Introduction: Shou Sugi BanD Saw Boxes

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Use the Japanese Shou Sugi Ban technique on bandsaw boxes.

Step 1: Tools/Materials

Tools

  • Bandsaw (may be able to get by with a jig saw)
  • Propane/fire source (*)
  • Router (optional)
  • Sander (optional)

Materials

  • Tree branches
  • Glue
  • Acrylic Paints
  • Sand paper
  • Denatured Alcohol (optional) (*)

(*) Hey anything involving fire and alcohol has to be fun

Step 2: Find a Good-sized Branch

This will be the base of your box.

We're basically going to hollow out the inside, so get a good size.

The starting branch here is a little to long, so . . .

Step 3: If Needed, Trim Branch Down to Size

If your branch is from the wild and is kind of long, use your band saw (or other means) to cut it down to the rough size for your box.

Here, I'm using a 14" bandsaw with 6TPI blade.

Step 4: Trimming Branch to Size, Cont.

There are a million ways to cut logs on a bandsaw, one way is to use the Carter AccuRite Miter Mill for Logs shown here. It's basically a sled that holds the branch as you slide the whole thing through the blade.

Sometimes it works, sometimes not so much.

Step 5: Flatten/Straighten Ends

Usually trimming the box down to size winds up making a not-so-level-looking top and or bottom, so . . .

Step 6: Flatten Ends, Cont.

One way to flatten is first to prop up your branch with clay or shims until it looks level.

Here, I used some clay under the branch to prop it up until it was sanding straighter. Then . . .

Step 7: Flatten Ends, Cont. : Glue on Some Rails to the Branch

Step 8: Flatten Ends, Cont.: Place on Router Table

Put the rails on the router table and raise the blade to just near the high spots on the branch. In the second photo you can see how the branch is tilting to the left and the right underside has the high spot.

Now . . .

Step 9: Flatten Ends, Cont: Use Router to Flatten Bottom

Run the rail sled over the router and raise the blade and repeat until the bottom is even. Here is a video demonstrating this.

Step 10: Flatten Ends, Cont: Remove Rails (Video Demo)

Pull off the rails from the branch.

This is a video demonstrating this.

Step 11: Flatten Ends, Cont: Repeat for Top If It Is Uneven

You can repeat the router process to even out the top side of the branch, but you could also push the branch through the band saw with the bottom end flush against the band saw fence. Either way you are now ready to start the Band Saw box part of the project . . .

Step 12: Cut Off Its Head!

This is one of the more confusing steps in making bandsaw boxes, but trust the art.

Sketch a rough line around the branch at about a half inch below the top.

Step 13: Cut Off Its Head, Cont.

Then line the branch up against the bandsaw fence and carefully push the branch through the blade.

Trust the art.

Step 14: Cut Off Its Bottom!

Admittedly not as dramatic, but repeat by slicing off about a half an inch slice from the bottom.

Step 15: Save and Mark the Top and Bottom Slices

We're going to use these again later, and it's very easy to get them mixed up.

I recommend marking the outer and inner sides of both top and bottom.

Step 16: Sketch Hole on Top

Step 17: Cut Hole (Video Demo)

Step 18: Cut Hole, Cont.: Result

Step 19: Glue the Split, Glue the Bottom

Step 20: Optional: Add Magnets

You can add a set of magnets to the top of the box and the box lid to help keep the lid in place.

First, tape a couple of straight pins or nails flat on the top of the box, then place the lid on the box and squish down.

Step 21: Add Magnets, Cont.: Mark Pin Dents

... this will put indentations on the top ledge of the box and on the underside of the lid which allow your magnets to line up

Step 22: Add Magnets, Cont: Drill, Glue Magnet Holes

For 6mm (aka 1/4i in) mini-magnets, I found a 15/64 bit worked pretty well. Drill the holes down a little deeper than the height of the magnet so glue and the magnets will both fit in the holes.

Step 23: Add Magnets, Cont: In-lay Magnets

Remember to glue the magnets that are inlaid into the top edge of the box should be one polarity facing up, and the magnets on the lid should be inlaid with the opposite polarity facing up. Otherwise the lid will slide off. Yep been there, done that.

Step 24: Sand Box and Lid

Sand the box and the lid with 150 then 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 25: Sand, Cont. : Wear Protection

Be sure to put on earplugs and N95 mask. But put them on YOU.

Step 26: Wipe Down Dust With Alcohol

Step 27: Oops, Wrong Alcohol

hee

Step 28: Burn

Now the fun part. Use a propane torch to lightly burn, like a well-done piece of toast, the box and lid.

Step 29: Burn, Cont.: Video Demo

Step 30: Brush Off Excess Soot

Step 31: Wipe Down/w Alcohol

Wipe down loose soot with alcohol of your choice.

Step 32: Paints

I used a variety of acrylic paints, water-based dye, and alcohol. Oh, scratch that, I didn't used the Merlot.

Step 33: Paint

I recommend applying the paint like you would stain: with a cloth. Note that gloves are really expensive these days so as a tip: buy XXL gloves, they are easier to remove and you can re-use them several times.

Step 34: Let Paint Dry

As the paint dries, it will look chalky and ugly.

Step 35: Add Polyurethane/Polycrylic

These photos show a box after its paint has dried and after polycrylic was applied. The poly will bring out a deeper, richer color.

Step 36: Ooh La La

Enjoy!

Step 37: Extra Credit: Add Shrinky-Dink In-Lay

Even more credit if you actually know what a Shrinky-Dink is.