Introduction: Restoration of a 1957 Hupp - Perfection 2 Burner Kerosene Stove

About: Technical Editor for two magazines. Software tester for the computer controlled electronic brakes of Locomotives.

I had looked high and low for a small 2-burner Kerosene stove with the 1931 "High Power" burners. Back in the day most families tended to purchase larger 3 - 5 burner stoves, so the 2-burners are rare.

I finally acquired a rare 2 burner stove off of the national Craig's List. I got the seller to ship it to me and when it arrived, I discovered it was a 1957 Hupp Era 2-burner "Economy" stove in desperate need of restoration.

Perfection Industries, Inc. merged with Hupp Corporation in September, 1955. This lead to a cheapening of Perfection's products. But because the stove was painted and not porcelain, the restoration would be simpler.

Step 1: Here Is How I Received It.

I bet the seller was glad he got rid of it!

Obviously the stove had sat with Kerosene in it until it dried out. Note the glass reservoir adapter plate.(More on this later) Also note the drippy brush painted black on the legs! The burners look like they have a lot of hours on them, judging by the amount of dried Kerosene on them.

Step 2: Disassembly, the Burner's Wicks

The wicks were rusted inside the High Power Burners and when I finally got them loose and removed them, I discovered they were brand new. But since they sat in dried Kerosene/water, they must be discarded.

Step 3: Disassembly, the Kerosene Well

The reservoir well was covered with dried Kerosene.

Step 4: Disassembly, the High Power Burners From the Kerosene Feed Pipe.

The Burner clamps were loosened and the Burners were twisted off the Feed Pipe.

Step 5: Restoration, the Burner's Feeds Were Clogged With Rust.

The Feed pipe adapter/seal and the burner fuel inlet were clogged with rust and dried Kerosene.

Step 6: Restoration, Partially Clogged With Rust!

Because the Burners were clogged, I decided to have a look at the Kerosene Feed Pipe Drain. With the Drain Cap removed, I discovered the fuel pipe was half full of rust!

Step 7: Restoration, De-Rusting & De-Kerosening (SP?)

I next re-assembled everything back together, minus the wicks and poured Acetone down the Feed Pipe at the Well. Acetone quickly dissolves dried Kerosene and will also flush the rust out the Feed Pipe Drain.

Step 8: Restoration, "High Power" Burners

With a LOT of scrubbing and polishing with Simichrome Polish, the burners look quite good.

Step 9: Restoration, Re-painting With High Temperature Black

Burner parts were refinished w/1200F VHT Flat Black and the Well and Feed Pipe in 250F VHT Gloss Black.

Step 10: Restoration, Legs

The stoves legs were wet sanded to remove the "brushed" on Black paint and get them back to factory white. The bottom of each leg was coated in Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer because it looks like the stove sat in water for a time. Then finally finished with Rustoleum Porcelain Hard Appliance White enamel, and left to cure for 3 days. (Yes it takes that long to cure. This stuff dries porcelain hard)

Step 11: Restoration, Stove Body

The body was wet sanded. Then painted with VHT 900F on top, 500F inside and 250F everywhere else.

Step 12: Restoration, Re-attachment of the Legs

The legs were re-attached with new replica hardware. Most of the assembly hardware was damaged during dis-assembly. The slots of the oval head screws were deformed, so I purchased new replicas from the local Fastenal store. 50 #27458 10-24X1/2" & 50 #37614 10-24 square nuts cost about $10. Gerber Baby Food containers are just the thing for small parts.

Step 13: Restoration, Kerosene Feed Tube, Burners

The Reservoir Well and Feed Tube were installed in the body and the cleaned and polished Burners were locked and clamped in place.

Step 14: Restoration, Install Wicks, Shrouds, Flame Spreaders, and Chimneys

Vintage 331-X wicks were installed (new wicks are available from, or the factory in Berne, Ind. at Schwartz Mfg.) and new Mica windows were inserted into the Chimneys.

Step 15: Restoration, Stove Grates

The original color of the steel grates was Gray. Not liking Gray, I used "Stove Black" paste to turn them black. It lasts longer than paint does under the intense heat produced.

Step 16: Restoration, Backsplash

I wet sanded the Backsplash, everywhere except around the painted logo. Then, using Rustoleum Porcelain Hard Appliance White enamel, I painted the Backsplash and all around the logo. This left the logo with over-spray on it. I immediately used Q-tips, dipped in alcohol, to go over the outline of the painted logo. This removed the fresh paint from just the letters and triangle. Then I let the Backsplash cure for 3 days. Finally it was installed with new replica bolts.

This completes the restoration.

Step 17: Restoration, Assembly Complete

But with the restoration finished, now what? Only thing left to do is fire it up and see how it burns! This ain't gonna be a museum piece. I intend to use it! Slow cook a pork butt for pulled pork for half a day on low Blue flame for about a quart of fuel. Nothing is cheaper. Just set the flame and come back in 5 hrs.

Step 18: Restoration, Performance Check

I placed a full reservoir on the Well and waited 15 minutes for the wicks to fully soak. Then I lit both burners. Soon I had a nearly perfect high blue flame.

Note: When on high yellow tipped blue flame, output is about 8500 btu's.

Step 19: Addendum

The Hupp vintage Perfection stoves did not use the standard glass jugs, utilized since 1919. The Hupp Jar is a different mold but since they utilized the same Kerosene Well, the Hupp glass jugs required an adapter plate. Thus original Perfection Stove Company jugs or current production Schwartz spun steel jugs will work.