The Easiest Thin Strip Jig for the Table Saw

Thin Strip Jig for the table saw - Probably the fastest, easiest and cheapest way to make one.

Sounds like click-bait but -trust me- it really isn't.

I needed a whole lot of thin strips to make my own veneer. And so I decided to make a little jig to help me with just that!

This little jig will take you 10-15 minutes max to make, but it wil safe you a ton of time when you want to make repetitive and accurate cuts.

Supplies

1. Small piece of hard wood that will serve as a runner for the table saw.
2. A bigger piece of wood that will be our hard stop and reference point.
3. 1 wing nut
4. 1 threaded insert
5. 1 bolt
   • These last 3 items have to fit together but the size doesn't really matter.
6. 2 screws or nails to attach the runner to the bigger block.

Step 1: Prepare the Runner

1. Measure the width of the slot on your table saw with calipers or tape measure
2. Adjust the fence so you cut a piece that's just a little bit wider
   • Keep adjusting the fence little by little so you have a pérfect fit on your newly made runner
3. Cut the runner to size. (It doesn't need to be too long, you just want a nice and snug reference in the slot of your table saw)

Step 2: Prepare the Reference - the Bigger Block

1. Get a bigger piece of wood that we can use as a reference. Size doesn't really matter you just want it to be able to 'close' the gap between the slot and your saw blade.
2. Mark out the center of the block to drill the holes for the threaded insert and bolt.
   • I marked it around 18mm from the bottom because most of my stock is 18mm or higher
3. First drill the hole for the threaded insert
4. Next step is to drill the hole for the bolt
   • Make sure this is deep enough to accept the length of the bolt.
5. Put the threaded insert in to place with a hammer and you're good to go for the final step

Step 3: Assembly

1. After all the hardware is installed we can attach the runner to the bigger block.
2. Drill and countersink 2 holes in the runner to avoid splitting or expanding the runner.
3. Put the first screw into place
4. Once the first screw is in, we can use our square to position the second screw. This little trick makes for a perpendicular connection and that's exactly what we want.
5. Last step is optional: wax the entire jig to make it run smoothly.

Step 4: How Does It Work?!

1. With the help of feeler gauges or a material that serves as a reference we can lock in the jig for the exact thickness.
2. Put the feeler gauges or the reference material in between the blade and the bolt. Adjust the bolt so it makes for a snug fit.
3. Tighten the wingnut so everything stays exactly where you want it.
4. Place the stock in between the fence and the bolt and lock the fence down.
5. Cut a testpiece to make sure everything is alright.
6. If everything is OK, repeat step 4 until you have enough thin strips.

Comments

[MarcelS9]

Isn't it a gigantic waste to cut such thin strips with the table saw rather than with the band saw?

[jeanniel1]

I've found the table saw gives better and more consistent cuts for thin bands than the bandsaw. I'm even using the 1" wide bandsaw and it still leaves a lot of jitter on the surface which I'd have to sand down with the drum sander, whereas I don't have to do that with the table saw.

Nice colorful wood, btw.

[ToolboxGuy]

A table saw is a rather common tool to have, even for novice woodworkers. A band saw is generally a large, heavy, and unwieldy item, that far fewer people have in their garage or shed. I would have liked to have seen a few safety items in place though, like safety glasses and a push stick.

[david.levantaci]

Exactly why wanted to share this for the bandsaw.

You're right on the PPE tho...

[Where_to_Begin]

why? because of the blade kerf? Waste of material? Waste of time?

[MarcelS9]

Most of that wonderful material is turned into saw dust; what a pity. Nonetheless, great jig!

[david.levantaci]

Thanks!

I'm using a thin kerf blade which is 1.7mm and I mostly use this jig for fast, little repeatable cuts. Especially because I don't have a real good band saw.

[RobA24]

I liked this idea.
The problem the bandsaw is the cut is rougher and it requires a sharp new blade to do a good job, otherwise it wanders.
I think more people have tablesaws than bandsaws. Mine has a thin kerf blade and the fence is much better than on the bandsaw.

[david.levantaci]

Exactly! : )
That would have been my answer as well.

Thanks for sharing your experience as wel.

[JohnC430]

it depends on your reason for cutting thin strips.
I want to make a toy canoe for my grandkids and need thin strips like these so I can bend them to shape the body.

[stonger05]

How do you get colored wood ?

[charlessenf-gm]

Buy it at Klingspor?

[Tustin High T-Tech]

It is the same stuff used for skateboards. You can buy it like this or recycle skateboards. Not cheap though.

I would love to see a video, I'm not quite sure how it works once you have the thickness set.

[david.levantaci]

If you want to know how I made the coloured plywood, I've added a link one message higher ;)

[david.levantaci]

I make it myself and I also made a video on how I make it:

I'm selling the veneers at http://rainbowwood.be

[ziqfriq.]

Nice idea for a quick and dirty zero clearance plate. That alone made the entire video worth watching. You really should be using a push stick! Better still the blade guard--those thin strips could go flying--but probably not practical here.

[bobjames]

I guess two out of three aint bad.

[david.levantaci]

I'm not quite sure what you mean, but any input is always welcome :)

[JohnC430]

I am confused.
Dont you have to move the fence or readjust the gauge after each cut? after all each time you cut, the original piece gets smaller. So repeating #4 by itself does not work.

[david.levantaci]

The Jig remains put. Otherwise you might change the thickness.

After each cut, you put your thinner stock against the Jig and move the fence against the stock. And you repeat this for each cut you make.

Let me know if I need to clarify this a little more ;)