I have many fond memories of my Amiga 2000 computer in the late 80's. In an effort to relive it's glory days with a retro vibe, I have created a 36%-ish scale Amiga 2000. And, so it would have something to hold it down, I made a 50%-ish scale 1084-like monitor for it. Why isn't everything the same scale? Didn't really care, just made things as small as I could ;). Either way, you get to make a cute little computer with an svga resolution, 4:3 aspect ratio, sweet stereo speakers, and a display just large enough to actually use it for some light general purpose computer needs like web browsing, watching movies, or even word processing.

I have a multitude of emulators installed on this machine. With the power of the Pi5, I find I can run almost everything from the 90's pretty comfortably. The display's 4:3 aspect ratio displays the games in their intended format and resolution, increasing the enjoyment of revisiting my old favorites.

This has been a learning experience for me in my desire to improve my skills with Fusion 360. There are aspects of this design that I have since re-imagined in other projects and improved upon. I might update this design at some point, but it's reasonably robust and makes a nice looking desk decoration.

Supplies

Raspberry Pi 5 CM~$90

Raspberry Pi 5 power supply~$15

Raspberry Pi 5 Heatsink~$7.50

Waveshare IO board~$43

1TB NVME SSD~$80

Noctua 40mm 5V PWM fan~$16

Eyoyo 8" monitor~$80

PLA filament~$13

Rubber feet~$6

Power Button~$1/each

Screw Assortment$1/dozen

JST Connectors~$0.20/each

Pi2000_BOM.csv
Download

Step 1: Print the Parts

The prints will consume approximately 1kg of filament. You should have 2 spools, just in case.

Create a build plate in your slicer including 4 button models and 4 screen lock models, the monitor door, and the fan mount. Print with beige matte filament.
Place the wide part of the buttons and screen locks on the build plate and slice and build without supports.
Place the door with the front facing up, with the face parallel to the build plate. The ensures a smooth finish.
Build a single button in red. This is the power button for the monitor. This is optional and you can print all the buttons in beige if desired.
Create a build plate in your slicer that includes the case and lid. Print with beige filament.
Orient the lid so the back is on the build plate. The case portion stays upright. Build with tree supports. With the supports from the build plate only.
Create a build plate with the monitor back. Print with beige filament.
Orient the case so the front is on the build plate. This produces the best finish since none of the bridged areas are visible when the assembly is complete. But, it requires a lot of support material and therefore uses a lot of filament. Build with tree supports enabled.
Create a build plate with the monitor bezel on it.
Orient the bezel so that the face of the bezel is parallel to the build plate. The goal is to avoid any stepping artifacts on the bezel, resulting in a smooth finish. Print using beige filament with tree supports enabled. Enable tree support generation for small overhangs.

Very little clean up work should be required. Care should be taken when cleaning the supports off of the inner bezel area. Be as thorough as you can so the lcd panel will fit snugly against the inside of the bezel.

Step 2:

Case Assembly:

Use self taping M3*6mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm to connect all boards to the case.

1) Attach CM module (heatsink/wifi) to IO Board

2) Attach NVME drive to IO Board

3) Attach IO Board to case - Insert the board diagonally in through the bake of the case to align the holes, then lower the board down onto the standoffs. Make note of how the standoffs align with the board. Use 5 M3x6mm self taping screws to secure the io board to the case.

4) Prepare power button and attach to lid - solder standard pin connectors to the power button leads. Insert the power button in to the 12mm opening on the case and attach. Leave the leads unattached.

5) Attach Wifi antenna to lid - This will tether the case to the lid - use caution not to damage the lead

6) Prepare Fan connector - The Noctua fan pinouts do not match the Raspberry pi pinouts.

a) Buid the JST connector according to the pinout mapping. Small JST build your own connector kits can be found in online stores.

pinout Rapsberry Pi5 PWM fan pinout

Noctua PWM Yellow == +5V == Fan Header Pin 1 Raspberry Pi 5

Blue == PWM == Pin 2

Black == GND == Pin 3

Green == Tach == Pin 4

7) Attach fan to fan mount - Note the direction of air flow and orient the fan towards the CM module and heatsink.

a) Use washers if needed, choose the appropriate screw size for your fan.

8) Attach fan mount to case

a) Use M3*6mm screws to attach fan mount to case.

9) Attach power button and fan connector. Double check jumpers on IO board. Do a power on test prior to closing the case.

10) Close lid - Use a rolling motion close the lid from back to front to avoid breaking small features on the case. You shouldn't have to force anything.

Step 3: Monitor Assembly

Monitor Assembly:

Disassemble Eyoyo lcd case
Remove 4 screws and pry apart face/body parts. Use care when splitting them, there is wiring between the front and rear pieces.
Unplug the speakers from the IO board
Carefully remove the tape and ribbon cable from the IO board
At this point you should be able to seperate the front and back halves. Remove the lcd display panel and set aside.
Gently extract the button pcb from the bezel and set aside.
Remove the IO board and set aside.
Remove the glue and gently pry out the speakers. At this point all of the components should have been removed from the old display case.
Find the wall wart power supply in the monitor supplies and set it aside. All of the cables and other parts are not needed.
Unplug the speakers
Assemble reto monitor
Using 4 M3*6mm screws, attach the IO board to the 4 pylons in the monitor back. The board will be "upside down" so that the IO ports line up with the rear opening.
Place the lcd panel into the monitor bezel
Secure the lcd panel to the bezel using the "screen lock" part. The cam will fit onto the pylon. Rotate it so it has a snug fit, and tighten M3*10mm or M3*12mm screws to secure. Use care not to use too long a screw on the top of the bezel, lest you mar the external finish.
Extend the speaker wire.
Identify the right and left speakers. The speaker connector on the IO board will be on the right side. The short wire pair on the speakers correspond to the right side.
Using a soldering iron, desolder the left speaker wires from the speaker. Strip them and insert approx 6-8 inches of 22 gauge wire. Resolder the new wires to the speaker.
Press the speakers into the speaker mounts. They should fit snugly, but if they are loose then use hot glue to secure them.
Connect the speakers to the IO board.
Place the buttons into the button holes and carefully insert the button pcb into the retention slot in the bezel. Use care not to damage the pcb buttons. Observe that the is space between the pla buttons and the pcb buttons as you slowly press the pcb into place. Test the buttons to make sure they travel freely.
Slide the bezel into the case by fitting the tab and slot at the top first, then rotation the bezel toward the case. Connect the lcd ribbon cable to the IO board. Space is a bit tight, so align the bezel and case in a way to give you the most room to reach in. Secure the ribbon cable to the IO board with the tape that you removed earlier.
Secure the case with 2 M3*10mm screws. Use care not to overtighten so as to avoid splitting the print
Attach the Monitor Door by gently pressing the hinge cutout onto the studs. The door design isn't very robust, and doesn't firmly close. It's a very light duty part, but you could secure with small velcro pads if desired.

At this point the case and Monitor are both assembled. Complete setting them up with an HDMI cable, networking cable, USB accessories, or peripherals of your choice.

Software and Operating system

For simplicity and compatibility, I recommend using the Raspberry Pi OS. Install the operating system onto your storage using instructions on the Raspberry Pi website.

Introduction: Retro Pimiga 2000 Computer