Introduction: The Necronomicon
This instructable was created in fulfillment of the final project requirements of the MakeCourse at the University of South Florida. (www.makecourse.com)
My name is Kenny Simmons and I am a mechanical engineer at the University of South Florida. This is an instructable on my final project the Necronomicon. ( An adaptation of a prop used in 'Ash vs. the evil dead'.)
This project is prop replication of the book of the dead, otherwise known as the Necronomicon, from the popular television show and movies, Ash vs. the evil dead. In this tutorial I will take you through the steps necessary to create you very own Necronomicon. If you enjoy the tutorial please feel free to leave a 'like' and if not feel free to tell me what you think I can improve on in the comments below. All types of Positive Criticism are welcome!!
Step 1: Dimensioning and Cutting Frame Pieces of the Necronomicon
This instructable was created in fulfillment of the project requirements of the MakeCourse at the University of South Florida.(www.makecourse.com)
When constructing the frame of the book there are two ways that you may approach this;
a.) Purchase a pre-constructed box that is the desired size for your prop.
b.) Construct your own from scratch.
I personally recommend that you create this frame from scratch. This will allow you to create any size that you wish and it will also give you a more 'hands on" experience. It will also allow you to chose the material that you wish to create with. Material choice is key when designing a project because it will ultimately help guide what path you take when designing/incorporating the mechanical system which makes the book function!
Make sure that you use a light weight material that is also durable enough to withstand a good amount of force!! I cannot stress how important this selection process is. After research, I chose to use 6mm(millimeter) sintra board. It is light weight, durable, and inexpensive. The following steps will detail how the frame for this project may be constructed.
1.) Dimension the Book and Cut Out the Pieces - Here I will break down the sections part by part to simplify. Again you may design this to your liking. This will serve as an easy template to follow. Trace out the following dimensions on the 6mm sintra and cut out using a utility knife. (User discretion is advised. Take necessary safety precautions at all times!!)
In section 1a. we will consider all frame pieces for the top portion of the book and in 1b. we will consider all frame pieces for the bottom portion of the book. In total, when this step is completed, you should have 10 various sized pieces.
1a.) Top cover- 2" x 9(1/2)" Top Spine- 12" x 1(1/2)" Side Pg.- 11(1/2)" x 1(1/2)" Top/Bot. Pg.- 8(1/2)" x 1(1/2)
1b.) Bot cover-12" x 9(1/2)" Bot Spine- 12" x 3" Side Pg.- 11(1/2)" x 3" Top/Bot. Pg.- 8(1/2)" x 3"
* When you have completed this step take your razor knife and make shallow depth scores along outer face of the "Top/Bot. Pgs." parts for EACH portion of the book( 6 in total). This will help to give these pieces a more textured look when you begin the aesthetic work in later steps. The trick with this is to make your cuts along the horizontal or length of the face. This will in turn offer a paper look and feel to this section of the book. Take your time and use extreme caution during this process!!
2.)Dimension and Cut Out Brace/Support Pieces - In this step we will use the remaining sintra to create braces and support pieces in order to add addition support help to keep the book as square as possible. Again, I will break these parts into sections to simplify. Trace out the following dimensions on the 6mm sintra and cut out using a utility knife.(User discretion is advise. Take necessary safety precautions at all times!!)
In section 2a. we will consider the braces/supports for the top portion of the book and in 2b. we will consider the braces/supports for the bottom portion of the book. In total, when this step is completed, you will have an additional 10 support pieces.
2a.) 4 Support pieces - (1/2)" x (1/2)" Brace - 11" x 1.375" (measure length for precision)
2b.) 4 Support pieces - (1/2)" x (1/2)" Brace - 11" x 2.875"(measure length for precision)
* When you have competed this step you will need to make an addition notch in the center of the Bottom brace. This will serve to allow the manipulation of wires for the 3 servos, 2 leds, and proximity sensor needed in later steps. Dimensions used for this project are as follows
2aa.) 4" x (3/4)" at a measurement of 3(1/2)" from either end of the Bottom Support.
