Introduction: SRv2

About: I make instructables. I also have a YouTube channel at
If you don't have any K'nex and want to buy the parts for this beast you'd better fork out $140 and you won't get much change!

With a proven 500ft+ range! Enjoy the video, and if the thought "This is pretty good" even briefly crosses your mind, don't hesitate to rate 5 stars!

BUT! If you don't have the parts to build this gun, then go straight to step 6 for part savers and mods.

THE OLD VIDEO IS NOW ON THE LAST STEP! Watch if you want to see the SR-V2 at close range!

The Last picture is what remained of the power gauge. (the white bit was all I could find from the first attempt, and I replaced it with a blue bit and shot from further away. I gave up after that!)

Step 1: Build the SR-V1
Oh yeah, don't bother with the bipod, its rubbish.

Righty ho, the trigger frame, Carrying Handle w/ Sight and the barrel all need changing! When you get to those steps, refer back to this intructable to see what you need to do.

Picture 1 and 2:
1) Right, see the grey connector (outlined in image notes), replace it with the hinge seen in picture 2.
2) Ignore ALL of this photo except where the hinge goes: my gun is different from the SR-V1 to save time, effort and pieced :D

Picture 3:
Ok, don't try and leave the barrel open, it will not need to be opened in anyway BUT do not attach the 3 blue rods that are circled in red.

Picture 4:
IMPORTANT: It is essential that you leave the gun in this disassembled state.

SR-V1 parts list (This includes the firing mech too, so think of it as an estimate):
4x yellow
61x blue
288x green
244x white
6x black/strong ones

8x light grey
11x orange
the big one yes 335x yellow WOW
4x dark grey
10x y connector
2x purple 3d connector
2x blue hinge
2x black hinge
3x blue 3d connector
3x black ball joint
1x gold splice
7x red connector
By Oldsmobilefreak

Step 2: Firing Mech (UPDATED)

Picture 1:
2 yellow connectors, 2 white rods, 2 green hinge pieces, 2 black y connectors, 1 yellow rod, 1 grey connector, 2 blue rods

Picture 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7:
The mech itself, the pictures couldn't be easier to follow (the last picture is a different angle of picture 6 to confirm that you got everything right.

Step 3: Trigger Mech (UPDATED)

These pictures may be a little hard to see, leave comments if you think they need upgrading (and how!)

Picture 1:
Simple, attach a yellow rod to the blue hinge piece from the trigger frame (step 2).
Picture 2:
Clip the blue rod from the firing mech onto the end of the barrel and attach the yellow rod as shown (better to see in pic 3)
Picture 3:
Overview of what you have just built.
Picture 4:
Bit hard to see, but this is very easy, hook a band around the black hinge (again from step 2) and hook it back round the little red rods at the bottom of the trigger frame (better seen in next picture)
Picture 5:
What you've just built, sorry I don't know what that hinge is doing in the middle of the white background sorry. Pull the trigger, it should be fairly obvious if it doesn't work.
Picture 6: Fix the rest of the barrel on to strengthen it and protect the flimsy bits.

Step 4: Loading and Firing

The first few pictures show how to make the ammo:
Picture 1:
KillerK's bullet. It is a dark grey connector clipped onto the end of a red rod with a green rod slid through it, all held in place with surgical tubing. WARNING: THE FINS ARE NEEDED! The bullet will work fine, but it will spin in the air which decreases velocity and the range and the power.
Picture 2:
My Bullet! Cheaper and requires less effort. Mine is identical to KillerK's except that it is held together with tape. Tape is weaker but saves the money and effort of buying tubing.
Picture 3 and 4:
4) lift up the mech
5) Insert bullet. Give it a good tug: it should be almost impossible to remove without pulling the trigger if done correctly.

Achieving High ranges

This is what KillerK did (as do I for most)
"Surgical tubing is the same material used to make sling shots
its like a super powerful rubberband
i use scotch tape for the fins
i make the fins small
if u r shooting on an angle for distance and a little electrical tape around the front of the rod just behind the tip to add weight
increase the weight without disturbing the aerodynamics and the rod will cut threw the air further
for straight shots the lighter the rods the faster the rod will travel so the straighter it will shoot"

Step 5: Converting a Current SR-V1 and "is It Worth It?"

Got an SR-V1? Same here: convert yours in minutes!

Picture 1: The mighty SR-V1!
Picture 2: The mighty(er) SR-V2!
Picture 3: To put simply, I'm pretty lazy, so in fact the bits from the SR-V1 mech that are tricky to remove ARE STILL IN PLACE, so in fact if you remove this red track, you will find a stripped down version of the SR-V1! I would not recommend doing this, as for some people the bullet smacks into the tracks and and the tracks fly off and several other bits will either shatter or fall of. This has never happened to me personally, but I took mine off anyway, to reduce possoble resistance to the bullet.

SR-V1 and SR-V2 differences:
Besides the trigger, there are other difference to th two guns (thanks to KillerK for giving me this list)
"the v2 is basically a heavily modded v1
the barrel is much shorter
shorter body
shorter stock
hundreds fewer pieces
the sling front is connected in a much sturdier fashion
the connection points of the major parts r much sturdier barrel/body body/grip
the stock connection is stronger
new rod hold/release mech
new trigger mech
new cheek rest
new comfortable butt lol
new foregrip
new ammo storage
pretty much the only thing that hasn't been improved upon is the look/basic design"

Also, the SR-V1s range (that KillerK got) was 300ft (about 100m) but the SR-V2 got 500ft!

Step 6: Helpful Mods:

SR-V1 pistol (works with SR-V2 mech, but it has a slightly weaker structure):
By nickkoppelaar

SR-V1 Mods+ No More Exotic Pieces (new mech, just ignore):
By I like it

Mini SR-V1 (BIG part saver)
By: tbone121

SR-V1 Bipod mod:
By: tbone121

KillerK/Sniperion SR-V1 Mod
By: Sniperion

By: Lowney

*Check the pictures: mine just saves yellow connectors by replacing the lower ones with white and blue (in pattern:D). It also has a different stock and trigger frame attachment for a massive reduction in parts. The first picture is not the full gun, I just removed the stock so the whole thing would fit onto the picture. also found this little gem: A mini SR-V2! This was Mepain's answer to a more compact SR-V2. Also, If anyone has a varient of the SR-V2 then leave a pic in the comment section/my orangeboard and it will feature on this instructable!

Step 7: Point Blank Power!

Sorry, Youtube removed the audio :(

The song was "Guns and Roses -Chinese democracy" and my old icon appears randomly for a while with nothing going on: there was like a warning announcement being made (from our dear friend Richard Hammond)

Also, people have pointed out that it is inaccurate: THE ROD DOES NOT BEND UNDER THE FORCE (lol) you'll know what I mean if you watch it.

And to stop people asking the gun in the second picture is a Lahti 20mm semi-automatic anti-tank rifle