Introduction: THE ULTIMATE SANDING BLOCK
Introduction :
I always wanted to make a sanding block where I don’t have to hold the sand paper in place, and where the grit change goes really quick.
I found a sanding block in a online store which can do exactly what I want. So I decided to make one my own. I don’t know if my mechanics are the same but I made it as simple as possible.
My YouTube Channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0HAg66Em50PZyVGQ0LTDOg
Supplies
What you will need :
- 1/2" (12mm) Plywood
- 3/4" (21mm) Plywood
- 3/8“ Axle (A tube, a rod or even a wooden dowel will maybe work)
- Wood glue
- Screws
- Sanding belts
The tools that I used :
- Table saw
- Band saw
- Miter saw
- Power drill
- Drill press
- Disc sander
You can also use other tools to do some of the steps like a jig saw or even a hand saw.
Step 1: Cutting the Lever
Next I have drawn the shape of the lever to 21mm plywood, drilled the hole and cuted it also out at the band saw.
After that I have sand it to the final shape.
Step 2: Cutting the Three Layers
I first have cut out the parts of the three layers from 1/2"(12mm) and 3/4"(21mm) plywood. The top and bottom layer are identical except the hole for the axle.
The center layer is almost identical to the two other layers. Just the dimensions are different.
You can cut out the shapes with the tools you prefer. I cut it with the table saw. But a band saw or even a jig saw will work also. Cutting by hand should also work if you have the skills.
Important is, that each small part easily can slide in the associated bigger part.
Step 3: Cutting the Center Layer to Final Shape
Then I have drawn the final shape of the center layer to the plywood and have cut it out at the band saw.
Step 4: Making the Axle
Then I have cut the axle to length. I used a steel tubing. A solid steel rod or a wooden dowel from hardwood should work too. Use what you have on hand.
Step 5: Assemble the Basic Sanding Block
The next step was, to glue up the parts. I used glue and nails for all the pieces, except the top layer. To have the top layer removable, i just screwed it on, just in case I have to make some adjustments.
Before I screwed it finally together, I set in the axle and the lever.
Step 6: Bringing the Sanding Block Into the Final Shape
The last step was to cut and sand it to the final shape. I have cut the angle on the front on the miter saw. then I have sand the bigger radius at the back of the sanding block in small steps. I just have grind a small amount of material in each step, and tried the sanding block with a sanding belt after every step until I had the radius as big as the locking mechanism works perfect.
And then I made the final assembly.
Step 7: Video of the Making :
Step 8: Instructional Document (Plans)
UPDATE :
Due to the corona crisis, I lost my job. I get financial support from the state until I find a new job but for a maximum of 1 year. Since this financial support is a lot less than I got before, I am dependent on earning a bit of money on the side. So I decided to sell the plans for the sanding block from now on.
If you want to support me with the purchase of the plans, you can order it here :
www.isimplybuiltit.com
Thank you very much.

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30 Comments
3 years ago
Hallo Philipp,
ich habe das Geld überwiesen und weiss nicht wie ich an die Pläne komme.
Kannst du mir helfen.
Danke im voraus.
Jürgen
3 years ago
Amazing job! Thanks so much for sharing all of the wonderful details. I can’t wait to build a couple of them!!
3 years ago
Great project and thanks for sharing the detailed plans.
You obviously spend a fair bit of time on the instructions as making the item, well done.
It's good to see how you make the adjustable slider mechanism.
After seeing your good design, and pondering about it, I have come up with a slightly different method of using 2 x 15deg wedges top and bottom to tension the slider, (see attached) this gives several advantages (i think) ...
- gives a continuous flat edge to sand through no gaps in the flat planes.
- no pivoting mechanics to make, trim & wear out.
- less complex to make.
- easier to cut using straight cuts (a drop saw only).
- design allows for a ~10mm of tension movement (but could be modified it you want more).
- for different length belts just make up a new longer leading wood section to suit and keep the old one as a spare for when needed
Reply 3 years ago
Hi. That's a good idea. For some of us, this will be the right solution. My goal was to make it fast in belt change. Unlock, belt on, lock. But for some who has not all the tools which are needed, this seems to be the perfect alternative. Good work.
Question 3 years ago
Great project !!! Thanks so much for taking the time to lay out all the instructions, drawings, and video - they were so well done !! One question though. You indicate that the large piece of the top layer should be screwed in, but the instructions show the position of the screws on the larger piece in the middle. I know that the larger piece in the middle is supposed to be glued in place so how do I transfer the position of the screws to the top piece ??
Thanks so much !
Jim S
Answer 3 years ago
Hi and thank you for your comment. The positions of the screws are not really important. I drew it that way in the instructions just to show that you have to pay attention to the position in the middle layer. Not that you accidentally screw the screws into the cavities.
3 years ago
As others have said, it would be nice if there were measured plans for this build; especially the cam and the pivot point positioning. Going to your U tube page only pointed me back to this instructable.
As an instructable, we need a little more than just "how I did it".
This is a great little sanding block and I can figure it all out.
Reply 3 years ago
There is a Instruction Document with Drawings you can download on this Page.
Reply 3 years ago
THANK YOU. The pdf I downloaded was the Instructables' pdf of your article, not your specific plans/tutorial; that's why I didn't see any drawings. (And us Luddites in the US appreciate your converting to inches.) ;-)
Question 3 years ago on Introduction
What size of sanding belt did you use?
Answer 3 years ago
There is a Instruction Document with Drawings you can download on this Page. In the Document you can see which Belt i used and how to adjust the dimension to use other length of belts.
Reply 3 years ago
Very unique sanding block, thanks for the reply.
3 years ago on Step 8
Nice design! But I wish you'd given us a plan drawing of the lever/cam and sliding piece together, so we could how the cam works. You undoubtedly made such a drawing when you were designing the thing, so why not show us that? That way we could understand the principle, not just the specifics. :-)
Reply 3 years ago
There is a Instruction Document with Drawings you can download on this Page.
3 years ago
Nice work!
I'm afraid I'd be too lazy for this. God, wish someone made a printable 3D model from/for this!
3 years ago
Very clever idea!
3 years ago
genius
3 years ago
Well done instructions, Philipp. I plan to make some 3"x21" sanding blocks soon. And better than kudos, I sent you a token for your effort.
"A person who can make things with their hands will always find happiness."
3 years ago
looks good. very complicated.
years ago i needed one and i took a piece of 2x4x4" long, wrapped the sandpaper around it and stapled the edges to the block and voila... withing a couple of minutes i had a sanding block and I still use it...
3 years ago
This looks very good, I may build one for myself because I'm always trying different ways to hold the sandpaper using a block of wood. My last attempt rendered the sandpaper and the block of wood useless when I tried to separate them.
I don't know if it matters to the overall design and size, but 3/4" is equivalent to 19mm, while 21mm is close to 13/16".