Introduction: Simple IPod USB Charger
In this instructable, I will show you how to build a simple iPod charger! It's easy to make and modify, and is built to charge as fast as an official Apple USB charger.
Before we start, here's a little note:
###############################################################################
DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any damage of any kind to humans, materials, etc. by the use
and construction of this device. By using this device, you must agree to this condition. Otherwise, you
musn't use this device.
###############################################################################
Sorry for some bad pictures, but they seem to went through a pixelation filter while uploading. You can see the original pictures by clicking the "i" in the top left corner of the picture.
Also, sorry for my bad English.
Feel free to comment or to pose questions!
Are you ready? Let's get started!
EDIT: added pcb in Eagle format.
Before we start, here's a little note:
###############################################################################
DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any damage of any kind to humans, materials, etc. by the use
and construction of this device. By using this device, you must agree to this condition. Otherwise, you
musn't use this device.
###############################################################################
Sorry for some bad pictures, but they seem to went through a pixelation filter while uploading. You can see the original pictures by clicking the "i" in the top left corner of the picture.
Also, sorry for my bad English.
Feel free to comment or to pose questions!
Are you ready? Let's get started!
EDIT: added pcb in Eagle format.
Step 1: The Things You Will Need
To make this charger, you need this (common available) components:
-a 7805 voltage regulator
-a 1000µF, 35V electrolytic capacitor
-a 4.7µF, 15V electrolytic capacitor
-2* 100nF capacitors
-2* 5k (multiturn) trimmers
-a USB connector, type A, female; or you can demolish an old USB cable
-a power supply that can provide at least 7.5V, and 1200mA
-a DC jack
-wires
-sticky, rubber feet
-a prototyping board
-solder: use 60/40, raisin core solder
-a 5K/W or better heatsink with M3 mounting bolts
-silicon cooling paste
And this tools:
-a soldering iron
-a sponge (to clean your soldering iron)
-diagonal cutters
-tweezers may be handy
-a iron saw
-a basic range of screwdrivers
-a screw or a drill
-a solder sucker or desoldering braid
-a basic multimeter that can measure resistance, and DC-voltage
You will also need this skills:
-you must know how to solder, if not check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
-basic electronic skills
-you must know how to use your multimeter
-a 7805 voltage regulator
-a 1000µF, 35V electrolytic capacitor
-a 4.7µF, 15V electrolytic capacitor
-2* 100nF capacitors
-2* 5k (multiturn) trimmers
-a USB connector, type A, female; or you can demolish an old USB cable
-a power supply that can provide at least 7.5V, and 1200mA
-a DC jack
-wires
-sticky, rubber feet
-a prototyping board
-solder: use 60/40, raisin core solder
-a 5K/W or better heatsink with M3 mounting bolts
-silicon cooling paste
And this tools:
-a soldering iron
-a sponge (to clean your soldering iron)
-diagonal cutters
-tweezers may be handy
-a iron saw
-a basic range of screwdrivers
-a screw or a drill
-a solder sucker or desoldering braid
-a basic multimeter that can measure resistance, and DC-voltage
You will also need this skills:
-you must know how to solder, if not check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
-basic electronic skills
-you must know how to use your multimeter
Step 2: The Design
The charger is based on a 7805 voltage regulator. We use an adaptor to power the regulator with 7V or more, because it needs around 2V more than it's output voltage. The capacitors are used to smoothen the input and output voltage. The 2 trimmers at the USB connector are used to tell the device that it can charge at a 1A charge rate. I will tell more about adjusting them in another step.
Below, you will find the American and European version of the scheme.
I also added the board for both versions (it's universal). Feel free to post comments to make the board more effective!
Below, you will find the American and European version of the scheme.
I also added the board for both versions (it's universal). Feel free to post comments to make the board more effective!
Step 3: Preparing the Board
You don't need the entire board, that would be a waste off materials and money!
We will saw-off the piece that we need. To do that, bolt down your 7805 loosly to your heatsink. Don't apply cooling paste yet! When you've done that, place all your components on the pcb. When you've done that, take a picture of your lay-out. Then, take a marker and draw a line around the piece that you need. After that, take off the components, and saw your board.
