Introduction: Sliced Deadpool LACK Table 2.0

About: My name is Britt Michelsen. I am a chemical engineer from Germany especially interested in computational fluid dynamics. To balance all the theoretical work, I like to make stuff in my free time

This is my 2.0 version of the "Sliced LACK table" I built in 2013. I moved recently and sadly couldn't disassemble it since I glued it in a few places. Furthermore it was never as stable as I wished it to be, so I decided to build a new and improved version.

This table is build from an IKEA LACK table. Although it is only standing on two legs, it is stable enough for me to sit on it. Even though this is a rather simple mod, it is going to get you quite a few puzzled looks.

Being a huge Deadpool fan girl I decided to pay him tribute by painting him on the table. Since he is constantly breaking the fourth wall in the comic books and at one point even tears up the pages he is in (Team-Up #885) I decided he would be perfect for this project.

Step 1: Stuff You Need

Stuff you need

  • LACK table from IKEA
  • 40 mm Aluminum profiles (make sure that the allow you to cut a M8 thread into the middle)
    • 2 x 40 cm
    • 4 x 44,8 cm corner connectors and M8 screws
  • Two 5 mm metal plates 10 x 50 cm (the actual length you need is 53 cm, but usually they are way more expensive than 50 cm plates)
  • 3 or 4 mm wooden plate 53 x 53 cm
  • 5 mm wooden plates
    • 53 x 53 cm
    • 33 x 50 cm
    • two times 3 x 10 cm
  • 4 x M8x40 screws (I used V2A ISO 7380)
  • 4 x M8x20 nuts
  • M8 thread cutter
  • Masking tape
  • Chisel
  • Paint (+ primer)
  • Wooden filler
  • Saw
  • Drill and drill bits (9 mm and 16 mm (and one that fit the nuts you are using))
  • Cheap rug (I used ÅDUM from IKEA)

As you can see in the picture, I tried using a 10 mm ply board plate, but due to the weight of the aluminum profile it started to bend. So I decided to use steel plates which worked really well.

Step 2: Preparing the Table Plate

You of course don't need to use a LACK table, but I decided that cleaning one out would be the easiest way to build the table.

Start by cutting along the table border with a utility knife, as shown in the first picture. There might be better ways to lift off the bottom plate, but I noticed that simply using a chisel worked well for me. After you removed the wooden plate the cardboard honeycomb-pattern can easily be taken out. Use a chisel to remove the wooden corners, as shown in the fifth picture.

To stabilize the table top I glued a 4 mm wooden plate (53x53 cm) to the inside it.

Step 3: Painting Deadpool

After seeing this awesome image by FonteArt I immediately knew that I wanted to use it. So I vectorized the image and made a stencil.

It is very important to sand and prime the Lack table before painting it. Else most paints will rub right off. Make sure that the paint you are using works with the stencil, I have had problems with glue residue all over the plate.

I was thinking about painting the speech bubble yellow, but decided against it.

Step 4: Bottom Plate and Aluminium Frame

The bottom plate has to be extremely rigid. I didn't wanted to weld the table, in order to being able to take it apart. Making the whole bottom plate from steel was to expensive and heavy for my taste, so I decided to use two 10 cm thick steel stripes.

Start by drilling two 10 mm holes two cm from the border into the steel plates, as shown in the pictures. Then drill four 20 mm holes into the big wooden plate. The distance from the border is also 20 mm. Glue the steel plates to the wooden plate as shown in the pictures. The wooden plate works as an distance holder and prevents the screws from scratching your floor.

Glue the other three wooden plates to the bottom plate as shown in the picture.

I decided to build the frame from aluminum profiles. In order to connect them you will have to cut a thread into the middle.

Step 5: Preparing the Legs

You will have to hollow out two of the legs. I used a chisel to do so.

What you do with the other two legs is completely up to you. I decided to cut them in an angle, to make the table look more interesting. Once you have cut the legs you will need to fill them since they are hollow. I used a 3D printed wedge which is of course a complete overkill, since you can use any old piece of wood. Drill a hole into the bottom of the pieces to fit a nut into them.

Step 6: Assembly

Next you will have to cut holes into the carpet to fit the legs through them. The last time I only shaved the rug, but cutting holes works a lot better. Make them as big as the aluminum profile (40 mm). I used little felt pieces to prevent the wooden plate from scratching up my floor. Place the rug on top of the bottom plate and screw the legs to it. Place the hollow LACK table legs around the longer aluminum legs and make sure that the are slightly shorter (You might have to shorten them depending on the thickness of you rug). Attach the top frame and place the table plate on top of it.

Congratulation you are done!

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