Introduction: Saw Stand With Auto Brake
This is a stand I built for my DeWalt DW745 tabletop saw. I know DeWalt produces a perfectly good stand for this saw, but I found it too expensive, and I don't really need its folding ability, as my saw only gets moved around in the workshop, so can be mounted permanently.
The stand I built is of quite ordinary construction, but with one special feature: It's got brakes on both front wheels which automatically unlock when you lift up the handle to move the saw around, and locks when the handle is not in use.
This means the stand is very solidly parked when you use it thanks to the applied brakes.
Although this stand was purposely built for my DeWalt, it can be easily adapted for any other saw or machine which needs a stand.
Step 1: How It Works
The first picture shows the braking mechanism in braked position (red) and in unbraked position (green).
The brakes itself (second picture) consist of bolts fitted to a dowel which turns when the handle is lifted or lowered. The heads of the bolts press against the wheels in braked position (handle lowered).
The braking mechanism swivels on two dowels: One to which the handle is fixed, and one to which the brakes are fitted. The dowels are linked by a rod which transfers the turning movement.
Step 2: The Materials
Most of the frame and fittings (first picture) are made from 20 mm thick and 65 mm wide pine, except the front axle, the top cross members on which the saw rests, and the handle, which are made from sturdier sized meranti (but only because it was available in a convenient size; pine would have worked just as well). The 19 mm dowels for the braking mechanism and handle are of course made from hardwood.
I've found the frame sufficiently sturdy in use, but you can of course use stronger/thicker wood if you want.
The wheels (second picture) are 150 mm in diameter and fitted to the front wooden axle with 90 mm x 12 mm coach screws. You can of course use a metal axle all the way through, but the wooden axle adds much to the strength of the frame.
Step 3: Construction of the Frame
The first two pictures show the measurements of the different parts of the stand, and the third picture shows measurements for parts that are not visible in the first pictures. Note that the measurements in the first picture are for the whole parts, which may not be fully visible.
The height of my stand is 580 mm, which raises the saw to 915 mm, a centimeter or two higher than my workbench, which I can then use as an outfeed table when necessary.
First build the frame (fourth picture) according to the plan. I've used screws and glue for all the joints.
I've included pictures from different angles to help explain the build.
Step 4: The Other Bits
The first picture shows the fittings for the two dowels for the braking mechanism. Left and top left are the two connecting blocks, each of which is permanently fixed to a dowel with their other ends connected to the connecting shaft between them. The joints to the connecting shaft consists of screws, and allow movement.
The top dowel swivels in sockets at the top insides of the frame, formed by the two socket blocks on the right in the first picture. The second dowel, to which the braking bolts are fixed, swivels through holes in the feet (third picture).
The two small square blocks in picture one are used for stops for the dowel inside the front feet. They, ass weel as the rest of the braking mechanism and its fittings, can be clearly seen in the second picture.
The last picture shows the handle parts before assembly. Note the sockets for the handle's dowels to fit in.The handle are permanently fixed to the upper dowel of the braking mechanism.
I used trial and error to get the positioning of the handle, the connecting rod and the braking dowel quite right for the system to work perfectly. This of course has to be done before permanently fixing anything to the dowels. I fixed the handle and connecting rod and its connecting pieces temporarily with screws tot the dowels while experimenting with the positioning.
I hope the instructions and photos provide a clear enough picture of the build. Questions are welcome.