2bb.) 4" x (1/2)" at a measurement of 3(1/2)" from either end for the Top Support
* See Pictures for a Better Idea for These Sections.
Step 2: Constructing the Shell of the Necronomicon
When constructing the shell, it is important to allow time for the adhesive to dry during these steps. For this it is not important what portion that you start with. You may start with either the top portion or bottom portion of your Necronomicon. In this tutorial we will start with the bottom, as depicted in the visual aids. (In order of top to bottom, left to right ) For this step I used an adhesive in order to keep the structure connected and in place. I recommend using nothing more then a hot glue gun(with the recommended glue sticks) to complete this task. I found that it dried very rapidly, created a strong bond , and allowed for error. If error occurs that you may simply scrape away the hot glue and try again. ** steps 1-4 Will be for the bottom construction and 5-8 will be for the top section.
1.) Bottom Cover and Bottom Spine Pieces
1a.) Connect the spine and bottom cover such that the spine is connected to top(inside) face and is flush to either edge. This section will be considered the "Bottom/Spine" connection for the remainder of this step.(see Picture #1) When looking at this connection one should make sure it is on the left hand side for the remainder of this step, in order to have a reference point.
2.) Bottom Supports and Brace
2a.) Measure 3" from the inside wall of the spine and make a straight vertical line on the sintra. This will act as a guideline for placing the support pieces. At this point you will need to locate 2 of the bottom supports and adhere them to left of the guideline ensuring that the right edge of each support is flush with the guideline. Make the location of these supports equidistant from what is now the top and bottom of the bottom portion book. (Take into consideration the location of the notch you cut into the bottom brace as it will impact future steps) Allow for time to dry.
2b.) Locate the bottom brace. Once the 2 supports are dried in in place, make another straight vertical line along the right edge of the supports. Locate the center of this line and make a reference mark. Now, take your bottom brace and locate its center, match this point with the reference point that you just made and place the brace flush to the supports.(Supports should be to the left of the brace) Immediately take the final two bottom support pieces and adhere them to the right of the brace, parallel to the other supports. Allow time to dry.(see Picture #2)
3.) Top and Bottom 'Page' Pieces(Bottom)
3a.) Once the support brace is dried into place it is time to secure the Top and Bottom 'pages' for the bottom portion of the book. To do this locate the located the Top/Bot. 'page'. pieces. These pieces will go at the top and bottom of the cover with the textured side facing outwards. Once the you have the texture facing outside you must make piece flush with both the bottom/spine connection(on the edges) and inner face to the textured pieces flush to the edge of the bracket. Once in place adhere in to position.(See Picture #3)
4.) Side 'Page' Piece(Bottom)
4a.) Locate the side page. This should be the last piece for the bottom section of the Necronomicon.(it should also be textured) Similar to the last step, make sure that the textured side is facing towards the outside. Simply place the inner face flush with the edges of the top and bottom 'page' pieces. Once everything is lined up and straight , glue the piece into place.
5.) Top Cover and Top Spine Piece
5a.) Connect the top spine piece and top cover of the book such that the spine is connected to the top(inside) face and flush to either edge. Once you have the correct orientation glue the pieces into place.( steps 5-8 should mirror those of 1-4. Refer to the pictures if needed)When looking at this put the spine to the left and use as a reference location for the remaining steps.
6.) Top Supports and Braces
6a.) Measure 3" from the inside wall of the spine and make a straight vertical line on the sintra. This, again, will act as reference guideline for placing the support pieces. You will need to locate 2 support pieces for the top and adhere them to the left of the guideline, making sure that the right edge of each support is flush with the guideline. Make the location of these equidistant from what is going to be the top and bottom of the top portion of the book. (Take into consideration the notch that you cut into the top brace as it will impact future steps if it blocked) Allow for time to dry
6b.) Locate the top brace. Once the 2 supports are dried into place, make another straight vertical line along the right edge of the other supports. Locate the center of the line and make a reference mark. Take tour top brace and locate its center, match this point with the reference point that you just made and place the brace flush to the supports.( Supports should be to the left of the brace) Immediately take the final two top support pieces and adhere them to the right of the brace. Make sure that the supports are parallel to the other supports. Allow time for drying.
