Skull Sporran




Introduction: Skull Sporran

About: Ever find yourself walking through a store and see something you like and say to yourself; "I could make that" then you think "I could improve the design to fit my needs better, and make it chea…

A few months back I decided I wanted to try making a custom Sporran to wear with my Kilts, and stumbled across this video:

Now, I don't know how to do any Metal Working like he did in this video, but I loved the idea and decided to make a Sporran from a Resin Skull.

I searched all over and found this decent Resin Skull on Amazon:

I had no clue how I was going to accomplish making a Sporran out the Skull, but I was determined to make it work!!!

Follow along as I created my new favorite Sporran...

Step 1: Gathering Supplies

First thing I needed to do after I found and ordered the Skull was to figure what other supplies i needed.

Skull: (

In total I used the following items for the Build aside from the Skull:

  • 1/8" Tempered Hardboard (Masonite)
  • Black Suede Leather
  • Silver D-Rings
  • Silver Rivets (Double Cap)
  • Contact Cement
  • S-Biner: Micro Lock
  • Silver Twisted Link Chain
  • Large Snap
  • Small Spike Rivet

I had the Tempered Hardboard and Black Suede on hand from a past project I worked on. The D-rings, Rivets, Snap, and Contact Cement I had in my Leather Working supplies.

I purchased the Silver Twisted Link Chain and S-Biner Micro Lock (pictured above) from a local Home Improvement Store.

Time for Assembly...

Step 2: Splitting the Skull!

First thing I had to do was decide where I wanted to Split the Skull in half.

I wanted a large holding capacity, but also didn't want the Skull to protrude too far in front of me.

I decided to split the Skull right behind where the "cheek-bone" re-attached to the main Skull.

I used my Rotary Tool with a Cutting-Disk on a low RPM to slowly cut through the skull.
(it almost seemed like I was dissecting an actual skull and was both creepy and cool :) )

Step 3: Creating the Backing

I knew that I would need a fairly firm back for the Sporran and decided to use 1/8" Tempered Hardboard (Masonite) for the backing.

First I placed the Skull on the Hardboard and traced it out. I then cut out the basic shape leaving a little buffer in case I needed to adjust something.

After the rough shape was cut, I sanded as needed to get the exact shape I wanted.

Step 4: Attaching Backing

After I got the Hardboard Cut I started to run into my first of many challenges I had not thought of...

Challenge 1: With the Thickness of the Suede backing, when I wrap it, the back will be bigger than the Skull.
Solution 1: Shave a bit of the Hardboard off to accommodate the thickness off the Suede.

I used Contact Cement to attach the Suede to the Hardboard, and after a night of drying it was on for good!

I then Wrapped the Suede around the sides of the Hardboard to give it a nice clean look. After this was complete I ran into my second challenge...

Challenge 2: How to get the back to pivot open without creating gabs for items to fall through in the bottom.
Solution 2: Trim all of the uneven 'points' off of the bottom of the hardboard to have a clean Pivot Point and I can use the bottom Suede as a 'hinge'.

As you can see in the 4th Picture when I tried to peel the Suede off of the Hardboard, they would not separate, and instead removed a layer of the Hardboard.

I did a Test-Fit and everything seemed as though it was working.

Step 5: Sporran Chain Attachment

I realized that after I got all of the backing items ironed out and was about to move forward again, that I had forgotten to attach the 'loop' for the Sporran Chain to the suede before I glued it to the Hardboard.

Challenge 3: Attaching the 'loop' to the Backing now that it is already glued to the hardboard.
Solution 3: Use Double-Cap Rivets to attach it.

I placed 6 evenly spaced holes into the leather 'loop' and then used a drill to make the same holes in the hardboard backing.

Once this was complete, I attached the upper Rivets, placed the leather strap with D-Rings that I had made under the 'loop', then attached the lower Rivets.

Everything was now secure, and I could create the Belt/Chain...

Step 6: Creating the Belt / Chain

I cut two sections of chain just shy of 1'-0" long knowing that there would be a D-Ring on one side and the Micro-Lock Clips on the other.

I then cut, punched all of the holes, and dyed two leather pieces to use as the back 'Belt'.

After assembly I checked the length against another Sporran Chain/Belt I have to make sure the length was correct.

Step 7: Attaching the Back

Knowing that the Suede was very flexible, I knew that I would be able to press it into all of the nooks and crevices.

I used Contact Cement to attach the Suede at the bottom of the backing into the Skull to act as a 'hinge'.

Once it was dry, it worked even better than I had hoped!

Step 8: Closing It Up!

I decided to use a long strip of Suede about 3" wide to cover part of the back and use as 'sides' when the Sporran is opened (to limit the amount it will open).

I attached that with Contact Cement like all the rest and then got to work on a closure for the backing.

Challenge 4: How to attach a closure device to the Skull and Backing.
Solution 4: Use a decorative small 'spike' rivet for the skull, and a snap on the Backing.

I used a small scrap of Suede that I cut to act as a strap for the closure and to connect the spike-rivet to the snap.

Challenge 5: The stud for the snap was too short to go through the Hardboard backing and still make the attachment.
Solution 5: Use a Rivet Setter and Aluminum Construction Rivet.

Once everything was in place, I was able to close and open the backing with no problem.

I then used Contact Cement again to attach the sides inside the Skull as well as a small piece to cover up the last of the inside of the backing.

Step 9: Finished Product / Final Thoughts

I am very happy with the way this awesome new Skull Sporran turned out!

Three days after I finished the build I attended a Beer Tasting Fundraiser for the National Finals for the US Highland Games:
Celtic Classic ( )

I wore my new Skull Sporran with my Jolly Roger Kilt and got a lot of compliments and it worked great!

Final Thoughts:

  1. I would sew the 'loop' on the back if I make another.
  2. I would make the inside cover/sides one piece opposed to the two pieces I used.
  3. Possibly find another way of keeping the Sporran Closed.

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    1 year ago

    This is cool! I’m looking for Sporran patterns, this is going on the back burner for now. However I’ll attach the skull to the backer and cut a hole in the top, then flap the trepanning for access.


    6 years ago

    Still confused about how you would hold stuff in this. Do you open it all the way when you use it? Is it purely decorative?

    Awesome project, though!


    Reply 6 years ago

    Check out the last picture in step 8 (The view from above once the sides are on).

    That shows how far this opens.

    Like a Standard Sporran, it is meant to hold small items for when you are wearing a Kilt with no pockets.

    I put my Car Key-Fob, and Wallet in mine.
    I wear Sport Kilts and they have a hidden pocket in front of the waist so I put my phone in there.

    The only thing is that this Skill Sporran will not hold my flask :(


    Reply 6 years ago

    Ah, ok! That picture was kinda hard to make out what was going on until you said the sides are attached, but I get it now! That's really cool! Nice job!


    Reply 6 years ago

    Thanks! It was fun to make and now that I know what I am doing better, I think I might make one for my Etsy Shop and see if it sells :)



    6 years ago

    what about including the bottom jaw, hinge on the inside of the teeth so the skull leans forward at the mouth to open. rare earth magnets in the jaw socket to hold it closed. If you need extra hold you could attach a magnet closure inside of the top of the skull too.


    Reply 6 years ago

    I thought about that trying to incorporate the bottom Jaw, but it was completely separate from the Skull, and I would have had to do a LOT of attachment points, and there would have been a lot of gaps.

    I was worried that this would lead to more potential places of failure, and decided to keep it simple and functional.

    Cheers :)



    6 years ago

    This is so cool.


    Reply 6 years ago

    Thank you!
    It was definitely a learning experience to make, but was still a lot of fun.