Router Base for Dremel Rotary Tool

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Introduction: Router Base for Dremel Rotary Tool

This is a short instructable on how I built a router base for my Dremel rotary tool. The design is based largely on the precision router base offer by StewMac. This router base is to be used with fine carbide router bits for precision routing required in inlays or freehand engraving in wood. It is made using commonly available hardware along with some 3d printed parts.

Supplies

Materials

  1. 6mm Steel plate - will be used for the base plate.
  2. M10x1.5 Threaded rods two of 10cm each.
  3. M10 nuts six.
  4. A M4 hex bolt and nut - for the tool holder.

Tools

  1. A hacksaw or an angle grinder.
  2. M10x1.5 Thread tap.
  3. 5mm, 9mm and 12mm HSS drill bits along with a drill and centre punch.
  4. 3d printer.

Step 1: Making the Base Plate

The base plate is to be made from the 6mm steel plate. I used stainless steel here as that is what I had but steel will work just as well while being a lot easier on your tools. Print out the template included with this step and use this to mark out the holes to be drilled using a centre punch. A 8.5mm hole is required in order to use the M10 tap but I used a 9 so as it makes it a little easier to tap. Then cut out the base along the lines shown on the template. Clean it up with a file if necessary.

Step 2: 3d Printing the Rest of the Parts

The remaining parts are to be 3d printed from the .stl files included in this step. Two copies of the handle and four of the adjustment knob are to be printed. Note that the holes are slightly undersized and some sanding or filing may be required in order to get everything to go together properly. I printed the parts out of white PLA.

Step 3: Final Assembly

Assemble the router base as shown in the images or the drawing included in the pdf below. The baseplate and a nut are tightened against each other with the handle in between. This gets rid of the slight wobble that comes from using a 9mm dill bit instead of an 8.5mm bit with the M10 tap. A M4 hex bolt and nut is to be used in the tool holders tightening ring.

At this point the router base should be functional. If the base does not move smoothly over your work, check the base to see if one of the threaded rods is sticking out. Polishing the base with some wet 600 grit sand paper followed by some wax does make the base track smoother on wood.

Alright, you're all done by now! Now go make something with it!

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    4 Comments

    0
    Phil B
    Phil B

    6 months ago

    I improvised a router base for a Dremel tool. The vibration caused the tool to slowly come out of the chuck and that caused inaccuracies in what I was doing.

    0
    Gaurav
    Gaurav

    Reply 6 months ago

    When you say that the tool comes out of the chuck, I am not sure if you are referring to the router bit coming out of the handpiece's chuck or the handpiece coming out of the tool holder.
    In case it is the router bit getting loose try using small endmills instead of router bits. I use a 1mm 4flute carbide endmill with a 4mm shank.
    If its the handpiece that is slipping I might have to update the design for the tool holder. My 3d printer makes holes that are quite undersized, thus giving a really tight fit against the handpiece. I forgot other printers might be a little different. Now I am aware of it I shall update the design and so do please check the page again after a couple of days.

    0
    Phil B
    Phil B

    Reply 6 months ago

    This is a photo of the router-style base I made for my Dremel tool. Notice the black circle I added. The bit extends below the bottom surface of the base enough to inlet the top surface of a piece of wood for a piece of 1/8 inch steel Even though I tightened the chuck, the bit worked its way downward over a very few minutes and that resulted in a deeper cut than I planned.

    B757D35B-0343-4D9C-AB9F-2E4E47108B8C.jpeg
    0
    Gaurav
    Gaurav

    Reply 6 months ago

    The only thing I can think of is, you are trying to use a metric router bit with an imperial collet. 1/8" and 3mm shanks do look similar but require different collets. I personally find Dremel's to do well with bits under 2mm. Anything above I prefer using with a palm router.