Introduction: Scroll Saw Repair Using TinkerCad, Flatbed Scanner, and 3d Printer
The Excalibur II
This was a top of the line scroll saw back in 1982 when it was purchased. It did an incredible amount of work in it's day. Sadly it broke in the early 2000's and parts could not be found. It sat in a corner of the shop for years. Then was moved to the upstairs of a barn where it sat for the past 17 years. I've decided its time to fix it.
Supplies
Things needed to complete this repair are as follows;
Socket set
Screw drivers
Hex keys
Rubber mallet and pry bar may come in handy
A printer with scanning abilities or a flat bed scanner
Computer
Internet connection
3d Printer with carbon fibre reinforced filament and supporting software
Step 1: Assessing the Situation
I cleaned the saw, then brought it into my shop. It looked fine but when the motor turned, the blade didn't move.
My assessment "Saw is broken" duh!
Step 2: Find Out What Is Broken
I removed the drive belt so I could spin the pulley easier. I didn't feel or hear anything odd. So I began looking around and found a small hole. So I looked in it of course. While turning the pulley the problem was found. As you can see in the third picture a piece is broken.
Step 3: Disassemble
Unfortunately this broken piece was one of the first pieces to be installed when building this machine. I took lots of pictures while taking this apart. I will use them as reference when putting it back together. If I put it back together.
Step 4: The Broken Part
This is the broken part. When the drive shaft spins, this piece moves back and forth. It pulls and pushes an actuator arm that in turn connects to the upper and lower actuator arms that drive the blade mechanisms. Clear as mud, right? Simply put, this makes it work. Its broken, so it doesn't work.
Step 5: What Now
I searched the net and came up empty. A 40 year old saw part is impossible to come by. I thought about having a piece machined or, maybe I could use aluminum welding rods and fix it myself. But if I destroyed the piece, how would a machinist make me a new one. I decided I had better do some measurements.
Step 6: Design the Part
To start the design process I scanned the part with my Brother printer . I used a sharpie first to assure a nice dark image.
Step 7: Remove Background
I used free online tools to prepare my scan for use in Tinker Cad. In these pics you can see how I removed the background, darkened, and created a .svg file I could import into Tinker Cad. The pictures show the addresses of each of the free websites I used but they are a bit to small for some eyes. My own included. The sites are as follows:
https://tech-lagoon.com/imagechef/en/background-remove.html
https://tech-lagoon.com/imagechef/en/image-to-monochrome.html
Step 8: Tinkercad
Tinkercad is an amazing tool. Once I imported and sized my .svg image, I was able to build around it with solids and holes until I had recreated the part. No need to figure out the angles, just follow the scanned image. Once all my creations were in place, I just removed my scan, selected everything else and clicked combine and voila! One additional cut out and two small additions and I was done. I then exported my creation as an .stl file.
Step 9: 3d Printing ?
My next thought was 3d printing. If I had a part printed and it fit, then I could attempt aluminum welding without worry. If I messed up I'd give the printed part to a machinist to copy. Problem is I don't have a 3d printer.
I uploaded my .stl to a website and for $8, shipping included, I got myself a perfect copy of my creation. BLEW MY MIND!
I had chosen the cheapest option they had in case it didn't work well. After receiving my perfect part, I decided to order one made with carbon fibre reinforcement and just use it. I was now finding that my price had risen astronomically. Even reordering the one I had just purchased would have been over three times the price. Garrr@#! What to do now.
Step 10: Time for a New Hobby ?
This was my first experience with Tinker Cad and 3d printing. If I had my own machine surely I would be able to do more than just fix this scroll saw. So yes, I decided to dive down the rabbit hole. I bought a Creality ender6 3d printer. I have lots of pics of assembling it. This Instructable isn't about building a 3d printer though. Maybe I'll do another Instructable on how to assemble it another time.
Step 11: Prepare to Print
Of the many programs out there to prepare .stl files for printing, I have chosen PrusaSlicer. I'm new to this and I find it pretty easy to follow. I bought carbon fibre reinforced pla filament and printed my own part.
Step 12: Reassemble
It was so exciting to have my own printed part, after 5 months of having the machine in pieces in my shop. I put it in and reassembled the saw. It works great so far. If it breaks again, I'll just print another part with a stronger filament and see how that goes. In the mean time, I'll enjoy my new hobby by printing other items.
Step 13: Test Run
This is just a simple test with thin material to show it running.
I'm quite pleased with how this project turned out. I also look forward to incorporating 3d printed items into future Instructables.
Tinkercad was also super fun to work with, so thanks to Autodesk for offering such a marvellous tool for free. I look forward to trying out their Fusion 360 program next.

