Sir Pigglesby is a multi part 3D printable piggy bank with a threaded stopper. The colours chosen and the painting of Sir Pigglesby are simply my recommendations and can of course be changed as wished. He is about 25cm long fully assembled. All of Sir Pigglesby was printed on a Prusa i3.

The files for Sir Pigglesby are free to download and can be found here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238727

As is the tradition with my other fantasy models, Sir Pigglesby has a little (and possibly rather silly) backstory:

"Sir Pigglesby is a brave knight who serves in the army of the Sun. He wears a magic belt given to him by a Moon princess in thanks for joining her on a quest to rescue her parents from an army of Trolls. The belt (which bears the crescent insignia of the Moon Kingdom) enables Sir Pigglesby to carry an infinite number of objects without being hampered by bulk or weight. Only the chosen wearer can release the objects and as he is a noble, honest and loyal pig, he is in great demand to transport valuable items on the most dangerous missions."

There is quite a real life story attached to the creation of Sir Pigglesby. I've not been around much this and last year (from a free downloadable model standpoint), either due to professional commitments(for the first part of the 2016) and the second part(and still ongoing), helping my Louisiana family recover from a devastating flood and the serious illness of a close family member.Due to these personal commitments, I have not taken on any new commissions, but in order to "keep my hand in" artistically speaking (and to keep up spirits), I designed this friendly and brave piggy. I imagine him as a merry little fellow who would make anyone smile even on the worst days and would protect those close to him, no matter the danger.

I give you Sir Pigglesby - I hope you enjoy printing him as much I did designing him.

All the beautiful filament used for this print of sir Pigglesby(except for the pink used for his head) was made by Proto Pasta.

http://www.proto-pasta.com/

Step 1: The Printing of Sir Pigglesby

Sir Pigglesby is a multi part piggy bank model made for 3D printing. Each of the parts will need to be printed and then assembled using a "dries clear" glue which can bond the plastic you are using. I have only tested him him using PLA and hence can only recommend using this material. That isn't to say it won't work with ABS etc.. but it will be down to you to try and let me know:-)

As Sir Pigglesby requires a certain amount of precision for good fitting, I suggest that you carefully measure your filament to ensure the correct diameter is dialled in. I use digital calipers, take a number of measurements and then use the mean average.

To help, I have included a 20mm cube model. Print this out in the desired filament and measure it on the X,Y ad Z axis (preferably with calipers). The closer to 20mm x 20mm x 20mm you get, the more accurate your Sir Pigglesby will be.

Below is a table with settings I used for each part. Please use this as a guide but change to suit your own needs.

All parts were printed with a minimum of 3 perimeters(shells) to ensure durability.

All parts have been orientated for printing.

Please use attached PDF for printing guide.

NOTE: I have replaced medal_band.stl with medal_band_v2.stl due to a reported error.

NOTE: I have replaced leg_front_left.stl and leg_front_right.stl with leg_front_left_v2.stl and leg_front_rigth_v2.stl respectively due to a reported error
NOTE: There are two versions of the coin_slot file. V2 has a larger slot to allow for the 2GBP coin.

Sir_Pigglesby_print_sheet.pdf
Download

Step 2: The Painting of Sir Pigglesby Head and Ears

Whilst it isn't absolutely necessary to paint Sir PIgglesby, I do think it enhances the overall look. As I know not everyone paints models and figurines in their spare time, I have come up with a method which should be simple to do, cheap and (I hope) effective.

CONCEPT

The end of a pig's nose, around his eyes and the inside of his ears are much pinker than the rest of his face, so we shall approximate this with Sir Pigglesby. Even though we won't be doing any complex shading, it can improve the depth of his face by highlighting these areas, particularly if the paint has a glossy, reflective or pearlescent quality.

