Introduction: Rustic Hammock-Style Wilderness Chair

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Build a hammock style wilderness camp chair fit for a Scoutmaster.  Made from only Logs and Rope, this stout chair will beat any of those flimsy folding camp chairs when it comes to strength and comfort.

So here you are in the middle of the woods far away from the comforts of home.  You've got a campfire to stare at as a make-do substitute for the Telly.  
Unfortunatly, those folding camp chairs just don't provide to the posh Lazy Boy type relaxation that have become a necessity at home but, that's ok... you can adapt - this is camping after all....
UNTIL YOU REALIZE...YOU FORGOT TO PACK ONE OF THOSE FOLDING CAMP CHAIRS! AHHHHH!

When personal comfort is at risk... a whole new panicked sense of self-preservation arises - and the Wilderness Survival  instincts kick-in. 

Remember, stay calm, don't panic, keep a level head and survey your surroundings.  This is no time to be squeemish about being seen in a less than stylish, non-state-of-the-art, inexpensive, heavy, non-folding camp chair.  

In the Bush, an ugly rustic log chair could just make all the difference for your survival.  It may be your only means of getting out alive (while being reasonably comfortable and relaxed of course).

Step 1: The Chair in Action

Time to improvise...

When life gives you (tree) Limbs... make Limb-aid?? or Lounge-aid?? or Leasure-aid??  

What ever you want to call it, nothing will Aid YOUR  tired Limbs more than a comfortable wilderness hammock chair to rest them in?


Step 2: Materials

Rope, Rope, Rope
Logs, Logs, Logs

The netted seat portion of the chair requires a lot of rope to complete!
The exact amount used for this chair  was not measured. The rope came packaged in 150 ft rolls, and at lease 4 or more rolls were used.

A total of  (6) Logs are needed. Each about 7-8 feet in length.

- Two of the logs need to be at least 6" in diameter.  This is so they are large enough to accept a Dovetail cutand still be strong enough to be the main "A" frame of the chair.

- The other four logs can be a smaller - 3 to 4 inches in diameter

Note: Smaller diameter logs are shown for the tying demonstration in the Instructable.

Note: The logs used in this project were pre-harvested. The camp had removed some trees for an activities field and the logs were salvaged from the firewood pile.  
Cutting of live trees solely for the construction of this chair is not endorsed.




Step 3: Form an A-Frame

To create the main "A" frame for for the chair, place three logs along side of each other.  The two outboard logs should be the larger 6" diameter logs.

A Tripod lashing is used to secure the top of the three logs.

Step 4: Tripod Lashing

Start the Tripod lashing by tying one end of the ropearoung one of the outboard large diameter.
logs using a Clove Hitch (knot).

Weave the rope in an over-and-under fashion around the three logs.  This is called WRAPPING.  Be sure to pull the rope tight after each pass.
- Complete at least 3 passes of Wrapping.

Step 5: Fraps

 After completing at least three passes of Wraps, it is time to add Fraps.  Fraps pull the Wraps together and tighten the joint by acting as a wedge between the logs.

Place at least three Fraps between log 2 and 3 and then cross the rope over the center log and add another three Fraps between logs 2 and 1.

Tie another Clove Hitch around an outboard log to secure the end of the rope.

Step 6: Stand the Tripod

 Stand the three logs on end and splay the three legs appart.

The outboard logs (1 & 3) form the main vertical legs of the "A" frame.

The center smaller diameter log forms the trailing Kick-Stand legthat holds up the "A" frame.

Step 7: Dovetail Cuts

Two  Dovetail joints are used to attach the Cross Brace between the chair's main "A" frame legs.

The Cross Brace could have been lashed to the "A" frame but, the Dovetailing adds a bit of structural integrity to the bottom brace of the seat.

To make a Dovetail Joint; make two 45 degree angled cuts about half  way through each of the larger diameter "A" frame legs.

The distance between the bottom of the angled cuts should be about the same dimension as the diameter of the log being used for the Cross Brace.

Step 8: Clear Out the Cut

 After making the two angled cut, make several vertical cuts to a similar depth.

The small wedges of wood left between the cuts can now be removed with a screw driver, knife or ax.
Prying something into the vertical cuts will cause the wood segments to break-out along the grain.


Step 9: Cleaning the Cut

 After chipping out the major wood slice chunks, finish cleaning-up the triangular opening with horizontal cuts from the saw, ax, or knife.

Step 10: Cut the Dovetail Pin

Both ends of the Cross Brace need to be formed into a triangle profile to fit into the Dovetail cut.

Use an ax to add the bottom "flat" to the ends of the Cross Brace log.

Step 11: Side Flats

 Make two more "flats" on the sides of the Cross Brace.

Wedge the the, now triangular ends of the Cross Brace into the Dovetail cuts on the legs of the "A" Frame.

Typical Insert Tab "A"  into Slot "B" sort of thing.

Step 12: Net Seat

The labor intensive portion of the chair is the construction of the net seat.  

Clove hitches are used to secure the rope to the "A" Frame legs and the Cross Brace.  
A Sheet Bend is used at the intersection of the rows and columns.

The photos show the progression of the netting process. 

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Step 13: Net Making

 The knot used at the intersection of the each row and column is a Sheet Bend (shown below).

Each row is secured at the "A" Frame legs and each column is secured at the Cross Brace using a Clove Hitch at these locations.

It is all done with one continuous rope.  (The photos show two different color ropes to highlight the knot tying path).

Start at one end of the Cross Brace and tie clove hitches along the length of the cross brace.  When you reach the other end tie a clove hitch around the A frame leg. 

Work your way back to the starting side tying Sheet Bends to the slack between each clove hitchs on the Cross Brace.

And repeat... ending each row with a clove hitch around an A frame leg

Step 14: Finishing Touches - Arm Chair

Two additional logs are used as Arms.  

They are shown here running between the dovetails and the third Kick-Stand leg of the tripod. 
The Arms are lashed at both locations.  
Future modification -  If we had lashed the Arm logs higher above the dovetails, they might have functioned as proper Armrests.  

While not entirely necessary; the Arms are partially for astetics; completing the triangular star shape of the chair when viewed from the side.

As an added measure of safety; they also act to hold the third leg of the tripod (the Kick Stand) in place.  

Securing the bottom of the Kick Stand leg removes the temptation anyone might have about Kicking this leg out from from under the chair while anyone was in it.  Not that any scout would think of doing that...

You may not need this added measure of safety if you aren't amongst pranksters.

Step 15: Finishing Touches 2 - What's a Chair Without a Cup Holder?

Dual cup holders were made from a birch bark rings. 

When birch trees fall and has been on the ground long enough to begin to decompose; the "pithy" phloem layer just under the bark loosens.  
A bottle sized birch branch was found on the ground and a section of bark was slid off the end as a complete ring.  
Lashing it to the chair with twine provided an excellent place to hold a bottle.

Note: Never cut bark from a live tree!   Scalping bark from any living tree (known as girdling) will  kill it!   If the tree does survive the removal of bark, the resultant scaring is the badge of disgrace of an "ugly camper".   


So now you have a nice rustic chair that is is as comfortable as a hammock.

And really, after all, isn't camping and roughing it in the back woods, all about pampering yourself with creature comforts?  

Now where's the pine cone remote?  I'm really getting tired of watching the fireplace channel.