Introduction: Spiderman Headphone Stand
Since it came out in theaters, and especially since it was released, we have watched Spiderman into the Spider-verse a lot in my house, and have enjoyed every time. When coming up with ideas for making a headphone stand, my son wanted it to be of his favorite Spiderman - Miles Morales.
Here's how we put it together
Step 1: Materials
Materials I used
4/4 Katalox (also called South American ebony)
Tools I used (with affiliate links)
Spiderman into the Spider-verse - https://amzn.to/2FjFpRR
Sony headphones - https://amzn.to/2FkhwK1
Inkscape – https://inkscape.org
Grizzly bandsaw - https://amzn.to/2UWwM6g
Dewalt planer - https://amzn.to/2UNeQuU
Dewalt miter saw - https://amzn.to/2UQPZX0
Wen jointer - https://amzn.to/2U3Mek0
Skil belt sander - https://amzn.to/2unXEkj
Gorilla glue - https://amzn.to/2U4x8uD
Clamps - https://amzn.to/2U0wD4S
Drill press - https://amzn.to/2UL76JX
Coping saw - https://amzn.to/2FnBZxG
Wood files - https://amzn.to/2Cv899W
Palm sander - https://amzn.to/2YcgGI5
Sanding sponge - https://amzn.to/2unPGaF
Polycrylic - https://amzn.to/2YgFBu3
Step 2: Designing the Stand
I found a picture of Spiderman wearing headphones - that inspired the design of this headphone stand. I brought the picture into Inkscape, and then used the trace bitmap to get the elements of the face, then used the shape tool to shape the area around the head. I created elements for the eyes, using a screenshot from the movie as reference.
I drew out a simple shape of a headphone stand, then merged it with the outline of the head to create the stencil I would need to cut out the maple and the katalox.
Step 3: Prepping the Wood
I took the katalox and maple, and used a jointer to even out the edges of the boards. I then took the katalox and ran it through a planer a few times to get the surface even. I cut the catalox into 3 pieces (1 for the stand base and one for the inlay pieces of the face), and cut the maple into 2 pieces (2 for the base and one for the outline of the face).
I took one piece of the maple and one piece of the katalox and ripped them into one 1/4" piece from each.
Note here: Katalox is EXTREMELY dense. It's one of the hardest woods on the planet, so ripping it is A LOT harder than cutting it (which is actually buttery smooth process). Be careful because it is easy to burn up a bandsaw blade (or 2) when trying to rip it to size.
I'm only saying that cause I may or may not have done that once (or twice).
Step 4: Making the Base
Using my stencil I created in Inkscape, I traced the shape of the base onto the piece of maple and the 2 pieces of katalox. I cut the shapes out on a bandsaw, then used wood glue and clamps to put the 3 pieces together.
At this point you could just call it an Oreo headstand and be done with it, but I think it needs a face.
Step 5: Making the Face Outline
I took the face outline I made in Inkscape and traces each piece onto the 1/4" piece of maple, then cut the outline of the face on the bandsaw. Using a drill press, I drilled holes in each of the sections of the face that needed cut out, then used a coping saw to cut all the shapes of the face out.
Note here: This process is a log easier with a scroll saw. I didn't have access to one at the time, so I ended up using a coping saw. I wouldn't recommend doing it, unless you are good at using a coping saw (which I am not). The reason I didn't use a laser cutter for this stage (like with other projects I've done in the past) is that katalox is too dense to cut on a laser cutter without burning it up.
With all the pieces cut out, I took some wood files and filed down the edges of all the cutouts. The rounder edges will help when I start adding the inlay pieces (as I try to get the pieces to fit as close as possible.
I then glued the face outline to the base.
Step 6: Adding the Inlay Pieces
I started by cutting out the pieces of mahogany for the eyes. I then added the maple center for the eyes.
Since katalox is so dense (I have the burned up bandsaw blades to prove it), it didn't take marks very well on the surface without rubbing off easily. To help this, I took the piece to the laser cutter and engraved the inlay shapes onto the katalox. This is a trick I'm going to do from now on, rather than trying to rely on my sometimes-wavering lines I draw by hand.
I took the piece to the bandsaw and cut out the sections - occasionally using using the wood files to finely shape the pieces to fit right into the stand. I then glued and clamped them all into the face.
Step 7: Sanding and Filling
I did a rough pass sanding Spiderman's face, which helped give me an idea of where I would need to fill in some of the gaps between my coping saw cuts (which were pretty bad) and the inlay pieces (which were less bad). I filled the gaps with a bit of wood glue, then used a scrap piece of mahogany (for the gaps by the eyes) and katalox (for the gaps everywhere else) and mixed the shaving in with the wood glue to create a pseudo filler
Step 8: Sand in the Place Where You Live
Next comes sanding. Lots and lots of sanding.
I worked from 80 grit up to 320 grit, trying to get the piece as smooth as possible. I also sanded down the edges to help round the sharpness out of holding it.
Note here: It weighs 14 pounds, so sharp edges were a no go
Step 9: Adding the Finish
I had to decide between using an oil based finish (like Maker Brand Co simple finish), or using a water based finish (like wipe on polycrylic).
I decided to go with the polycrylic because I didn't want an oil base finish to darken the mahogany, thus blending too closely in contrast to the katalox. I used matte polycrylic and added a few layer all around the stand.
Step 10: Enjoy!
With the polycrylic dry, you now have a headphone stand that is part spectacular Spiderman and part sensational Spiderman, and all completely amazing Spiderman... into the Spider-verse (you are welcome to roll your eyes at this point.
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