Super Toilet Plunger
Intro: Super Toilet Plunger
Toilet plungers are cheaply designed. Plunger handles inhibit use. Why? Worst time to discover design faults is during a crisis- when you need a toilet plunger!
Design problems
I found a cast-off aluminum cane, perfect to upcycle and improve my toilet plunger. I tapered the wooden handle and flared the aluminum tube creating a strong, overlapping connection. Secured with a few wood screws and finished off, the final plunger is much easier to use.
Design problems
- Too short- must bend over to use. Strains the back and reduces use of body weight to drive the plunger.
- Wrist extension (dorsiflexion)- weak wrist position. Damaging/tiring the wrist, which must transfer power from the body/arms to plunger.
- Handle surface area too small- resulting in painful contact pressure.
I found a cast-off aluminum cane, perfect to upcycle and improve my toilet plunger. I tapered the wooden handle and flared the aluminum tube creating a strong, overlapping connection. Secured with a few wood screws and finished off, the final plunger is much easier to use.
STEP 1: Materials and Tools
Materials
My tool list is not essential, but includes what I found useful:
- Aluminum walking cane
- Toilet plunger
- Waterproof paint
- Wood screws (5) #6 size, 1/2 " length
My tool list is not essential, but includes what I found useful:
- Wax pencil
- Center punch
- Hammer
- Drill
- 3/8" drill bit
- 1/8" drill bit
- Hacksaw
- Mitre box
- F-clamp
- Dremel
- Dremel Wood Shaping Bit
- Sand Paper 60 grit
- 5/64" drill bit
- Screwdriver
- Paint Brush
- Dremel silicone carbide grinding bit
STEP 2: Mark, Drill, Cut the Aluminum Cane
Waist high is a good length for the improvement. Allow additional 3" for the overlapping connection. Mark the tube to length.
2" from the cut will be two strain relief holes, on opposite sides. Use the center punch to mark / start these holes.
To split the tube into flanges (langets ?), draw lines from the relief holes straight down to the cut mark.
Punch starts for the 5 wood screws between the split lines.
Drill the relief holes with the 3/8" bit.
Drill the screw holes with the 1/8" bit
Cut the tube to length.
Cut the split into the bottom of the tube.
2" from the cut will be two strain relief holes, on opposite sides. Use the center punch to mark / start these holes.
To split the tube into flanges (langets ?), draw lines from the relief holes straight down to the cut mark.
Punch starts for the 5 wood screws between the split lines.
Drill the relief holes with the 3/8" bit.
Drill the screw holes with the 1/8" bit
Cut the tube to length.
Cut the split into the bottom of the tube.
STEP 3: Taper the Wood Handle
A reliable way to taper the handle is to remove consecutive layers of wood, in successively shorter lengths. I tapered the wood handle to extend past the relief holes about 1".
Draw a ring around the handle's circumference. Work from the mark to the end, using the wood shaping bit to remove strips of the first layer. Do not apply extra pressure.
Draw the next mark closer to the end and cut.
Mark and cut.
Mark and cut.
Mark and cut.
.
.
.
Use sandpaper to smooth out the blocky taper.
Draw a ring around the handle's circumference. Work from the mark to the end, using the wood shaping bit to remove strips of the first layer. Do not apply extra pressure.
Draw the next mark closer to the end and cut.
Mark and cut.
Mark and cut.
Mark and cut.
.
.
.
Use sandpaper to smooth out the blocky taper.
STEP 4: Fit Together
Tamp the two parts together snugly, if the taper is good.
Drill pilot holes for the wood screws using the 5/64" drill bit. Drill to the depth of the screw. This will help prevent splitting the hardwood when setting the screws.
Insert the screws(prototype done!)
Drill pilot holes for the wood screws using the 5/64" drill bit. Drill to the depth of the screw. This will help prevent splitting the hardwood when setting the screws.
Insert the screws(prototype done!)
STEP 5: Finish
Double check the action. Good height? Snug connection?
If all is good, disassemble and paint the wood to protect it.
Grind / bevel the flanges, deburring the metal using the Dremel grinding bit.
Reassemble - DONE!
Thoughts:
If all is good, disassemble and paint the wood to protect it.
Grind / bevel the flanges, deburring the metal using the Dremel grinding bit.
Reassemble - DONE!
Thoughts:
- The cane I used was height adjustable, two pieces telescoping for adjustment. I'd keep this feature next time. As I mentioned in the design goals, waist-high is a good height. However, my waist is not the same height as others. By fixing the length to me, the plunger is a bit too long for most.
- Thanks to KaptinScarlet and slambert for illustration Instructables!
32 Comments
fredellarby 11 years ago
CrLz 11 years ago
mistic 12 years ago
bowmaster 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
Something like this perhaps- my kayaking bilge pump attached to the plunger head. Add some tubing on the out spout and your idea would work.
The kayak pump is not really heavy duty, but it does feature one-way flow and handles a large-bore of water... I'll put this one on my to-do/experiment list and get back to you!
bowmaster 13 years ago
Barcode80 13 years ago
VagsmaCutter 13 years ago
ehrichweiss 13 years ago
Robot Lover 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
RE ehricweiss's ?: I pull more than push (just as n0ukf suggests), greatly reducing splash. Better typically to loosen a plug, than trying to push further down system. Either way, the longer handle keeps me a safe distance from burps. Having more hand control allows for more finesse also.
I suspect I'm the only person in the world that is concerned about toilet plunger finesse...
freakyqwerty 13 years ago
CrLz 13 years ago
freakyqwerty 13 years ago
VagsmaCutter 13 years ago
** Your results may vary. This comment was included for educational purposes only. Use at your own risk!
Seanie11 13 years ago
kyle brinkerhoff 13 years ago
joen 13 years ago
Think again
kyle brinkerhoff 13 years ago
joen 13 years ago
Hopefully you will be smarter than I was, LOL
Take care