The example shows the head_without_eyes.stl part, but this will work for head_with_eyes.stl as well

For this you will need

Printed parts

head_without_eyes.stl or head_with_eyes.stl
ear_left.stl
ear_right.stl

Paint

I used Daler Rowney pearlescent liquid acrylic(Sundown Magenta), as it has a nice reflective quality, goes well the filament I used and is easy to work with. However, nail polish can work just as well or a gloss paint used for miniatures. Only use paint that adheres well to plastic and will not react with it.

Paint brush

Make life easier on yourself and get a brush suited to the job. You want to use a brush called a "bright". Hobby shops will sell "student" versions of these brushes for a very reasonable price. A bright is great for short controlled strokes and getting sharp edges even if the brush is loaded.

Sealant

In order to protect our wonderful work, we will need to seal it once finished and completely dry. You need a glossy sealant. These can be purchased at art stored for varying amounts of money, or if you don't want to spend lots (and are in the USA), go to the household department of a grocery store and pick up a bottle of Pledge Floor Care Finish. Far more talented model painters than myself rate this and you get a big bottle which will last you for ages for only a few dollars. If folk know of equivalents in other countries then let me know and I will update the document.

METHOD

Please study the provided pictures to see where and what to paint.

Essentially:

Inside of his ears
Around the edge of his eyes
His nose
Crease of his mouth

With painting the general rule of thumb is less is more. You will get much better effects with a number of thin layers (allowing decent drying time in between), than one big thick layer which is harder to control.

I heartily recommend you print out a few extra ears and practice on those first.

Once complete and dry, carefully brush the painted area with sealant.

Step 3: The Painting of Sir Pigglesby's Eyes

A decent pair of eyes can transform any figurine and they are much easier to paint than you might think. There are many ways to paint eyes, but I think this way is pretty simple and looks good. The effect is more of an imprecise cartoon/painted look rather than realism, which is more appropriate for a model of this type

What you will need:

Printed parts

eye.stl (I recommend you print out quite a few for practice). Gently sand off any sharp edges and seams.

Paint

For the iris: A light and bright nail polish. Very, very fine glitter/pearlescent effect. You want to avoid anything with large pieces of the shiny
For the pupil: Black heavy acrylic - brand doesn't matter
For the highlight: White heavy acrylic - brand doesn't matter

Sealant

Glossy sealant. Either art or grocery store:-)

Brush

The brush type you want to use is called a "round". These are suitable for fine work and although we aren't doing super precise detail, it will certainly make life easier. You can get "pointed rounds" which are excellent for very fine work. I didn't use one for the eyes but it's up to you. A cheaper student brush will suffice.

Method

Start by applying thin coats of nail polish to the iris area of the model - allowing each layer to dry. Again, less is more. Many thin layers will be easier to control and give a better look.
Once the iris is dry, you can apply the pupil. You will want to thin the black acrylic slightly, either with water or a recommended medium. Don't let it get to thin as it will need to hold it's shape. I recommend painting his pupils quite large as it will give his eyes a softer look, but it is up to you.Don't worry about getting the pupils perfectly round. Allow to dry.
Now we will add the highlights. Make sure the end of your brush is clean and pointed and place a tiny amount of the white acrylic (not thinned) on the tip. Make two highlights as shown. One in the top right, just touching the pupil and the other in the bottom right in the iris.Proceed to next step without waiting for the paint to dry.
Now we are going to do a little bit of what is called dry brushing. Take a piece of kitchen paper and "brush" until the barest amount of paint remains. Then gently, use the brush to "blend" the highlight placed in the iris. This will give the eye a somewhat soft and slightly dreamy look.
At this point if you want to do any touch ups, like refining the pupil, increasing the highlight size etc.. Now is the time to do it. Once happy, leave your eyes to dry thoroughly.
Once the eyes are dry, paint them with sealant to protect the paint and add shine.

Step 4: Assembling Sir Pigglesby's Head

You will need:

Printed parts

pig_without_eyes.stl or pig_head_with_eyes.stl
eye.stl x 2 (if needed)
ear_left.stl
ear_right.stl
helmet.stl
sunburst_helmet_medal.stl x 2

Method

Fit the eyes. I strongly suggest you practice positioning and fitting the eyes without glue beforehand.