We will saw-off the piece that we need. To do that, bolt down your 7805 loosly to your heatsink. Don't apply cooling paste yet! When you've done that, place all your components on the pcb. When you've done that, take a picture of your lay-out. Then, take a marker and draw a line around the piece that you need. After that, take off the components, and saw your board.
Step 4: Prepare the 7805
Now, apply a thin layer of cooling paste on the 7805. Spread it out, and bolt down the 7805 thight.
Step 5: Soldering Part 1
Now solder on the components that fit through the holes in the board. Clip off their wires, but don't connect them yet.
Step 6: Solder the Harder Components
We've now 3 components left: the second trimmer, the USB connector, and the DC-jack. They require an extra step.
For the trimmer and the USB connector, we need bigger holes. You can make them bigger by drilling a hole, or by using a screw. If you plan on using the screw, you need to take a screw with a sharp tip. Put it in the hole you've marked, and screw it in until you can see the pins will fit through the copper side. Make sure there's a bit of copper left around the hole, so you're able to solder the components. If you're ready with that, solder the trimmer, and the USB connector. You may need to bend the pins of the USB connector a little.
The DC-jack has 3 connections: 1 is going to the core of your adapter's plug, the 2 other connections are going to the side of it. Take your multimeter and measure the polarity of your adapter. Then, solder wires in the correct colors to the jack. In the pictures, I've used an adapter with a positive core, and a negative side. When you've soldered the wires to the jack, solder them to the pcb.
Look at the pictures for the result.
For the trimmer and the USB connector, we need bigger holes. You can make them bigger by drilling a hole, or by using a screw. If you plan on using the screw, you need to take a screw with a sharp tip. Put it in the hole you've marked, and screw it in until you can see the pins will fit through the copper side. Make sure there's a bit of copper left around the hole, so you're able to solder the components. If you're ready with that, solder the trimmer, and the USB connector. You may need to bend the pins of the USB connector a little.
The DC-jack has 3 connections: 1 is going to the core of your adapter's plug, the 2 other connections are going to the side of it. Take your multimeter and measure the polarity of your adapter. Then, solder wires in the correct colors to the jack. In the pictures, I've used an adapter with a positive core, and a negative side. When you've soldered the wires to the jack, solder them to the pcb.
Look at the pictures for the result.
Step 7: Connect Evrything
Now, connect everything according to the scheme. You can do this by putting a lot of solder on both pads, and than heating the pads, so they will merge. You may need to use some wires.
For the USB connections, look at the final picture. These are also the colors you need to use, if you use an old cable instead of a pcb connector.
For the USB connections, look at the final picture. These are also the colors you need to use, if you use an old cable instead of a pcb connector.
Step 8: Adjusting and Testing
Now it's time for a first test! Connect your charger to your psu and measure the 7805's output voltage. This should be around 5V. If the 7805 is getting hot without any load on the USB connector: disconnect the psu and check for shorts!
Then measure the voltage on the USB pins:
-Vcc should be 5V
-D- should be 2.8V --> you can adjust the D- trimmer until you become 2.8V
-D+ should be 2V --> you can adjust the D+ trimmer until you become 2V
-GND should be 0V
-the 2 pins on the housing may not be connected to anything
Then measure the voltage on the USB pins:
-Vcc should be 5V
-D- should be 2.8V --> you can adjust the D- trimmer until you become 2.8V
-D+ should be 2V --> you can adjust the D+ trimmer until you become 2V
-GND should be 0V
-the 2 pins on the housing may not be connected to anything
Step 9: The Final Test!
Now, connect your iPod/iPhone to the charger. If it doesn't say it's charging within 2-5sec, immediately disconnect the iPod and recheck for shorts or wrong connections.
Normally you will now have a working charger that will work much faster than your pc does. Enjoy! If there's a problem that you can't solve, feel free to post a comment (with a link to hi-res pictures of both sides of the pcb)!
Normally you will now have a working charger that will work much faster than your pc does. Enjoy! If there's a problem that you can't solve, feel free to post a comment (with a link to hi-res pictures of both sides of the pcb)!