Introduction: Super Mario Button Up Shirt

About: A person who enjoys making things!

Sometimes stores just don't have what your looking for and you need to make them yourself, I had an idea for a button up shirt with the Super Mario World map as a print and this was my end result. 

Step 1: Designing the Fabric

To design the print, I found an image of the map from Super Mario World online. Since it was pixelated I took it into photoshop and cleaned up the entire image. 

Once I had the map cleaned up I tiled it out to create the print. 

I printed the design out in a few different sizes to get the right scale that I wanted. 

This was my first time getting custom printed fabric and I'm sure it won't be the last because it is very exciting! I used Spoonflower  to get it printed and if anyone wants to purchase the same fabric I used you can find it here in my spoonflower shop.

This was also the most I've every spent on fabric, about $70.00 for 2 yards, but I did get the most expensive kind (Silk Crepe de Chine) and the quality was great. I was also worried about the print quality but the colors are bold, and the edges of the images and nice and crisp.


Step 2: Creating the Pattern

To create the pattern I took one of my shirts and traced it onto pattern paper. I marked all of the seams and edges, including the armhole. Since the shirt I traced didn't have sleeves, I drafted some from the armhole measurements.

Once I had the pattern traced, I checked to see if all of my seams matched and adjusted where needed.

I tested out my pattern by sewing a sample which worked out nicely and I was ready to start the real thing. 

Step 3: Cutting Put the Pieces

Cutting the pieces for this shirt was scary....I had one shot and just enough fabric to fit all of my pieces. Since this fabric runs in one direction, I had to lay the pieces upright ( I didn't want to map to be upside on any of the pieces) 

It was also a a little challenging to get everything to line up the way I wanted, I knew I wanted a good shot of the map on the front and back so I had to really plan out where to lay each piece. 

To get the center front to match exactly, I played around with layout the pieces, once I new approximately how they would work I cut out on side of the front. I ironed the center front and then positioned this piece on my fabric and pinned it in place. I also had to account for the overlap of the placket. Then I laid out my second center front piece, remembering to flip it over, and traced out the pattern.

This shirt consists of the following pieces: 2 fronts, 1 back, 2 sleeves, 2 cuffs, 2 collars and 2 collar stands.

Step 4: Sewing the Front Plackets

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
  • Ruler
Materials:
  • 2 Front Pieces - left and right sides
  • Thread
For the front pieces I made a faux placket by adding a an extra 2 inches to the center front which I folded to create the placket. 

Fold the placket edge in 1" on the front piece, wrong sides together, and press flat.

Fold over once more 1", this will enclose the raw edges, and press flat. 

From the correct side, stitch the placket in place catching the edge of the fold. Use your fingers to feel the folded edge while sewing,  and press flat. 

Add an edge stitch around the rest of the placket (neckline, center front and hem) and press.

Step 5: Attaching the Shoulder Seams

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
Materials:
  • 2 Front Pieces - left and right sides
  • 1 Back Piece
  • Thread
For the shoulder seams I used a french seam, I like these because they enclose the seam allowance which looks nice and feels great while wearing. 

Pin 1 front shoulder to 1 back shoulder, wrong sides together. 

Sew together with 3/8" seam allowance.

Trim off 1/8" of the seam allowance edge. 

Flip garment inside out and press edges flat.

Sew once more using 3/8" seam allowance. The edges are now enclosed.

Press the seam towards the back.

Sew seam down from the correct side, catching the edge of the seam allowance, and press. 

Repeat for opposite shoulder. 



Step 6: Attaching the Sleeves

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
Materials:
  • Fronts and back attached at shoulders
  • 2 sleeve pieces
  • Thread
Pin 1 shoulder along the front and back armhole, matching front and back notches, right sides together.

Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance. 

Add a zig zag to the edge of the seam allowance to prevent the fabric from fraying. 

Repeat for opposite arm. 

Step 7: Sewing the Underarm and Side Seam

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
Materials:
  • Fronts and back with sleeves attached
  • Thread
The side/underarm seams are sewn using french seams.

Pin the side seam and underarm, wrong sides together. Keep the armhole seam allowance pressed towards the sleeve.

Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance.

Trim 1/8" off the seam allowance edge.

Turn garment inside out and press the edge flat.

Sew once more using 3/8" seam allowance. 

Press seam towards the back.

