Introduction: Steam Powered Potato Pistol 1.0
A grill lighter is disassembled and used as the heat source for the steam production along with some copper plumbing parts and 1/2" copper pipe. Some water is placed inside the barrel, a potato plug is inserted as an air seal and projectile, and a cork is used as a sudden pressure release. The flame from the lighter heats water to steam and the pressure increases in the barrel until the cork and potato can't hold anymore, then it pops and launches the potato to wherever it's pointed.
This is a prototype steam potato pistol and can be taken a lot further, but I'm just sticking to functioning basics here. Someday I would like to make one with a pressure gauge, quick release valve, and a better handle with the fuel stored inside the handle. I'm calling this version the SPPP1.
It is a little dangerous to build and use because of the flame and hot surfaces, flying objects, and steam; be careful. Playing with fire, pressure, and projectiles is always risky, even on this small scale. Don't shoot an eye out, I'm not liable for any injuries you incur with this. ;( What happened to that "not liable" category of Instructables anyway?
Tools:
Soldering torch
Pipe cuter
Jigsaw
Drill
Pliers
Parts:
- Various short wood screws
- Some leather strips from an old belt to hold the fuel bottle
- Some scrap wood for a handle
- Lead free plumbing solder and flux
- 4" length of 1/2 inch copper pipe
(3) 1/2 inch copper ST 90 degree elbows
(1) bag of copper plumbing pipe brackets
(1) candle/grill lighter
(1) Potato
(1) Cork
Step 1: Start Plumbing the Boiler and Barrel
Cut about 3.5 to 4 inches of 1/2 copper pipe for the barrel. After cutting the pipe make sure to file down the lip on the inside of the pipe formed from the pipe cutter.
Attach the three elbows together at the end of the barrel to form a curl and put a cap on the last elbow.
Dry fit all the parts as shown in the photo. Make the elbows form off to the side so a flame can heat water inside the cap.
Step 2: Sweat Those Pipes
Sweating pipes is soldering. Sweat the whole assembly together. This part took the longest for me because I have limited plumbing skills. One of my fittings took eight tries before I finally got an air tight seal. The key here is to make the joints completely air/water tight like real plumbing. After soldering, cool the barrel and blow into it with your mouth; there should be should be absolutely no air hissing sounds.
Gdawg at Instructables has a nice tutorial on How to Sweat (solder) Copper Pipe
Step 3: Make a Handle
This is a quickie handle that I'm showing in the pics. There are so many cool possibilities with this. Just cut some wood at angles and use the plumbing brackets to hold things together. Notch the top of the handle for the barrel to rest into. You will have to custom bend the brackets to make things fit nice. Also pre-drill the holes before inserting the screws.
Step 4: Attach the Fuel System
Get one of those long lighters and open it up. Pull out the trigger parts, wires, butane bottle, and hose with the metal tip. Not all lighters are same; in mine I had to keep a plastic slide switch that opens the fuel valve. You may have to make yours a little differently to function.
Bend a pipe bracket and attach it to the side of the handle so that the flame will burn just under the copper cap or boiler.
Insert the piezo clicker into the handle to make a trigger; this is what makes the spark to ignite things. Ground the black wire to the barrel and the long white wire gets routed to the ignition point under the boiler.
Screw a piece of leather to the handle and wrap it around the back to the other side. Fit the butane bottle in there and attach the leather again with a screw. This should hold the tank snuggly, but also let it slide a little. The slide switch to open the fuel valve hangs nicely on the leather strap. To turn on the gas you just push the butane bottle down a little until you hear the hissing; to turn it off you slide the tank up.
Now route the fuel hose and metal tip to the newly attached bracket under the boiler. Wrap the white spark wire around the base of the metal tip. Attach it in the hole with a twisty tie or something and use pliers to bend it so the flame base will be 1/4" under the boiler. The spark should jump from the metal tip to the bottom of the boiler, if it doesn't adjust the bracket until it happens.
See the pictures on all the above stuff.
Step 5: Add Water, Plug, and Shoot.
Add 1/8 teaspoon (about ten drops with eyedropper) of water into the barrel and rotate the whole thing upside down to route the water into the boiler.
Cut out a potato plug using an extra piece of scrap pipe and insert the plug into the barrel. This should have an airtight seal and want to push back out, it should not go far into the barrel.
