Introduction: Rustic Pallet Wood Bar
Easy and cheap rustic bar. I made this for my sisters wedding.
Supplies
Made from logs, old corrugated iron and pallet wood.
Step 1:
Start with 4 logs, with as much character as you can find.
Step 2:
I used 90x45 mm pine. That we had left over, from concrete form work.
Step 3:
Measured the 4 posts to the same length.
Step 4:
I cut the first post with the circular saw. With the blade set at full depth.
Step 5:
Rotating the log as I went.
Step 6:
If the blade depth is still not enough. Just give the cut end a wack with a hammer.
Step 7:
That took too long. So I switched over to the chainsaw.
Step 8:
Now all 4 posts are the same length.
Step 9:
Here we are looking at the top left hand side post.
Mark a straight line. Just shy of half way.
Step 10:
Then mark the center of that line.
Step 11:
Use a protractor to mark 60°
Step 12:
You should be left with something like this.
Step 13:
We are going to be cutting out that 120° wedge.
Step 14:
Draw a vertical line 100mm down, from one side of the 120° wedge.
Step 15:
Another vertical line for the other side.
Step 16:
Roughly sketch a horizontal line across, joining those 2 points together.
Step 17:
Owen Is better on the chainsaw than I am. So he volunteered to cut out the wedges for me.
Step 18:
The 120° wedge is now cut out.
Step 19:
The front right hand side is a mirror image of the other side.
Step 20:
The back is marked out the same as the front. Only we will be cutting out the 60° wedge
opposed to the 120° wedge.
Step 21:
The ruler is demonstrating were the side wall will be.
Step 22:
Now that all the top wedges are cut out. We have to do the same for the bottom of all the posts.
I am using a straight edge as a guide, to make sure the bottom wedge lines up with the top.
Step 23:
Checking and adjusting the lines slightly. To make sure the degrees are the same.
Step 24:
I scraped as much concrete as I could off of the pine lengths.
Step 25:
Mark the 2 spots to be drilled.
Step 26:
Pre-drill the holes. Larger than the shank of the screws.
Step 27:
Chamfer the holes.
Step 28:
I used a decking screw in reveres to score the post bellow it.
Step 29:
Then with a drill bit smaller than the shank of the screw. Drill a pilot hole, to prevent any splitting.
Step 30:
Do the same for the bottom as we did for the top.
Now we have the front face of the bar all framed out.
Step 31:
If you want the corrugated iron to fit neatly up against the post. . . .
Step 32:
You are going to need to cut a channel for it to slide into.
Step 33:
Only take a little off at a time.
Keep sliding the iron up against the post, to see were you need to take some more from.
Step 34:
Now the corrugated iron fits.
Step 35:
Square up one end of the iron. With the cutting disk on an angle grinder.
Step 36:
Measure the height of the bar and cut the iron to length.
Step 37:
Use a nail and a hammer to punch a hole through the corrugated iron.
So that the screws can easily got into the timber behind it.
Step 38:
I attached the iron with with cheap chipboard screws.
Step 39:
Moving onto the sides of the bar.
Step 40:
Here I am marking 2 parallel lines.
Step 41:
So I can pre-cut a channel for the corrugated iron.
Step 42:
Set the circular saw to the ideal depth.
Step 43:
Cut along both the lines.
Step 44:
Pull out the scrap material.
Step 45:
Clean it up a little if need be.
Step 46:
The sides of the bar are half the width of a corrugated iron sheet.
Step 47:
Leaving the sides alone for now. And moving onto framing up the back of the bar.
I cut the 2 lengths of pine to the same length.
Step 48:
Roughly mark the angle.
Step 49:
Set the circular saw accordingly. And make your cuts.
Step 50:
Moving on back to the sides.
We have the corrugated iron tucked into the groves that we pre-cut earlier.
Step 51:
It's easier to attach the iron first.
Step 52:
And then attach the frame afterwards.
Step 53:
These angles were cut at 35°
Step 54:
It's starting to come together.
Step 55:
Before we put the top on. We awkwardly carry it into position.
Step 56:
For the bar top. I cut and pulled apart some pallets. And ran the palings through the thicknesser.
Step 57:
Square up the first paling.
Step 58:
Mark 20mm in, from both sides for the screw holes.
Step 59:
Pre-drill the hole.
Step 60:
Then chamfer.
Step 61:
Square it up again.
Step 62:
Attach your first paling.
Step 63:
Do the same thing for the paling down the other end.
Step 64:
Fill in the center with as many loose palings as required.
Step 65:
These will all be left oversized and we will just cut them all at once to length, at the end.
Step 66:
If you are left with a gap that needs filling.
Chances are that one side of the gap is larger than the other.
Step 67:
Take a measurement from either side.
Step 68:
Transfer those measurements to a paling and draw a straight line between them.
Step 69:
Clamp one end to a bench.
Step 70:
Run the circular saw along your line.
Step 71:
Flip it over and re-clamp it.
Step 72:
Finish off the cut.
Step 73:
Now that it is cut to size . . .
Step 74:
Place that paling among the others.
Step 75:
Grab a straight edge and mark were the screw holes will go.
Step 76:
Use some tape as a depth gauge on your drill bit.
Step 77:
So you can drill the holes right were the palings are.
Step 78:
Chamfer all the holes.
Step 79:
Attach them all with cheap chipboard screws.
Step 80:
Now that it is all attached. It is time to cut the top to size.
Step 81:
Measure 135mm from the screws.
Step 82:
Connect the dots, with a straight edge.
Step 83:
Clamp down a straight edge.
Step 84:
Run the circular saw along it.
Step 85:
I am glad we moved it before attaching the top.
Because I don't think we would of got it out of the gate otherwise.
Also, it is heavy.
Step 86:
I ran some paling through the table saw, set at 30mm.
Step 87:
Pre-drilled and chamfered the holes.
Step 88:
These will be attached to the entire underside of the bar.
Step 89:
Because of the amount of over hang there is at the front of the bar,
I didn't won't any twisting and warping in the individual pieces.
Step 90:
Gave the whole top a good sand.
Step 91:
And it's done.
Step 92:
If you like working with pallets, or other cheaper materials
Or just want some more information.
You might want to check out some of my YouTube videos.
