Introduction: Rustic Farmhouse Table DIY
My wife seen this style table on Pinterest and asked me to make it. I looked over the plans and seen I could maybe improve on it and show more steps to help with those of us who like lots of pictures with builds. This project took about 8 hours not counting time for the stain and polyurethane to dry. So take a look and let me know what you guys/gals think. This is slightly based on Ana White's rustic table.
Step 1: First You Will Need Some Tools
You will need some basic tools to do this build. You can use hand tools but powered tools make everything soooo much easier. Here is a list of the tools you will need and you will see them through out the Instructable.
- 12' Tape Measure (Make sure its good and straight with no bends and use the SAME tape measure for consitancy
- 10" or 12" Miter Saw and/or Skill Saw (I use both)
- Quick Square
- Pencil / Marker / Crayon what ever your comfortable with
- Drill Gun ( More the Better) I use 2 drill and an impact driver so I'm not changing bits out constantly
- Wood Glue (optional but good to use)
- Hand sander with 100 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Two different shade of stain and some clear coat
- Paint Brushes
- Latex Gloves
- Stain Pads
- Kreg Jig helps but not a must
- Sweet Ice Tea ( because everything is better with tea)
- Oh yeah, your going to need screws.. Lots of screws! I used 2 1/2" #8, 3" #10 and 2 1/2" Kreg Screw (Cabinet Screws work good too)
Step 2: Your Gonna Need Some Wood Too!
Pick up the following lumber at your local hardware store or lumber yard. Please try to hand pick your lumber. This way you can pick the best lumber for your desired build. I personally don'y mind blemishes or knots. Try to avoid bowed, twisted or damaged lumber.
- (7) 2 X 4 X 8
- (4) 2 X 8 X 10
- (2) 1 X 4 X 8
Step 3: Lets Get Started. Here Is the Cut List.
Before you start cutting, inspect your lumber for defects and staples. Also try to make your cuts so that the best grain will be shown. Also use a small square to make sure your miter saw is cutting to 90° and make adjustments if needed. Also, most miter saws sit 3 1/2" above your work table. So you can use a scrap 2x4 section for a support board. I use the hold down clamp for every cut as well.
2x4 Cut List:
(4) at 21 1/2"
(4) at 9"
(2) at 36"
(2) at 36" with 45° end cuts
(4) at 32" with 45° end cuts
(4) at 8" with 45° cut on one end
(1) at 43"
(8) at 12" with 45° end cuts
2x8 Cut List:
(5) at 48 1/2"
(2) at 36 1/4"
1x4 Cut List:
(4) at 28"
(2) at 32"
Step 4: Time to Start Putting Together Some "T's"
These look complicated but are very easy to assemble.
- You will need to take the 1x4's you cut at 28" and drill two hole near the center. Next take one of your 10" long 2x4" and assemble a "T" repeat this until you have 4 of them.
Step 5: Turning T's Into I's
Next you will need to take the 2x4's you cut at 21 1/2" and assemble them to your T sections. I applied some wood glue to them to help them stay together over time. Apply a clamp and pre drill then apply four 2 1/2"
screws per each side of T.
You will then need to attach a second T on the opposite end of the 21 1/2" board. Repeat the glue, clamp screw process.
Last, apply a second 21 1/2" length 2x4 on opposite side.
Note: I drilled about 2" from either end of the 10" block for screw placement
Step 6: Making "FANCY" I's
Apply glue to the 1x4 section of your "I" and place the 32" long 2x4 with the 45° cuts on them. I attached them centered as best as possible. I had to use the staple gun to attached the 1/4 to the 2x4 on the ends.
You will need to predrill and run a few 2 1/2 screws into the tops for support
Repeat for bottom section.
Next apply one 36" 2x4 to one ends and one 36" 2x4 with the 45° cuts to opposite ends. The straight cut ends will be used to go under the table top. Use clamps as needed. Again you will need to glue, predrill and screw.
You can apply the 8" 2x4 at this point to your bottom side of the frame
When I cut the 45° ends on my 2x4's I like to leave about a 1/4" flat section because I liked how it looked compared to a sharp edge. This was purely cosmetic
Step 7: Getting Even MORE FANCY
Take your 12" 2x4 and apply glue to the end cuts then align them with base od your "I" they should cover the two of the screw from prior assembly. I placed a few bad nails on each end to hold it in place while I predrill and screwed them on. (I used a bit to round over my predrills, you can also do this with screw bit because it helps sink screw in past flush.
Next predrill 2 holes in each corner of your 12 2x4's and screw in place.
Apply wood putty over holes and let drill overnight. Sand with 100 grit paper, followed by 120 grit the next date till smooth.
After you have cleaned you parts up. You can attached the 2x4 you cut at 43" in to the "slot holes" in the "I" frames. I simply used a mallet to tape them in flush the predrill at crew together.
Step 8: Table Top Assmebly
Take your 2x8 material out and its time to start assembling then table top. I had to use a skill saw since my miter saw was not large enough. After cutting parts, realized saw was dull so I had to sand the edges for a cleaner finish.
If you want to keep you holes hidden, use a Kreg Jig, It works great and is easy to use.
Drill 3 holes evenly spaced one the "ugly side" on each end off all the 2x8's cut at 48 1/2" long. You will need to screw some holes along the length of the board to keep parts from bowing over time.
Attach all your 48 1/2" material together.
Had to do a clean up pass with my skill saw on one end since one of my boards was not to correct length. (always measure twice before you cut)
Next you will need to attach your 36 1/4 sections to the ends. I used the 1x4' I cut at 32" to hold material in place while attached the Kreg screws. I left these boards since I though it would help keep the joint from leaning over time.
TADA a table top is formed. Go over it with sandpaper to smooth it out and remove chips and such.
(NOTE) You can spray water on dents and place a regular clothes iron set on high on it to swell the dent out.
Step 9: TIME TO RUIN YOUR SHIRT, SHOES, SOCKS AND SHORTS
Time for the good stuff. Cause its going to get messy sooner or later so please wear clothes you don't mind throwing away.
I used a lighter red stain for the table top, Early American by Minwax, you can choose what ever color you want.
To contrast this. I used a much darker stain for the bottom, Jacobean by Minwax. Again, you can use any kind you want, or you can even paint it. You will need a foam paint brush hear since it is better at stain application, some latex gloves, ( a hazmat suit if you have on good clothes) and a stain pad or disposable rag.
Brush on the stain in the direction of the wood grain and try not to miss joints, immediately wipe with stain pad to rub the stain into the wood and get an even coat.
( I do this outside on a hot day to help stain dry faster. After applying the stain, enjoy some sweet tea, watch a game read a book or whatever you enjoy for a few hours because you don't want to touch it again until its dry. Repeat this for the frame.
I applied 3 coats of satin clear coat to the table to for a smooth finish.
Step 10: FINAL ASSEMBLY
Time to place the table top on your frame. I attached this with 6 screws underneath the table top. You will need to disassemble this is you put it together in the drive way like I did since my doors aren't this wide. :)
TADA you now have a awesome rustic table to show off to your friends.
You can adjust any of these dimensions to fit the sizes you need. This one is a shorter table because its going in as a breakfast table in our kitchen but you can easily adjust the length to a longer table.
Hope you enjoyed.
Participated in the
Wood Contest 2016