7.) Top and Bottom 'Page' Pieces(Top)
7a.)Once the support brace has dried secure the Top and Bottom 'pages' for the top portion of the book, Locate the Top/Bot. 'page' pieces. These pieces will go at the top and bottom of the cover with the textured side facing outwards. Once you have the pieces in the correct orientation, make sure that their edges are flush with the top/spine and the inner face is flush to the brace. Once this is in place adhere pieces to cover.
8.) Side 'Page" Piece(Top)
8a.) Locate the side page. This should be the last piece for the top section of the Necronomicon.(It should also be textured) Like the previous step, make sure that the textured side is facing towards the outside. Place the inner face flush with the edges of the top and bottom 'page' pieces. Once in place, adhere into place and allow time to dry.
Step 3: Installing the Hinges and Adding the Fabric Covering
In this step we will install hinges to the spine of the completed top and bottom portions of the book, thus, completing construction on the skeleton of the Necronomicon. Following this we will adhere felt to the top/bottom covers and the spine of the book so that we can later add textures and give the book its terrifying features!
1.) Painting the Base Layer For the Pages of the Necronomicon
1a.) In this step we will simply paint the pages( textured faces) of the book white and allow this to dry. There is no need to be cautious during this stage because the felt will cover any mistakes made. A nice thin coat covering the entire are will be fine for this step.
2.) Installing the Hinges
2a.) This can be preformed while the white paint is drying. Take the two portions that you created in the previous section and place the top of the book on top of the bottom of the book. Make sure that the cover is on the outside and line up the spines so that they are flush. Also, line up the edges of the book. If constructed correctly you should have what looks like a book. At this point, with everything perfectly aligned, we are ready to install the hinges . Simply measure out one third and two thirds the distance of the total length of the spine and make a mark. This mark is where you will screw in the (3/4) " butt hinges. Once this is complete the top should now be connected to the bottom of the book and we are ready to move on to the next step.
3.) Adding the Fabric Layer to the Covers and Spine
3a.) When the white paint is completely dried you will be able to continue on. In this step we will be adding the black fabric to top and bottom covers as well as the spine. Cut out a section of fabric that is 20" x13".(The extra length can be trimmed at the end)
3b.) Start to add hot glue to the inner ridge of the book( the area next to the pages) and work on the material. Try to work the material with the glue this way the glue sticks to as much surface area thus creating a better bond.
* I recommend starting from the bottom front lip and then moving the bottom cover, followed by the spine, then the top cover and finally finishing at the top front lip. after this is complete then you can work in the other lips. Remember this does not have to be perfect, it just needs to cover everything but the pages of the book. Later the skin texture and paint will cover any issues here. If there are any questions you may follow the pictures for guidance.
3c.) Trim off any excess fabric that you might have left on the book with the utility knife.
Step 4: Making the Monster and Bringing It to Life
During this step we will give the Necronomicon its face. and physical features using the hot glue gun and various paints. I have found that during this step its very helpful to have a picture near by in order to have a comparison or two when creating your design. IF you are artistic then you may have an idea or adaptation which you would like to use and if not you may simply search for pictures of the Necronomicon and use those as a reference. Below are detailed steps take to design the Necronomicon see in this tutorial.
1.) Outline the Important Features and Add Texture
1a.) From this step forward the hot glue gun will serve as a drawing utensil. In this initial step you will outline the main features of the book using the glue gun. (I.e. Eyes, nose, mouth) . The mouth will need to be wide enough to encompass the proximity sensor that will help to open the book. (this will be installed in later steps)
1b.) Once these main features are 'drawn' on then proceed to add lines from these points to the edge of the cover. Try to work the lines in a " wavy line'" pattern. (Don't be shy with the glue!!)
1c.) After you have finished your first layer and cover the entire front of the book then you will want to build up the main features a bit higher than the rest of the cover. To do this simply go over your initial patter several times. Each time that you add a new layer the height of the feature increases. This will create a nice 3D look and help to make to really accentuate the main features.
