The Chilling-Swing

Introduction: The Chilling-Swing

The Chilling-Swing is usable outside and inside. In good weather you can drop him over a branch and enjoy the good weather, and in miserable weather you can hang him inside to read a book, watch television...

Another advantage. When the swing is dirty, you can easily remove the sitting and clean it in the washing machine. As good as new!

To make the Chilling-Swing, there are three parts: the sitting, the attachment and the storage-belt.

For start there's the sitting. Than the attachment. And thirdly the storage-belt.

In no time you have your personal Chilling-Swing!

Good luck and enjoy!

PS: In supplement you'll find a ppt-presentation with a user guide, from arriving in the park till leaving.

Step 1: THE SITTING - Materials

You'll need:

Firm fabric

Three rings (like curtain rings, but smaller)

Three hooks

Tools: pencil, ruler, scissors, finger crown and thread, hammer, sewing machine


You can use fabric from an old couch.

Step 2: The Fabric

Draw the sitting on the fabric according to the pattern. Do this two times, because the sitting is double. This for more strength and a prettier sight. Cut the two sitting out.


Make sure you have an extra border (2 à 3 cm) to stitch later.

Step 3: Stitching

Stitch (only on one piece) in the three corners an extra patch of the fabric for extra strength. It's sufficient if you only stitch on the boundary.

Now you can stitch the two pieces of fabric on each other. Leave in the longest side an opening (approximately 12 cm) so you can turn the sitting after stitching.


Stitch them with their most beautiful side to each other.


Use pins before you stitch. Then you're sure the fabric won't move.

Step 4: Complete the Sitting

Cut off the boarders and make little snips in the corners. This will simplify to turn the corners. Turn the sitting through the opening you left.

Now you can stitch the opening, do this manually.


You can take your thread double, this for the strength.

Step 5: The Rings

Hit in each corner a ring. Do this according to the instructions on the packing.


Put a block under the fabric while you're hammering, so you don't damage the table.

Stitch with a nylon thread around the rings for more strength.


Step 6: THE ATTACHMENT - Materials

You'll need:

Two boards of sturdy wood. Measurements: approximately 40 cm and 25 cm on 10 cm.

Tools: pencil, ruler, saw, chisel, drill, wood glue, sandpaper, files, a few hand screws and a sturdy rope (min. 10 m)


You can choose a rope of flax, this is sturdy and feels soft to the hands.

Step 7: The Wood Connection

In the middle of the longest board you indicate two lines who have the same distance like the width of the board (10 cm).

Between those two lines you remove the wood till the half of the height. Do this with the help of your saw, chisel and hammer.

Now do the same with the second board, but not in the middle, but in the ending of the board.

Make the two fit in each other and make the connection tight a little. Not too much, so the wood don't splits!

Make the wood connection stronger with the wood glue. Put on the hand screws while the glue is drying.


Let the glue dry long enough: minimum 24 hours.

Step 8: The Holes

In the longest board you make four holes:

Two on the endings of the board (approximately 3 cm of the side)

One in the middle of the board

One next to the hole in the middle, around 2 cm from each other

In the shortest board you make one hole in the ending. With and extra drill you make the hole bigger, but this till the half of the width. This is the place where the knot will tighten.

Saw from the side to the bigger hole a groove. Make it big enough so your rope can pass through it.

Polish all the holes, sides and unevenness off with the sandpaper and files.

Step 9: Extra Ring

Turn in a ring above the bigger hole. This is to attach the sitting-part (see later).


Drill first a little hole, so the wood won't split.

Step 10: The Robe

Cut one part of approximately 1,25 m.

Strengthen all the endings with tape, so they'll not undo.

Step 11: The Robe + Sitting

1. Connect the shortest robe to a ring in the sitting (one of the two lowest) with a hook.

2. Put the other side of this robe through the hole in the 'T' and make a knot. Make sure the bigger hole in the 'T'

point to the floor.

3. Connect the longest robe to the other lower ring in the sitting with a hook.

4. Put the other side of the longest robe to the hole in the 'T'. And make a knot under the 'T'.

5. Put the longest robe through the first hole.

6. Then put the longest robe through the second hole in the middle of the 'T'. (The rest of the robe goes over the


7. Connect the second ring (in the top) in the sitting to the extra ring in the 'T' with a hook.


Step 12: THE STORAGE-BELT - Materials

You'll need:



Tools: pencil, rules, scissors, pins, sewing machine


Use the same fabric as the sitting, for a complete and fitting view.

Step 13: The Fabric

Cut out of the fabric four bands:

Two of 110 cm

Two of 90 cm


Make sure you have an extra border (2 à 3 cm) to stitch later.

Step 14: Stitching

Stitch the two corresponding bands on each other. Leave one width open, so you can turn the band.


Make sure you put the two inner sides to each other.


Use pins before you stitch. Then you're sure the fabric won't move.

Step 15: Complete the Bands

Turn through the still open width the two bands to their outside.

When it's turned, you can stitch the open width manually.


Iron the bands to make them more flat.

Step 16: The Cross

Make with the two bands a symmetrical cross and stitch the crossing. Stitch every side, so you have become a square.


Use pins before you stitch. Then you're sure the fabric won't move.

Step 17: The Velcro

When you close the storage-belt, you put the four endings of the two bands over each other. So, there needs to be velcro on every side where the bands touch each other. Altogether there are six sides who need velcro.

Stitch the velcro with a sewing machine one by one.


Make sure the corresponding velcro fits on each other.


Use pins before you stitch. Then you're sure the velcro won't move while stitching.


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