Introduction: Shoe Tower - a Free Standing, Multi-tier Floating Shoe Rack

Shoes take up a lot of space. This is a known fact.

In a room as small as mine, space is valuable and the shoe pile that I used to maintain in one corner of my room often became unmanageable as the shoes spread out across my room and enveloped what little floor space I had.

Not any more! With a combination of the Ikea floating shoe rack and some ideas of my own, I've created this free standing shoe rack/tower which stores my shoes in an attractive way without the need for cardboard boxes or shelves. WIN!

This design is easily expandable and the strength of the steel bars I've used to support the shoes means it could easily be extended to house 3 pairs of shoes side by side. It would also be easy to build one which extended up higher to accommodate more shoes than I have.

I've entered this into the Homemade Christmas competition as I think it'd be a great gift for any of the disorganised people in your life.

I hope you like it! Comment and rate please.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Materials

Here's a list of tools and materials that you'll need to complete this project.

  • screw driver
  • tennon saw
  • hacksaw
  • carpenters square
  • some clamps
  • pencil
  • pretractor
  • drill with 3mm and 5mm bits
  • a scrap of sandpaper

  • 1 2100 x 70 x 18mm planed timber
  • 3 1m lengths of 4mm threaded steel
  • 6 1.25" x 8 screws
  • 18 4mm nuts
Approximate cost: £10

Step 2: Marking and Cutting the Wood

Picture 2 shows the dimensions of the pieces you will need to end up with.

Draw a line perpendicular to the edge, 600mm from one end of the timber. From this draw a line 15 degrees from the vertical (pic 3), this will give the slant on the shoe tower so it doesn't just fall over forwards. You will need two of these 600mm long bits, with a 15 degree wedge cut of the end of each. They will form the uprights of the shoe tower.

For the feet of the tower, 2 250mm long pieces of wood are required, with the same 15 degree wedge cut out of the end of each. Picture 3 shoes one of the feet drawn onto the wood. Cut along the slanting line then measure 250mm from the pointed end remaining to find the line to be drawn for the next cut.

Once all the pieces have been cut to size, sand off any lightly splintered edges with some medium grade sand paper. I used 120 grit and used the pieces as sanding blocks as I couldn't find mine!

Step 3: Marking and Drilling Holes

It is important that you mark and drill holes in the correct positions, otherwise your shoes won't lie flat when in their spaces. For trainers the steel bars should be on corners of a rectangle 70mm x 40mm. Flip-flops need the same width of rectangle but only 25mm high. Pumps or other girly shoes I don't own would need slots somewhere in between these heights.

The diagram in picture 1 should illustrate this well. Picture 2 is the same diagram rotated to give a better impression of how the finished stand should look.

I used a scorer (correct name please?) to mark a faint line which left a 40mm seperation between the holes once marked, then marked along these lines the positions of the holes.

There are further pictures to illustrate the process I undertook to mark and drill the holes. The 5mm holes are where the threaded steel rods are slid through, the 3mm holes are pilot holes to allow you to screw the feet of the stand to the inside of the uprights. The 3mm holes go all the way through the feet and part way through the uprights.

Please note: I left an "X" off my diagram, picture one has a comment to show you where an additional steel bar should go.

Step 4: Assembly of Wooden Parts.

Screw the feet to the uprights so that the feet are on the inside and the screws go from the inside, through the feet and into the uprights.

A neat trick the align them well once you've drilled the pilot holes is to start screwing the screws into the feet until the tips of the screws start poking out the other side, these can then be slotted into the pilot holes in the uprights and driven home with a few final turns.

Step 5: Marking, Cutting and Preparing the Steel Rods

Mark your threaded steel rods so that you cut them into lengths 330mm long. I found a Sharpie was best for this.

Clamp against something solid to stop them rolling around then chop them up with a hacksaw. You'll need 9 lengths for a stand 4 tiers high (4 pairs plus a brace across the back of the legs). Careful on this part, go slow and steady and you won't end up with the end of your rods mangles, this could make threading the nuts onto them harder.

Grab your nuts (no not those you dirty bugger) and thread one onto the end of each of the threaded rods until they're about 30mm from the end. These are the nuts to hold the two wooden frames apart.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Slot one of each of the rods into the holes on one side of the wooden frame. Add a nut to the end of the rod on the other side and do up the nut on the inside tight so that there is very little thread poking out on the outside.

Lay the frame flat on the floor and drop the second part of the frame on top. Screw the final nuts down on top and screw the inside ones for that side up to meet the frame.

Tighten up all the nuts with a spanner to stop them coming undone and stand it up the right way.

Step 7: Finished and Photos From Others

Load up your shoe tower with shoes and sit back and enjoy your new lack of a shoe pile.

Thanks to the people that took inspiration from my ible and made their own. Pictures below!

Homemade Holidays Contest

Runner Up in the
Homemade Holidays Contest