Second Prize in the
Fix It Speed Challenge
17 Comments
6 months ago on Step 13
This is really well done and it comes at a very good time. There have been a couple of folks recently on Scrollsawvillage.com who have questioned whether or not to buy used Excaliburs of your vintage. Knowing that the parts can be 3-D printed will help. I hope you will move over to that forum and join us. Your video will come in handy. Thanks for taking the time.
Reply 6 months ago
Hi socaltoolguy,
To be perfectly honest I haven't used the saw much since the fix. I just hated to scrap it out. I don't know if the repair will hold up or not. There is a new printing filament now that prints stainless steel. It has to be sent out after printing to be processed. Kind of like green ware in pottery. It has a shrinkage factor that must be designed in as well. Machining may be required to fit a bearing. I had to sand my part a bit with a drum on the drill press but I don't think stainless would be as easy to work with. I'd suggest buying a new machine. I already owned this one so I gave it a shot.
Reply 6 months ago
Ok, thanks. I understand. I'll pass that along. I see these old machines pop up from time to time and thought if there was a way to resurrect them it might be a good thing. I already have 3 saws so I don't need or want another.
1 year ago on Step 7
What we're the free online software you used for getting the part to Tinkercad
Best Answer 1 year ago
Hi Roym,
I see now that the url addresses in my photos are a little hard to see.
I'll add the addresses to the Instructable.
https://tech-lagoon.com/imagechef/en/background-re...
https://tech-lagoon.com/imagechef/en/image-to-mono...
https://www.pngtosvg.com/
1 year ago on Step 13
Do you have any idea how many of these old saws are probably sitting around with the same problem? You may have saved them from the scrap heap. Make it known to Ray at Seyco.com that you have that part available. I'm sure he'd be interested in knowing.
Reply 1 year ago
Interesting thought. I'm still unsure of how long the part will last. I'd be hesitant to supply someone else. It may turn out that 3d printing isn't the answer. For me I'll just print another piece if it breaks. No one to complain to but myself. I don't have any scroll saw work to do at the moment so it could take me a while to trial this experiment. I will keep your suggestion in mind though for the future. After I've had some time to work with the machine.
Reply 1 year ago
Well, I only suggested it because Ray was at one time the "go-to" person regarding the maintenance and upkeep of the Excalibur scroll saws. He sold them, serviced them etc. He still sells the parts for repair most of them that aren't outdated. But, I'm sure he might be interested in what you have managed to do and might collaborate with you on manufacturing a part that can hold up.
Reply 1 year ago
Yes I know of him. He was one of the first people I contacted after taking the machine apart. I'll shoot him off an email to let him know what I've been up to.
1 year ago
You will laugh at this I hope. I read the article as I use a scroll saw fairly regularly.
However I have a big 0 birthday coming up and am struggling to help my family give me something.
It was DanPro going out and buying a 3d Printer that clicked - so thanks for that idea, Dan.
I don't think I will be making scrollsaw bits but I suspect that they will all claim ownership if they take me up on this, and come to play with it!!
Reply 1 year ago
I'm laughing. I hope to have a big o on my birthday as well. What, that was a 0 not an o. I guess a new 3d printer would come in a close second then (-;
My grand kids my own 5 kids and my wife have kept the printer quite busy. I've even had a few paying print jobs come my way as well since word got out that I bought one.
There is a bit of a learning curve. Those of us that have had a number of big 0 birthdays need learning curves though. Use it or loose it comes more and more to mind as I age.
1 year ago on Step 7
And the hint with the background removal - super good. Thanks again
Reply 1 year ago
It saved a lot of time. Measuring and setting up angles can be a real pain.
1 year ago on Step 6
Good one - I'll keep this in mind
Reply 1 year ago
Thanks
1 year ago
Thanks for posting your repair journey. And congratulations on getting a 3D printer! They say that with a 3D printer, "if you can imagine it, you can hold it in your hand."
I couldn't exactly tell what loads the broken part was handling, but if the manufacturer chose aluminum instead of a plastic part, it probably needs to be metal; so you ultimately might have to get a part machined.
Just as a side note, there are people who use 3D prints to act as a model for aluminum casting. Just type in "3D print casting" in Instructables search box.
Good luck with your next project!
Reply 1 year ago
Hi wannabemadsci,
Thanks for the comment. The stress on this part is directly proportional to how hard you push your work and how hard the product is that you try to cut. Back in 1980 when this was made aluminum was universally used for this type of machine. They didn't have this technology yet. I hope I get a few miles out of this part. But as you say, it may need to be metal. But I'll try some other filaments first. Nylon with carbon fibre would most likely be next then poly carbonate after that. An Instructable using 3d print casting sounds like fun as well. Time will tell. You have quite a collection of Instructables under your belt. I look forward to browsing them. Keep up the good work!