Wedge the cork into the barrel; don't overdo it.
Move the butane bottle down to open the fuel valve.
Click the piezo clicker to ignite the flame.
Point and wait about 1 to 2 minutes.
POP! The spud should fly; mine has a range of about 25 to 35 feet.
If it takes much more than 2 minutes to pop, then turn off the flame and let it cool off for a while; either the air leaked around the potato and cork or the cork was in too tight.
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111 Comments
8 years ago on Step 5
Interesting! But if I were you, I would place the gas pipe and the wire into the big pipe. Doing so when you press the lighter there will be a small explosion and ... Boom!
Reply 8 years ago on Step 5
I like that idea! I'll take it up a step and would maybe even do electrolysis inside a compression chamber with a grill ignition. I like keeping water in the equation.
10 years ago on Step 5
or stuff the end of the offending tuber in to said gun. there yr seal.
10 years ago on Introduction
too many problem with it . mee thinks?
11 years ago on Introduction
I built one with the pipes out of my neighbors crawl space. Just kidding. But If you want to find copper pipes check Home Depot or Lowes, or what ever home improvement store you like best.
11 years ago on Introduction
really cool i am making 1 2
11 years ago on Introduction
did u make it up?
11 years ago on Introduction
dude this is amazing im blown away :O
steam punk is awesome
12 years ago on Introduction
hey, i was just wondering what the reason for the barrel bend being over the top like that is? does it serve a proper purpose or would you be able to achieve the same thing with just a 90 degree downwards bend? thanks
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
Both for looks and some function; but I think your idea would work too.
12 years ago on Step 2
Nice Instructible! I love this kind of project and may have to try this with my son.
One tip for sweat soldering: (I certainly don't do this every day, but several times a year for the last 20 years or so). I finally gave up on using the tiny brushes for the flux and just use my finger to spread it onto the joint before soldering. I seem to get a lot more consistent results that way.
12 years ago on Introduction
one follow up to that would also be instead of soldering or perhaps as well as using some form of epoxy putty or perhaps 'gungum' the exhaust putty' that should hold up under extreme temps =]
12 years ago on Introduction
Hey nice ible but wouldn't it be easier although more gas consuming to use one of the jet type lighters that way you would also negate the wind effects if your outside and make ur steam much faster just a thought =]
14 years ago on Introduction
A few questions I thought of while reading: Where did you get the measurement of water? Does anyone know the pressure rating on copper? Did you avoid using a valve to prevent a boiler explosion? Maybe a water-heater pressure releif valve would be beneficial in a later version? I really like the idea of using the grill lighter for a flame source. I might make one based on yours with a pressure gauge, valve, and some shielding around the flame to keep it more reliably lit outdoors. I'll have to wait 'til I get some play money saved though I think.
Reply 14 years ago on Introduction
I guesstimated the water amount, I haven't played with different amounts. I'm going to try less water yet for possibly faster steam production and shots.
I haven't calculated the pressure rating, but I will soon for the next one. This site has some cool info on bursting pressure: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pipes-pressure-rating-t_40.html
I assume the cork should blow before the copper.
Definitely the next one will need safety features such as that water-heater pressure relief valve...good idea.
Reply 14 years ago on Introduction
As long as there isn't too much water in it I would imagine the solder joint would have to melt before a setup with a valve would blow. I don't think with just a stopper you could plug this sort of gun enough to blow. If you wanted to really go all out making the next one from black iron with one of those jet style lighters to heat in a more rifle shaped form would be the most out there shape I could see this project taking. I might just draw up a plan for such a thing.
Reply 14 years ago on Introduction
Excuse the crude diagram, but this seems like it would be a nice set of refinements to your idea. It should be safe and more informative as well. You don't have to turn around to load the water where it needs to be as well. Brass ball valves are pretty cheap and should hold up to the heat pretty well too.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
I had a thought while at Home Depot looking through their brass valves and such. Would the pressure gauge really be necessary if you had the safety release valve? You would just always know the chamber pressure was less than the pressure of the valve unless steam was coming out of it.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
it wouldn't be needed for safety, but it might be nice to have so you know when it's ready to fire off or for experimentation uses.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
I think this diagram is pretty neat. However, with more volume in the chamber pre-valve I think you would need more water and more heat to get up to pressure.