to adhere it.
6. Next, I applied two layers of the brown recycled paper. I waited for it to dry between layers although you don't have to wait.

Step 19: Exterior Walls

Corrugations:

The corrugations took some tinkering to perfect. I knew they could be created with paper but I wasn't sure how until I started experimenting. I found that folding a paper 2 times on one side and then 2 sides on the other side created the corrugations I wanted. Look at the 3rd picture if this doesn't make sense.

1. Cut the poster board to the desired height (approximately 9 inches)
2. Don't cut lengthwise because the folding will increase the surface area and it won't be long enough
3. Create a 6mm strip using foam. This is a lot easier than measuring 6mm forever.
4. Start scoring (lightly cutting the board with the blade) and folding to create the corrugated pattern. Use the 6mm strip to get the scaled dimensions of the corrugations
5. Cut the foam board to the length between your corner posts and to a 9-inch height
6. Glue the corrugated poster board pattern to the foam

Step 20: Doors and Windows

I was prepared to make my own doors and windows but I decided to check Amazon because I knew I was building at a doll house scale. I loved how these looked and decided it would be a good idea to save the time. I also didn’t have any balsa wood so mine wouldn’t have been that good.

Before I adhered the walls to the corner posts I cutout the holes for the doors and windows. I traced the windows and doors to get the size of the cutouts. I made sure to check the fit of the doors and windows after I cut the poster board but before I cut the foam.

I began with a bronze spray paint to paint the doors and windows but switched to a black. After the model have been painted on the inside I placed the doors and windows.

Once the model has been painted on the exterior and interior, the doors and windows fit perfectly by compression.

Step 21: Paint

I initially painted over the armature with regular house paint I had leftover and that was a mistake. The moisture from the paint made the cardboard warp and I had to apply weights to flatten it while it was still wet.

I decided to spray paint the rest after I glued the walls using hot glue. The smooth surface of the tape made it difficult for the hot glue to bond so I placed painters tape over it. Spray painting will also be easier because of the corrugations.

Step 22: Interior Components

In this step, I made the interior components using foam. For the kitchen countertop, I used a laminate countertop sample I had. It was really difficult to cut so it chipped. I made all the components for the interior by adding or carving into foam. I painted them to add details.

Be careful with your dimensions, I accidentally made the bench too tall and I had the cut off the bottom portion.

For the raised bed system, I made the base out of a sheet of foam and then created a scaled mattress. Afterward, I wrapped the mattress with an old t-shirt I no longer use. I made an H support system like the one in the digital model. I drilled a hole in each corner to allow the fishing line to pass and tied it to the bottom of the mattress base. Lastly, I tied all the lines together and the bed is raised and lowered by pulling up or releasing the line.

Step 23: Interior Walls + Paint + Floors

Before I began painting I cut out the interior wall. I didn’t glue it in place just yet. Then I began painting the interior walls. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE AS MUCH TAPE FROM THE INTERIOR AS YOU CAN. I began painting without removing the tape and I had to cut it out with my craft knife and remove it. I used painter's tape and it clearly showed through the paint because it was painter's tape. Perhaps I could have left it if it were masking tape but I did not have any. Even after removing the tape, I was not satisfied with how the paint looked, I should have taped the interior so it wouldn’t have been painted. Instead, I wrapped the interior walls in paper and even decided to do two feature walls with wallpaper.

After, I stuck the wooden floor textures to the floor. I printed the scaled wooden floor texture and the other textures onto sticker paper to make the application easy. I did the same for the tile.

After, I glued in place the interior wall already painted and with the tile. Sorry about the lack of pictures.

Step 24: Roof

I wanted the roof to be detachable to see the interior. To achieve this I simply glued some thin foam strips along the top edges of the walls to hold the roof in place. I cut a foam piece to fit in place and glued the moss on top. I also pierced the wire that wrapped the moss through the foam to create a handle to pull the roof up. Lastly, I made gutters that went alongside the perimeter of the roof to collect water. I spray painted them black.

I also made an awning for above the door like in the digital model.

Step 25: Off Grid Components

I always go through my recycling bin whenever I am model building.

For the water tank, I used a glass tomato sauce jar. Ideally, I would have painted it white but I did not have white spray paint. It would be stacked with cinderblocks but here I just used scrap pieces of foam.

I just used foam to create the battery pack, electrical panel, and mini-split heat pump and added detailing with pencil. I tried the mini split on the roof but ultimately placed it on the back wall.

Step 26: Model Overview

The model is done! I love the views where the camera is inside the model. It really immerses me in the design.

I would have loved to be able to 3D print furniture, appliances, more detailed gutters, windows, and more however I don’t have a 3D printer, a wood shop, or fancy technology. Hopefully keeping this basic allows many of you to follow along.

Step 27: Business Pitch

We have a solid plan but we still need to garner funding! It is time to build a board to pitch to investors, philanthropists, the community, zoning, code enforcement, and local city council members that we should help our homeless community.

To create this business pitch, I created a board just as I had in my local ACE chapter using Adobe Illustrator. While it may look complex, it is just a 36" x 24" board with some outlined boxes and lines to create divisions and edges, some text, and images thoughtfully placed. Typically a business pitch would not have this much writing as most of it would be spoken by the presenter.

The first board is downgraded in quality to be within the maximum file size.

Thank you for reading through my first very long Instructable. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions in the comments section.