Carefully place a small amount of glue on the inside of an eye socket. The place the eye inside the head and position as wished. Once happy, hold the eye in place until the glue has set sufficiently.

Repeat with other eye.

Leave to dry.
Assemble the helmet. Glue the two medals in provided spaces either side of the helmet. I owuld ensure that the rotation of the "sunburst" matches.

Leave to dry.
Attach the helmet to Sir Pigglesby's head. There are two holes inside the helmet, these match up to the registers on top of Sir Pigglesby's head. Glue together and hold until set.

Leave to dry.
Attach the ears. Place glue inside each ear socket and then place each ear into it's socket. Recommend doing each ear separately.

Leave to dry.

Step 5: Assembling Stopper and Threads

You will need:

Printed parts:

threaded_body.stl
threads.stl
stopper.stl

Ensure that the threaded body and threads work well together before assembly. If necessary, sand to ensure a smooth movement.

Once happy, glue the threads into the stopper as shown.

Step 6: Assemble Armour

You will need:

Printed parts:

armour_front.stl
armour_back.stl
peg.stl x 4
threaded_body.stl
flower_belt_left.stl
flower_belt_right.stl
crescent_medal.stl x 2
coin_slot.stl
back_flag.stl
sunburst_back_flag_medal.stl

Place the pegs into the holes in armour_back.stl as shown. Once happy glue into place.
Placing glue around the edge of armour_back.stl, fit togther with armour_front.stl using the pegs as registers and hold in place until set. Leave to dry.
Meanwhile glue the crescent medals onto the flower belts as shown. Leave to dry.
Glue the coin slot into place as shown. Leave to dry.
The threaded_body print will need to be put into place. This is done by passing the threaded_body.stl through the neck of the assembled armour model and pushing into place. Practice this first and then glue into place. Leave to dry.
Glue flower belts into place one by one as shown. Leave to dry.
Glue sunburst back flag medal onto back flag. Leave to dry.
Glue flag into place and let dry.

Step 7: Assemble Medal Band

You will need:

Printed parts
medal_band.stl
heart_medal.stl
crown_medal.stl

Assemble as shown and glue medals into place.
Leave to dry.

Step 8: Assemble Front Legs

You will need:

Printed parts:

leg_front_right.stl
leg_front_left.stl
shoulder_left.stl
shoulder_right.stl
epaulette_flower.stl x 2
front_feet.stl

Glue epaulette_flower into space on the shoulders as shown. Leave to dry.
Glue leg_front_left into shoulder_left as shown. Leave to dry
Glue leg_front_right into shoulder_right as shown. Leave to dry
Glue right foot into right leg as shown. Leave to dry.
Glue left foot into left_leg as shown. Leave to dry.

NOTE: Do not let dry completely. Due to the variable nature of 3D prints, we want to allow for some temporary movement. Proceed to next step.

Step 9: Assemble Back Legs

You will need:

Printed parts:
leg_back_left.stl
leg_back_right.stl
foot_back_left.stl
foot_back_right.stl

Glue appropriate foot into appropriate leg. Leave to dry.

NOTE: Do not let dry completely. Due to the variable nature of 3D prints, we want to allow for some temporary movement. Proceed to next step.

Step 10: Final Assembly

You will need:

Printed and assembled parts

assembled front left leg
assemble front right leg
assembled armour
assembled head
assembled medal band
collar.stl

Glue legs into place as shown. Leave to dry "standing". As the legs should still be "tacky", you can shift things around to ensure he balances properly. 3D pritning results are variable at times and I woludn't want your Sir Pigglesby to be unbalanced:-)
Glue collar in place as shown
Glue head into place. Hole in base of head will match up with registers in neck. The head is heavy so you will need to hold it in place until it has dried sufficiently.
Glue medal band in place as shown
Enjoy Sir Pigglesby!