Introduction: Rustic Pallet Wood Bar

About: Hello, I'm Niki. I like to make things and save money while I am doing it.

Easy and cheap rustic bar. I made this for my sisters wedding.


Made from logs, old corrugated iron and pallet wood.

Step 1:

Start with 4 logs, with as much character as you can find.

Step 2:

I used 90x45 mm pine. That we had left over, from concrete form work.

Step 3:

Measured the 4 posts to the same length.

Step 4:

I cut the first post with the circular saw. With the blade set at full depth.

Step 5:

Rotating the log as I went.

Step 6:

If the blade depth is still not enough. Just give the cut end a wack with a hammer.

Step 7:

That took too long. So I switched over to the chainsaw.

Step 8:

Now all 4 posts are the same length.

Step 9:

Here we are looking at the top left hand side post.

Mark a straight line. Just shy of half way.

Step 10:

Then mark the center of that line.

Step 11:

Use a protractor to mark 60°

Step 12:

You should be left with something like this.

Step 13:

We are going to be cutting out that 120° wedge.

Step 14:

Draw a vertical line 100mm down, from one side of the 120° wedge.

Step 15:

Another vertical line for the other side.

Step 16:

Roughly sketch a horizontal line across, joining those 2 points together.

Step 17:

Owen Is better on the chainsaw than I am. So he volunteered to cut out the wedges for me.

Step 18:

The 120° wedge is now cut out.

Step 19:

The front right hand side is a mirror image of the other side.

Step 20:

The back is marked out the same as the front. Only we will be cutting out the 60° wedge

opposed to the 120° wedge.

Step 21:

The ruler is demonstrating were the side wall will be.

Step 22:

Now that all the top wedges are cut out. We have to do the same for the bottom of all the posts.

I am using a straight edge as a guide, to make sure the bottom wedge lines up with the top.

Step 23:

Checking and adjusting the lines slightly. To make sure the degrees are the same.

Step 24:

I scraped as much concrete as I could off of the pine lengths.

Step 25:

Mark the 2 spots to be drilled.

Step 26:

Pre-drill the holes. Larger than the shank of the screws.

Step 27:

Chamfer the holes.

Step 28:

I used a decking screw in reveres to score the post bellow it.

Step 29:

Then with a drill bit smaller than the shank of the screw. Drill a pilot hole, to prevent any splitting.

Step 30:

Do the same for the bottom as we did for the top.

Now we have the front face of the bar all framed out.

Step 31:

If you want the corrugated iron to fit neatly up against the post. . . .

Step 32:

You are going to need to cut a channel for it to slide into.

Step 33:

Only take a little off at a time.
Keep sliding the iron up against the post, to see were you need to take some more from.

Step 34:

Now the corrugated iron fits.

Step 35:

Square up one end of the iron. With the cutting disk on an angle grinder.

Step 36:

Measure the height of the bar and cut the iron to length.

Step 37:

Use a nail and a hammer to punch a hole through the corrugated iron.

So that the screws can easily got into the timber behind it.

Step 38:

I attached the iron with with cheap chipboard screws.

Step 39:

Moving onto the sides of the bar.

Step 40:

Here I am marking 2 parallel lines.

Step 41:

So I can pre-cut a channel for the corrugated iron.

Step 42:

Set the circular saw to the ideal depth.

Step 43:

Cut along both the lines.

Step 44:

Pull out the scrap material.

Step 45:

Clean it up a little if need be.

Step 46:

The sides of the bar are half the width of a corrugated iron sheet.

Step 47:

Leaving the sides alone for now. And moving onto framing up the back of the bar.

I cut the 2 lengths of pine to the same length.

Step 48:

Roughly mark the angle.

Step 49:

Set the circular saw accordingly. And make your cuts.

Step 50:

Moving on back to the sides.
We have the corrugated iron tucked into the groves that we pre-cut earlier.

Step 51:

It's easier to attach the iron first.

Step 52:

And then attach the frame afterwards.

Step 53:

These angles were cut at 35°

Step 54:

It's starting to come together.

Step 55:

Before we put the top on. We awkwardly carry it into position.

Step 56:

For the bar top. I cut and pulled apart some pallets. And ran the palings through the thicknesser.

Step 57:

Square up the first paling.

Step 58:

Mark 20mm in, from both sides for the screw holes.

Step 59:

Pre-drill the hole.

Step 60:

Then chamfer.

Step 61:

Square it up again.

Step 62:

Attach your first paling.

Step 63:

Do the same thing for the paling down the other end.

Step 64:

Fill in the center with as many loose palings as required.

Step 65:

These will all be left oversized and we will just cut them all at once to length, at the end.

Step 66:

If you are left with a gap that needs filling.
Chances are that one side of the gap is larger than the other.

Step 67:

Take a measurement from either side.

Step 68:

Transfer those measurements to a paling and draw a straight line between them.

Step 69:

Clamp one end to a bench.

Step 70:

Run the circular saw along your line.

Step 71:

Flip it over and re-clamp it.

Step 72:

Finish off the cut.

Step 73:

Now that it is cut to size . . .

Step 74:

Place that paling among the others.

Step 75:

Grab a straight edge and mark were the screw holes will go.

Step 76:

Use some tape as a depth gauge on your drill bit.

Step 77:

So you can drill the holes right were the palings are.

Step 78:

Chamfer all the holes.

Step 79:

Attach them all with cheap chipboard screws.

Step 80:

Now that it is all attached. It is time to cut the top to size.

Step 81:

Measure 135mm from the screws.

Step 82:

Connect the dots, with a straight edge.

Step 83:

Clamp down a straight edge.

Step 84:

Run the circular saw along it.

Step 85:

I am glad we moved it before attaching the top.

Because I don't think we would of got it out of the gate otherwise.

Also, it is heavy.

Step 86:

I ran some paling through the table saw, set at 30mm.

Step 87:

Pre-drilled and chamfered the holes.

Step 88:

These will be attached to the entire underside of the bar.

Step 89:

Because of the amount of over hang there is at the front of the bar,

I didn't won't any twisting and warping in the individual pieces.

Step 90:

Gave the whole top a good sand.

Step 91:

And it's done.

Step 92:

If you like working with pallets, or other cheaper materials

Or just want some more information.

You might want to check out some of my YouTube videos.

YouTube Nikita Maree