Introduction: Sci-Fi Laser Gun

About: I'm an amateur model builder and starting a new journey into prop making.

This prop will go perfect with any sci fi or futuristic costume and only takes a couple of hours to make.

Supplies

The first, major part of this build, is a toy gun from Walmart. The name of it is called the Gauntlet by Adventure Force, and is only about $6. Next are polystyrene sheets in a variety pack of 9 with different thicknesses(.020 x3 .030 x3, .040 x2, and .060 x1) super glue, Tamiya Gray Putty/Any type of filler some sort of sand paper or sanding tool, a hobby knife, and side cutters/clippers.

Step 1: The Main Body

These are the measurements for the main pieces of the body, to trace, or to copy down, onto the sheets of polystyrene. The side pieces, go with the thickest sheet, and the front, back, and top pieces are made, from the second thickest sheet.

Step 2: Modifications to the Gun

Next, you will need to make the top as flat as possible,
and its okay to make small accidents during this stage of removal, because, this top part will not be seen by the end. Next, you will need to keep the suppressor attachment on the gun during the whole process, as is gives much needed support in the building steps. You will also, need to flatten the sides of the connecting portion of the attachment, so the sheets will sit flush with the gun.

Step 3: Side Pieces

After cutting out the side pieces first, glue them onto the gun with the top part being glued first then to the trigger guard, ensuring that the parts around the trigger guard are lined up, and the front end of the sheet, lines up with the end of the suppressor. If the sheet does not line up with the end of the suppressor, you may need to trim the suppressor to do so.

Step 4: Back Pieces

Cut 4, 1 inch squares, from the third most thick sheet to form a box around the back of the gun. Then glue into place.

Step 5: Side Covers

After the Side pieces are solid enough to be worked on then you will cut these pieces out of the thinnest sheet to cover up the portion near the trigger guard. You may need heat to make the pieces conform to the shape of the gun but lots of bending also works fine.

Step 6: Top Piece

Now, cut out the top piece from the second thickest sheet, and glue into place. If there are any pieces hanging over, just cut them with the side cutters, or hobby knife, to make flush joints.

Step 7: Bottom Pieces

The bottom piece can be done like the top piece but for the bend below the trigger guard you will need a separate piece to glue into place.

Step 8: Front Piece

For the front piece you will need to cut out the hole before gluing onto the rest of the build as it will be difficult if glued.

Step 9: Bottom Handle

For this piece, you will need to cut out this shape twice from the third thickest sheet, and glue them together, before gluing onto the gun.

Step 10: Additions

this extra part that comes with the set will be taken and cut apart to add more detail to the gun follow to pictures and glue the pieces to the gun as shown.

Step 11: Top Detail

Next for this detail we will ad pieces of styrene cut from the sheets to make this into a whole piece.

Step 12: Filling and Sanding

Now you will fill any gaps left with the tamiya putty and sand the areas to make smooth and you will also sand any rough edges or corners.

Step 13: More Details

I first, added a small decoration to the front consisting of the polystyrene tubes. (The muzzle piece was removed and I left a hole there in the end.) Next, I added a cylindrical piece of styrene to the side of the gun, and glued in place. I also added a cut out piece from the thinnest styrene sheet, to the side, and drilled holes into it. I then added a square tube to the bottom and thin strips running parallel to the piece with holes, to add more detail. Then, I cut out a long strip of the thinnest sheet, to add to the bottom of the gun, and the bottom of the handle, to make a finger guard.

Step 14: Painting

After sanding all the large surfaces you are ready to paint you can either do this with modeling paint or for more rugged usage spray paint (I opted for spray paint.) After you are done with painting spray with a clear coat and let dry. Now you are ready for drybrushing (A technique in which using a brush with very little paint on it, is brushed over edges and rough surfaces to create definition on the edges and corners.)

Step 15: Optional

I ended up cutting out pieces of craft foam to put on the handle for a much better grip.