Introduction: Shoe Cubbies

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We're constantly having family and guests over. Even with just my family alone there seems to be at least 25 people over! Needless to say, when that happens, our mud room becomes a sea of shoes. Added to my honey-do list that summer was to build custom cubbies to tame the mess.

Step 1: Top and Side Frame Panels Cut

Top 67" x 12"

Sides 59 ¾" x 12"

Notch ripped along inside edge for back panel insert.

Horizontal shelves are 64 ½“ x 11 ¾”

Vertical shelves are 58 ½” x 11 ¾”

Step 2: Pocket Screws Drilled to Attach Frame Corners

Step 3: Frame Screwed Together

Step 4: Added Metal Corner Brackets for More Stability

Step 5: Marked Slots for Shelves and Cut With Jigsaw

It was critical to get this right for the cubby dimensions and to ensure to mark horizontal vs. vertical shelves. I wanted to cubes to be 10 ½” x 10 ½” to allow for shoes or those box inserts in case we wanted to use those for things other than shoes. Bottom cubes were slightly taller (14½”) to allow for boots.

Step 6: Shelf Slots Cut

Slots cut every 10½” for the horizontal shelves just slightly past the ½ way point of the board. I used a jigsaw to cut the sides and chisel on the edge to remove the section.

Step 7: Shelves Cut!

Step 8: Shelves Inserted Into One Another

Step 9: L Brackets Installed on Shelves by the Frame

If I were to do this again, I would have notched the frame on the inside and made the shelves a few mm longer to allow them to slide into the frame. This would have added more stability and prevented the end shelves from moving without the need for the "L" brackets.

Step 10: Back Panel Cut to Fit

1/4" panel cut to fit and layed into slot cut in back of frame from step 1. Panel secured with finishing nails.

Step 11: Paused to Admire the Progress!

Step 12: Building Base

The base of the cubbies was made from 2x4's screwed together and pocket screwed to the shelves.

Step 13: Base Was Brought Forward in Front and Back and Bottom Attached

This was done to accommodate the finishing trim on the front and the trim on the wall (you'll see what I mean later).

Step 14: Measuring Crown Molding for the Top

Step 15: Created 2x4 Box on Top

I decided to create some additional storage at the top behind the crown molding.

Step 16: Added Frame Trim and Lined Up the Crown Molding for the Top Box

Used painters tape to hold the angles and line up the corners.

Step 17: Finishing Trim Glued and Nailed to Front of Shelves

Step 18: Base Board Trim Added to Bottom

Notice how the baseboard trim on the frame pops out? This is why I popped the base out slightly so the frame trim wouldn't overhang the baseboard trim.

Step 19: Added Some Filler Pieces to Secure the Crown

2x4 ripped and cut at a 45 degree angle met up perfectly. I wanted to add this for more stability for the crown and so things can be stored on top as well. Additionally, I did not to leave a gap since the top would be used for storage. Finishing nails were used to install the crown molding.

Step 20: Notches Chiseled for the Lid Hinges

Step 21: Lid Measured and Cut

Edges ripped at 45 degree angle to fit against the crown molding.

Step 22: Lid Attached

I don't have any pictures but there's a small storage area once you lift the lid. I haven't added a handle or toy chest hinge to hold it up yet.

Step 23: 2 Coats of Stain and Polyurethane Applied

Step 24: Staggered Base in Action!

Remember I opted to move the base forward slightly? Here's why I did it in the back too. Having the gap allows for the unit to sit up flush against the wall without the existing baseboard trim to be cut.

Step 25: Bring on the Shoes!

Notice the wellies and tall boots are accommodated perfectly in the larger cubbies at the bottom. This thing was big and HEAVY so take that into consideration if you're going to take this project on.