Squared Quilt-block Rainbow T-shirt From Old Tees

Make a cool, one-of-kind T shirt AND say no to "fast fashion" at the same time as this T is made completely out of old T-shirts! I am loving this t-shirt so much that there will be sure to be many more different iterations to come!

Supplies

• Old T-shirts
• Rotary Cutter
• Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Sewing machine
• Serger (or serger stitch on your machine)
• Thread
• Jersey knit needle for sewing machine

Step 1: Cut Squares

Cut your t-shirts into squares using a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat. I cut mine into 4" squares which gave me about 3"-sized squares once they were sewn. I used 8 different colors. I wanted to use a couple patterned variations of the solid (purple tie-dye and squiggle-stripes on navy blue) in order to give my T extra interest. You can decide if you like it or if you prefer all solids. I think in my next iteration, I will stick with various shades of blue and green.

Save all hems, sleeves and ribbing around the neck that you cut off. You will use them later!

Step 2: Sew Squares Into Rows

Arrange your squares by row and make sure you like the way it looks. Since green and blue are my favorite colors, I wanted these two shades running through the center.

Pick up each row, one by one in order, and sew the row together. Put the row back in place before picking up the next to easily keep track of the order of rows. My rows were 8 squares across and I made 7 rows.

Step 3: Sew Rows Together

You'd think that sewing the rows would be the easiest part of this project but it's the most challenging. That's because your squares have to align, seam to seam. AND I learned the hard way that too much bulk in the seam going through the serger can "chew" up the fabric or cause it to bunch up. So the trick here is to baste over each seam with a straight stitch on a regular sewing machine before running it through the serger.

This way you can alternate which direction the seams run to minimize seam bulk and tack these seams into place. For example, all seams on the top layer row will lay to the left, and all seams on the bottom layer lay to the right. It's tempting to skip this basting step but it will make all the difference in your squares aligning professionally.

Once you are done basting, sew the rows together with the serger, cutting off 1/4" of fabric as you go (automatically cuts with the serger).

Step 4: Cut Bodice Front

Now you have your front panel of the "squared" fabric from which you can cut your front bodice. I used a favorite t-shirt as my pattern. Choose a shirt that has a cut and fit that you like. Also, my tee didn't require sleeves - it's all one piece. Make sure you remember to cut extra for seam allowances if needed. I pretty much cut the actual shape of the tee/pattern because it was a roomy fit on me. I knew I'd have enough fabric for seam allowances.

I cut one side of the tee (left side) , then removed the "pattern" I was using and folded the front panel in half in order to cut the other (right) side. Using the left side as my guide to cut the right side (instead of my t-shirt "pattern") ensures a perfectly symmetrical front. It was easy to tell the exact center point for the fold with all the squares/rows.

Step 5: Cut Back Bodice

I used the only t-shirt where I had a large enough piece of fabric left to make a back bodice panel. I did have to piece two panels of this together to make it wide enough for the back bodice. Then, in similar fashion to step 4, use the back of your tee/pattern to cut your back bodice.

Step 6: Sew Bodice Front and Back Together

Now you are ready to put your shirt together! This is where the magic happens. First, with right sides facing each other of front and back bodice, sew the shoulder seams together.

Next, sew side seams together - again with right sides facing. Now try your shirt on and make sure it fits! At this point you can widen the neckline or the sleeve holes simply by cutting some away.

Step 7: Finish Neckline, Sleeves and Bottom

Here's the great thing about finishing the neckline and sleeves: You will use pieces from the t-shirt that you originally cut! I love that very little of these shirts will go to waste. Even the usable parts that won't be used for this project can be saved for another.

I used the mint/sage green hemline for my neck ribbing, and used the kelly green t-shirt hemline for the sleeve-finishing. The original t-shirt hems aren't ribbed but they work well for these spots anyway as they are already folded and uniform in width. They do make for a neckline narrower than a traditional t-shirt. If you seam-rip an actual T neckline ribbing and want a more traditional t-shirt sized neckline (rather than the scoop-neck I made), you can re-use this ribbing.

Let's start with the neckline:

With a tape measure, measure the circumference of the neckline. (First pic here). Then subtract about 1.5 - 2 inches and this will be the length of your "ribbing." For a smaller circumference neckline, you'll want to subtract about 1" and cut your ribbing that length. Some tutorials for t-shirt necklines will give you a precise formula to work out just how long the ribbing should be in relation to your shirt but the thing is, within this range I've given you, it will stretch to work so skip the formulas!

Once you have your neckline and arm hole "ribbing" cut to the right size, you'll need to make it one continuous loop. To do this you will seam rip the original hem in order to lay right sides of ribbing together, flat. (As seen in pic 3 here.) Straight stitch these ends together. (Also shown in pic #3.) Then open up seam and fold inside. You now have your neckline loop.

To pin the neckline ribbing along the neckline, place the ribbing seamline on the back side. The seam is very inconspicuous if it is near the shoulder but on the back of one side rather than right in the middle of the back. Then pin the rest of the neckline around, stretching it a bit here and there as you go so as to evenly distribute it. Raw edges facing out (right sides facing).

Baste with a straight stitch 1/4" away from the edge (regular machine), making sure there are no puckers or folds. Stretch the fabric while sewing as needed to keep it smooth. Remove pins. Then take it to your serger to serge neckline ribbing to neckline.

Sleeves/Arm holes:

Repeat the neckline steps above for the armholes/sleeves. Only this time you want your ribbing seam to be hidden under the arm and aligned with the side seam. Another option is to add sleeves - you can sew sleeves from one of the t-shirts you cut if that's the look for which you're going.

Bottom Band:

You can make this as wide or narrow as you'd like... Just know that you'll be cutting a width twice as wide as you want it plus seam allowances (add another 1"). My band was 4" wide which will make for a 1.5" bottom band width when I am done sewing. To figure out bottom band length, cut the band about 4" shorter in length than the circumference of the bottom of shirt. After cutting to this size, sew right sides together and fold the seams inside the band. Match and pin side seams of band to side seams of bodice. Find mid-point of band and pin to mark the spot. Mid-point of front bodice is easy with squares. Find midpoint of back panel of bodice and mark with a pin. Then match up the band midpoint to the bodice midpoint and pin. From there, ease and pin the rest of the band onto the bodice all the way around. Baste just as you did for the neckline and armholes. Then serge. And voila! Rock out your new shirt that is uniquely YOURS!

Step 8: Rock On, Joseph-Style

You've heard of Joseph and his coat of many colors... enjoy your squared-out T of many colors!

Stay tuned for other iterations of the "quilt-block" T-shirt. I can't wait to make more in different patterns! When I do make more, stay tuned for a drop to my Etsy shop for purchase.

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