Sew seam down from the correct side, catching the edge of the seam allowance, and press.

Repeat for opposite shoulder.

Step 8: Finishing the Hem

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
  • Ruler
Materials:
  • Shirt with underarm and side seam sewn
  • Thread
Fold the hem 1/4" wrong sides together, and press.

Fold a second time 1/4" and press.

Pin fold in place on correct side for easier sewing.

Sew folded hem from the correct side, catching the edge of the fold, and press.


Step 9: Attaching the Cuffs

Supplies Needed:

Tools
:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
  • Ruler
Materials:
  • Shirt with underarm, side seam, and hem sewn
  • Thread
Pin the side seam of the cuff, right sides together.

Sew together using 3/8" seam allowance. 

Add a zig zag stich to the seam allowance edge to prevent fraying. 

Press seam allowance to one side. 

Fold the top and bottom edges in 1/2", wrong sides together.

Fold cuff in half and press, use pins to match seams together.

Insert sleeve into cuff (the sleeve will be sandwiched in between both layers of the cuff) and pin in place. Make sure to line up to inner and outer cuff edges. 

Sew along the edge of the cuff, making sure to check that you are catching the sleeve and the inner cuff edge. I try to feel the edge as I'm sewing to make sure everything is lined up.

Optional - add a second row stitching about 1/4" away from the first, this will help to secure the seam allowance inside the cuff. 

Step 10: Attaching the Collar

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Iron
  • Pins
  • Ruler
Materials:
  • Constructed Shirt
  • Thread
Pin the 2 collar pieces, right sides together, leaving bottom open.

Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance, and clip corners.

Turn right side out, and press edge flat. Use a pin or something pointy to poke the corners out, being careful not to poke through the seam.

Add an edge stitch around the entire edge of the collar, including the bottom opening. 

Optional - Add a second row of stitching around the collar edge, it looks nice and will catch the seam allowance inside, helping to prevent fraying, press flat.

Take 1 collar stand piece right side up and lay sewn collar on top, lining up bottom of collar to top of collar stand, pin in place.

Take second collar stand piece and lay right side down over collar, line up with bottom collar stand, pin in place. Remove first row of pins to avoid problems during sewing. The collar is now sandwiched in between the 2 collar stand pieces. 

Sew around the collar stand edge using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving bottom open. 

Flip collar stand right side out, and press flat. 

Press bottom opening of collar stand edge in 1/2". I add pins here to keep the fold in place. 

Insert the neckline into the collar stand. I start out by pinning the neckline to the back edge of the collar stand, and once that's in place, I begin pinning the top edge, removing the first set of pins as I go along. This seems to be easier to get everything lined up correctly.

Sew along the edge of the collar stand, making sure to catch the neckline and the back of collar stand, press flat. Optional- continue  stitch around entire edge of collar stand.


Step 11: Creating the Buttonholes

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Sewing Machine
  • Scissors
  • Button Hole Foot
  • Pins
  • Ruler
Materials:
  • Constructed Shirt
  • 1 Button
  • Thread
Notes about the button holes:

I have always avoided sewing anything with buttons because I was afraid of using the buttonhole foot but it is incredibly easy to use, so if you have the same fear, just try it out a few times and you will be amazed at how easy it is. *Thanks Youtube : )*

Mark out your button placement on your placket, I used pins here and spaced them out every 3" beginning 4" from the bottom hem.

Load one of your buttons into your buttonhole foot and attach to your sewing machine. 

Set your sewing machine dials to the buttonhole setting.

Every machine is different but mine has a buttonhole lever that needs to be pulled down also, it is located next to the needle. 

Position your placket where you want your buttonhole and sew.

Repeat for all of your buttonholes. 

Once sewn use scissors or and x-acto knife to cut the slits open.




Step 12: Adding the Buttons

Supplies Needed:

Tools:
  • Scissors
  • Needle
  • Pins
Materials:
  • Constructed Shirt
  • Buttons
  • Thread
To add the buttons I pinned the front placket together, beginning at the bottom hem. Since the front of my shirt had a continuous image that needed to line up exactly, I took extra care to line everything up.

To position my button, I take a pin and poke it through the center of buttonhole and that is where I start sewing my button.  

Repeat for all of your buttons.

Done!!


Step 13: Wear!

Wear and enjoy!

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