A standing desk with hidden wiring not only presents a minimalist, neat aesthetic but is also practical. This guide will provide step-by-step instructions on how to construct such a desk. The design features hidden cables, a concealed wireless charger, and secret compartments for optimum functionality and efficiency. Make sure to watch the video as well for full context.

Supplies

Materials:

Standing desk: This will be the base for our project. Mine is from a company called LINAK but any will do
Wooden boards: Needed for constructing the hidden drawer.
Drag chain: Internal dimensions of mine are 10x15mm
Aluminum channel: Houses the drag chain.
Power bar: Central hub for all your power needs.
3D-printed spools: For managing any excess cables.
Wireless charger: Provides a neat wireless power solution.
Power sockets: Additional power sources for your devices

Tools:

Handheld router: Used for hollowing out the table for the wireless charger.
Pocket hole jig and screws: Essential for constructing the drawer.
Drawer slides: Enables the drawer to move in and out smoothly.
Welding tools: May be required for securing the drag chain.
Saw: For cutting the wooden boards for the drawer.
Screwdriver: For various installation processes.
Drill: Useful for creating pocket holes and securing hardware.
Measuring tape: To ensure accurate dimensions.
Paint or wood stain: To give your desk a polished finish.
Safety gear: Gloves, eye protection, etc., are crucial for safety during the process.

Step 1: Wireless Charger Installation

Before assembling anything, I measured where I wanted the wireless charger and marked how big the hole for the charger should be. While you might be able to cut the hole freehand, I'd suggest making a frame as a template. Then using a flush trim bit with the bearing on top, which will rest against this frame, I left about 3mm of material on the desk. Using the frame made the fit quite tight which is good, as I want to avoid any unsupported area. To get better range with the wireless charger, I disassembled the chassis of the charger and used just the circuit board in the table. In order to hold it in place, I considered using glue but ended up just placing some spacers on the charger and securing it with a plate screwed to the table.

Step 2: Drag Chain Installation

The easiest way to do this is to get a suitable drag chain (10x15mm inner dimensions in my case to fit both cables) and then finding an aluminium U-channel where it can fit neatly. Personally, I couldn't find one the right size so I ended up using two L-channels attached together. To measure the length of the channel and the chain, adjust the table to its lowest position, then measure the distance between the tabletop and the leg of the table. Your channel should fit here. Ideally, leave some gap as well. Now you can mount the channel to the tabletop. I used a 3D printed bracket for easier mounting. The channel is mounted vertically parallel to the leg and the distance should be determined by the bending radius of the drag chain. With the channel installed, you can feed the wires through the chain and attach the chain as well. One end should be at the base of the legs, and the other point should be at the very end of the aluminium channel.

Step 3: Desk Assembly and Drawer Design

First, we have to put our desk together - just the desktop and the legs. In my case, it was just a matter of screwing it straight to the tabletop. Once the desk is ready, I planned the size of the drawer around the frame of the legs. You may have to adjust it for the size of your desk, of course, but I'm including a plan with dimensions of my desk for reference. On the backside of the table, I decided to leave enough space for the monitor stands. I also left some gaps on the front and sides which makes the drawer more subtle and only visible from certain angles. I didn't want the drawer to be wider than the legs as it would interfere with the drag chain mechanism. At this stage, I would also suggest drilling any holes on the desktop with a hole saw for cable management for the PC.

Step 4: Drawer Assembly

With the list of all the pieces, I cut everything down to size with my table saw. For various cut-outs, I used a jigsaw and a handheld router. All of the pieces were sanded with 120-grit sandpaper to achieve a similar texture. When assembling the drawer, I used pocket holes to put it together. These pocket holes are visible but only from the inside which doesn't bother me personally. You might use a different technique if you want to avoid visible screws. Once assembled, I painted the drawer white to match it with the rest of the table.

Step 5: Cable Management

With the drawer ready, it's time for cable management. I started with the high voltage cables. I ran all of the permanent wiring to a single spot in the "secret" compartment (The part covered by the drawer even when it's opened). This includes both external power sockets, power bar mounted in the drawer, the controller for the legs, and of course, the AC input wire. I connected all of them with Wago terminals. That way, they're always powered and don't take up any slots on the power bar.

With the power bar assembled, you can start drilling holes for the monitor and other peripherals you may want to plug in. For me, that was two holes at the back of the drawer compartment and one hole on the tabletop. To prevent the cables from drooping, I've designed 3D printed spools to wind the excess of the cable. And they can be printed without supports. And now it's just a matter of routing all of the wires for you PC. Have fun :)