「8.8」DIY Laser Module

Designer:

• Snapmaker

Summary:

• There are lots of makers want to customize a Snapmaker Laser Module. And Snapmaker could do that, since Snapmaker can make 3D prints and mill PCB.
• In this tutorial, I will be making a demonstration -- How to make a custom Snapmaker Laser Module?

Score : 8.8

• Time: 6
• Difficulty to Gain Materials: 10
• Complexity: 10
• Post-processing: 8
• Knowledge Required: 10

Step 1: Prepare

Required Materials:

• Copper Clad Board
• Tamiya Spray Paint
• MR.HOBBY.Inc Mr.SURFACER 1200 blocking print
• 350mW Laser tube
• BOM
• Flat-head inner hexagon screws M3 x 6
• Abrasive paper: 400 Cw, 800 Cw, 1600 Cw

Required Equipments:

• Electric soldering iron
• Drilling machine

Required Software:

• Snapmaker3D
• SnapmakerJS

Required Files:

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894529

Step 2: Print the Shell

I used Snapmaker to print the shell. In the parameter section I chose "High quality" and have not added support. Since this model can be printed out even without support. If we add the support, the side attach with the support will be rough. Of course if we do not add support some part of the model are rough. Thus, it is much more saving in PLA material and have no use for post-processing (demolish the support) by comparison that we don't add support.

Step 3: Post-processing 1

Here I post-processed 3D prints using MR.HOBBY.Inc -- Mr.SURFACER 1200 blocking Paint and Tamiya Spray Paint TS-42. It will make the 3D prints look better.

First of all I used 320 Cw abrasive paper polish the surface of 3D prints. And Spray the 1200 blocking paint.Then I used 400 Cw abrasive paper polish it again. And Spray the 1200 blocking paint. Used 800 Cw, 1600 Cw abrasive paper repeat the processes. Until the 3D prints feels smooth. In the end I applied 3D prints Light Gun Metal with Tamiya TS-42 SprayPaint.

Tips: For each thin layer, spray 3-4 times until the color is uniform and the spray paint thickness is moderate.

Step 4: Mill PCB

Here I used CNC Carving Module of Snapamaker to mill PCB. SnapmakerJS software is powerful. There are lots of setting options allowing me to generate Gcode files easily.

I used the V-Bit tools to mill PCB. Here is my parameter setting:

Mill Layout :

• Cutting Diameter: 3.175
• Point Angle: 30
• Jog Speed: 800
• Work Speed: 250
• Plunge Speed: 500
• Carve Path: Outline
• Resolution: 256 x 256
• Size(mm): 「 40 x 40 & 33.5 x 59.7 」
• Target Depth: 0.08
• Step Down: 0.08
• Jog Height: 3
• Stop Height: 10

Cut the layout from the copper clad board ：

• Cutting Diameter: 3.175
• Point Angle: 30
• Jog Speed: 800
• Work Speed: 250
• Plunge Speed: 500
• Carve Path: Outline
• Resolution: 256 x 256
• Size(mm): 「 40 x 40 & 33.5 x 59.7 」
• Target Depth: 1.5 (According the thickness of your copper clad board; mm)
• Step Down: 0.2
• Jog Height: 3
• Stop Height: 10

We need to adjust the Size option above. Because the Size set in the software is the Size of the SVG file. There are blank Space in the SVG file, but what we really want is the Size of the pattern. So we need to set a value first, and then Preview after generating the Gcode to see if it's the size we want.

Tips：we could generate the Gcode of layout and Gcode of cutting together. And then upload them to the disk. Open Gcode of layout. When snapmaker finished, open Gcode of cutting.

Step 5: Post-processing 2

Punch some holes and solder the RJ45-VERTICAL.

Step 6: Assemble Them

To assemble it, we need connect the circuit board with electric wire.

Comments

[jeanluc.geronimi.1]

Hello, nice work.
Will it work with a 10w/20w (or more) laser or using a ready made laser module
They are getting cheaper now and you can find 20w laser modules for a good price.
I already have a1,6w laser module in my SnapMaker 2
Maybe I can just replace the laser “tube” ?

[mrwolfe]

I've been thinking the same thing. It might be easiest to 3D print an adapter to mount a higher power laser module to the Snapmaker rail. You would need a small amount of electronics to connect the new laser to the Snapmaker control. It would be worth checking whether the Snapmaker power supply can provide enough current for the laser as well.

Oh, and just a note on laser power: The modules you see on Aliexpress are pretty much all quoted as INPUT power, which is the amount of electrical power needed to run the laser. Very few vendors quote the actual optical output power. Some of them actually have very low output power. For example, some of the "10W" laser modules actually have a laser power output of around 2 Watts, and some are running the diode so hard that it will not last more than a few dozen hours. To date, there is no such thing as a blue laser diode with an optical output of greater than 6W. There are modules that use multiple diodes to give higher output power, but they aren't cheap.

Snapmaker achieve 10W by combining the output from 2 diodes. There is a 15W module available that uses 3 diodes, but it will set you back around $2000.

https://gigadgets.com/2021/05/31/plh3d-15w-the-mos...

[yeltrow]

I love the effort you have put into this. Could you please post the SCHEMATIC too? Even if it is hand drawn. Thank you!

[mrwolfe]

Try this:

[yeltrow]

Thank you so much for posting the schematic. That is very helpful!.

[mrwolfe]

You're welcome. Note that the inductor should be sized so that its saturation current is at least twice that of the output current. For the circuit as shown, an inductor saturation current of around 1A should be fine.

Selection of the output capacitors is also important. C5 will be a 1uF multilayer ceramic, and C2 should be a low ESR capacitor. If you want to use a more powerful laser diode, you will need to select a better inductor (as above) and you will need to select a different diode for D2, The SS26 schottky diode has a current rating of 2A, which should be fine for output currents up to 1A. If you want the circuit to output more current than this, D2 will have to have a higher current rating.

[allan.sheldon8]

Great to see this instructable posted. I’d actually like a 1600mw laser module but can’t afford one. How could I adapt this instructable to use a 1600mw laser?
...ps anybody else out there got any ideas for extra modules for Snapmaker?

[mrwolfe]

First you need a 1600mW laser diode :) You would need to change the value of R3 to change the output current for the 1600mW diode. The regulator is capable of driving 5A, but the board layout has no heatsinking (the regulator might overheat) and I have no idea how much current the SM1 controller can supply.

[MatthiasJ4]

What are the 4 pinout of the RJ45 Module ? 2 must be high voltage and 2 must be 5v for cumunication

[mrwolfe]

I've reverse engineered this layout, and the RJ45 pin connections appear to be:

Pin 1 Vcc (24v I think)
Pin 3 /Enable
Pin 5 Module ID
Pin 7 Gnd

The enable pin is either open circuit (laser off) or ground (laser on), and the module ID pin is a 150 ohm resistor to ground.

[SamuelR161]

This leaves out the fairly important steps of How/Where to install the laser tube, lens, etc. or what those PN's are. This also doesn't explain at what point you can upload the firmware. To that end could you simply choose to upload GRBL firmware instead? A response to this comment or finishing the Instructable would be fantastic!

[DIY Hacks and How Tos]

Cool. Lasers make every project better.

[Snapmaker]

Yeah, laser engraving module allows makers to create a project with a pretty outlook. Makers can also use it to make some delicate gifts. DIY a high-powered laser module is cool, such module allows makers to cut the plywood. Assemble the wood pieces to a beautiful creation.