Table Saw Taper Jig




Introduction: Table Saw Taper Jig

About: I'm an average guy trying to to above average DIY projects. I'm driven by my desire for nice things around the home with a desire not to pay someone else to do them. This drives me to constantly learn about …

In this video I’ll show you how to make a taper jig for your table saw and save money. You can also use this jig as a straight line jig or joiner sled. But first I’ll discuss whether you should make your own or build one. For me it made sense to make a DIY jig because it saved money and also had more capability. This is an upgrade over the more expensive one I could have purchased. It’s heavier duty and I can also use this jig for much larger work pieces.

I’ll walk through all the steps to cut all the pieces using my DeWalt table saw and miter saw. Then I’ll assemble and test my new taper jig/joinery sled.

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3/4" Plywood for bas and fence

CA Glue

1/2" Plywood for rail guide

Hold down clamps

T-track w/ hold down knobs

1 1/2" dowel for handle

Wood screws

Step 1: Cut Base & Fence to Size

Using 3/4" plywood, cut the base to 48"x11" and the fence to 46"x4".

Step 2: Install T-tracks

Cut a dado the width of the t-track about 5" from each end of the base board. The t-track should sit flush with the base. Cut and then install the t-track into the dado slots with screws. If the screws poke through the other size, grind them below the surface of the plywood so they do not scratch the table saw.

Step 3: Cut & Install Miter Slot Guide

Using some 1/2" plywood, cut the miter slot guide to be fit in the slot with no slop yet still slide smoothly. It should be just proud of the table, around 1/16". It should be 48" long.

Now, put the guide in the slot and apply CA glue. Then apply accelerator to the bottom of the base where the guide will touch it. Then use the table saw fence as a guide and lay the base onto the guide and apply firm pressure for 30 seconds. The base should be touching the saw blade when installed.

Remove the jig from the saw and drill and countersink holes. Now screw the rail to the base. Make sure the heads of the screws are below the surface of the guide so they do not scratch the table saw.

Step 4: Make Fence

Lay the fence on the base and mark where the t-tracks sit under the fence. Then drill holes 1 1/2" on either side of the mark you just made. The holes should slightly bigger than the hardware for the tightening knob. Now, connect the holes with a jigsaw to create a slot.

Now use a scrap piece of wood to create a stop on the end of the fence as shown.

Step 5: Install Hold Down Clamps

Mark the hole locations of all of your hold down clamps. Predrill holes for the screws. Screw the clamps into place.

Step 6: Make/install Handle

Determine where you want your push handle and mark the location. Then cut a 6" piece of 1 1/2" dowel. Predrill a countersunk hole where you want the handle and then screw the handle to the base. Be sure the head of the screw is below the surface of the base so you don't scratch you table saw.

Step 7: Wax Base

Using paste wax, wax the bottom of the jig and guide rail so it slide smoothly on the table.

Step 8: Test

Clamp a scrap piece of wood into your jig and try to make a taper. This jig can also be used to put a straight edge on a piece of wood that is not straight.

Enjoy your cheaper, better table saw taper jig!

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    5 weeks ago on Step 8

    Modifications: put clamps closer together at the start -

    e.g. measuring from the stop block at the start: at 1, 7, 15, 27, 45

    in other words, from the first clamp; successively 6, 8, 10, 12, and 18 inches apart
    to allow for clamping /small/ things to taper

    That type of clamp is good - to allow to adjust the bolt for narrow/wider stock - BUT -

    ** replace the nuts on the clamps - they come loose and are a pain to tighten - it requires 2
    - Instead: use a split ring lock washer under the flat washers, and wing nuts, top and


    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Thanks! I actually was thinking about moving them closer together at the beginning as well. Great idea. I did notice that the nuts came loose pretty easily. These are all great adds. Thanks for contributing!


    Tip 4 weeks ago on Step 2

    It is much better to cut the tip of the screws with a Dremel cutoff wheel BEFORE screwing them into wood. The very tip of the crew only is there to penetrate wood, but provides very little, if any holding power. By using a pilot hole and cylindrical (not tapered) screw threads, the scerw holding power into the wood is much better, and yu can cut the tip because you already drilled a pilot hole.


    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Thanks for the feedback!