Introduction: Rustic Industrial Hairpin Bench

This bench is an AMAZING multipurpose piece of furniture and decor, when tested it supported well over 600 pounds which, is more strength than you would ever need. Another major point to add is that it's cheap. This industrial piece can be customized to fit your needs and the capabilities of your "workshop". When I say you can customize it, what I mean is the size, the shape, the color, you name it, you can even buy pre-made legs and/or buy pre-made wood slabs. If you have a spare day, this beautiful bench can be made in an afternoon if you have an inclination and know how to do so.


Here is the tool list if you are making everything (Top and Legs)

*Table saw/Jointer (for making the edges of 2x6 square)

*Miter saw/Circular saw (For cutting boards to length)

*Metal chop saw/Angle grinder (cutting angle iron and rebar)


*Random orbit sander/belt sander


*Two "cheater bars" (for bending the rebar)

*Tape measure and writing utensil

The Material list

*2x6's (for my bench I used three 44" sections of Fir lumber from lowes you can use whatever length your )

*Two 10' lengths of .375" rebar

*Roughly 4' of 1.5" angle iron (if possible you can use some scraps)

*Roughly 2' of 2" flat bar (if possible you can use scrap)

*Minwax Dark Walnut stain (Use what you prefer)

Step 1: Cutting Boards to Length

This step is the deciding factor of how long your bench will be. My benchtop boards will be 44 inches long and I will require three of them.

*Note: The boards do not need to be exact as you can recut the bench at the end.

Step 2: Ripping the Edges Square

For this step, you will be taking the radius off of the corners on the 2x6's. Before you make a cut you can check the blade is square by putting the fence next to it or using a square. After checking for square you can line up the edge of the blade and edge of the 2x6 and rip one side of all 3 2x6's. Then adjust the fence for the second side. If for some reason you don't have a table saw but you have jointer you can use this for the same thing.

Step 3: The Glue Up

For this step apply the exact(whatever you feel is necessary) amount of glue and spread it out as evenly as you want on the edges of the boards. Then you can use as many clamps as you have to apply and even clamping pressure along the benchtop.

*Note: Putting clamps on both sides of the board prevents it from cupping.

*Additional note: Butcher block slabs are available from several home improvement stores which could be used as the bench top.

Step 4: Sand in the Place That You Live

In this step after the glue has dried, you get to do the best part, sand until the board is nice and smooth. The sanding job will affect the stainning step so do your best

*Note: If the board is very uneven you can use a hand plane to flatten it quickly before sanding

Step 5: Cutting the Rebar to Length

I picked 3 feet lengths to make my pin hair legs with. This should end with legs roughly 15" tall. you can change this length to your needs.

Step 6: Marking Out the Legs

In this step I mark the halfway point on the rebar(18") and then two inches on either side (16" and 20").

Step 7: Bending the Rebar

You could use a jig like the one in the first picture however it generally needs heat to work effectively. My choice to ben it is using cheater bars slid down to the two outer lines on the rebar, setting it on the floor, and pulling up on the bars until it is bent to the desired amount.

Step 8: Laying Out the Mount for the Legs

I do not have a picture of this step when I made the mount, unfortunately. However, I have included a drawing with rough dimensions and views to give a basic understanding of how it works and how it was made. Starting to weld the mount together I started with the angle iron and the flat bar and welder that together then added the angled brace from the flat bar to the top of the angle iron. I then drilled holes that will later be used for attaching to the bench. Once the holes have been drilled I use an angle reference to weld on the legs at the end of the rebar and where it meets the top of the angle iron.

*Note: Hairpin legs are available on websites Amazon and Walmart.

Step 9: Attaching the Legs

Attaching the legs is one of the last steps when the whole thing starts to look like a bench. I recommend positioning all of the legs and holding them on with clamps before adding screws.

*Note: If the bench is wobbling after adding screws, add shims under the hole on the flat bar until a satisfactory lack of wobble has been achieved.

Step 10: Staining Time

I very important decision needs to be had here, What color is the bench going to be? I think that dark walnut is a very good choice for this style. A good tip for this step is reading your can of stain to find the instructions for your exact stain. With mine, you applied a coat waited around 30 minutes and then wiped off the excess and didn't sand in between coats. I put on two coats and it was an outstanding finish.

*Note: You can put weatherproof/lifeproof coatings on the bench to protect the bench if you feel like it will be heavily used or abused.

Step 11: The Final Most Importantist Step... Location

Once you have a spectacle for your home that you have put hopefully no blood, but sweat, and tears into, you need to find the perfect location to display your workmanship. Once you have found a location try and stage it a bit with greenery or something that matches your home's aesthetic.

*Note: If you are someone like me, have an artsy person decorate for you.

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