1d.) Once you have the desired height for your features then I recommend repeating step number 1b. at least two more times. When you do this it is not necessary to follow the first set of lines that you made exactly. Remember the goal is to make this look as close to stretched human flesh as possible! Be artistic and have fun with this step.
1e.) once you have finished with the front and have let it dry move to the spine off the book. Use the same technique to fill in the space.
1f.) Once the spine is completed and dried you can finally move on to the back of the book. I recommend keeping it basic at this point. If you feel like you would like to add something here(aesthetically interesting) just keep in mind that you may have to raise other areas of the back up in order to keep the book level. Again, let your imagination run wild during this step. Once finished you are ready to move on to painting.
2.) Painting the Covers and the Spine
2a.) With this step you will notice very basic directions on how to paint this book. IF you are more artistically inclined to do so, you may paint how ever you wish. This is a basic run down to how I approached this task. You will need three basic colors; Chocolate brown, black and red. The first thing that you will need to do is apply a base coat over the recently designed cover. Here, you will want to cover most of the book in the brown acrylic. A dabbing motion will work great here. When doing this it is important to note that you do not have to cover all of the black felt with paint. Allow a little bit of the black to show through the brown.
2b.) Next take some of your red paint and again, in a dabbing motion, start to add over the red. it is not completely necessary to allow the brown to be dry at this point.
2c.) Lastly, take the black paint and use this color to highlight the raised features such as the eyes, mouth , and nose. You may also wish to apply some black here and there on the rest. This will help to contrast and "pull out" the other colors. If there are any doubts as to how this step is performed then refer to display picture.
2d.) Repeat steps 2a-2c for the spine and back over of the book. (NOTE: you may wish to start with the rear cover of the book to get a little practice in.)
3.) Painting the 'Pages'.
3a.) Here you will need a cup for mixing paint. Take a little of the brown paint and add it to the cup. Next add some water. You are going to be looking for a thin brown kind of texture. If done correctly your cup should look like brown water. Take a paper towel and dab it in the paint water mixture and then brush it across the 'pages' of the book. This should create a weathered look for the exterior pages.
4.) Adding the Teeth
4a.)While the paint is drying you may start working on adding the teeth.
In this step you will need white Polymer clay from Michaels. Here you will need to set your oven to the required temperature. Once you have done this then you can begin to create the teeth. When you are satisfied with the design, simply place the clay molds onto a nonstick cooking sheet and place in the oven for the specified time. Once done, remove from the oven and allow time to cool.
4b.) Once the molds have cooled and hardened simply adhere them to the mouth around the proximity sensor.
4c.) After this you will need to paint the teeth. Use the browns reds and blacks from the previous steps to do this.
Once this step is complete then you are ready to move on to the electrical system.
Step 5: Electrical Schematic and a Look Inside
Here, in the photo displays, there will be a schematic attached for easy connection. There are also parts along with model numbers for convenience. The wiring photos are a little messy but there will be a revision that will display a cleaned up look. If there are any questions please feel free to leave them in the comments section!
1.) Parts and Model Numbers
Arduino
Arduino Upload Cable
Proximity Sensor - (HC-SR04)
Servos (3x) - (HiTech HS-311)
LED (2x)
Voltage Regulator - (2596-SDC)
9volt Battery
11volt Battery - ( Lithium Ion Polymer 3 Celled Battery)
Positive/Negative Gator Clip Connection Wires
220 Ohm Resistors (2x)
Wire connection kit. This can be found at model or hobby stores. The wires come in various lengths and colors.
** When wiring the system it is important to note that the Servo inputs and Proximity Sensor MUST be connected to PWM (pulse width modulation) input pins. All other locations are arbitrary.
Step 6: Installing the 3D Printed Parts/Lever System
In this step we will get the lever system hooked up to the servo, servo mounted to the bracket, and servo mounted to the book. After this we will get the "L" supports into place.
During this step you will need the following parts and tool (Parts can be procured from ACE Hardware);
Dremel tool
Safety glasses
Drill
Drill bit kit
3D printed L Lever (3x)
3D printed Lever 2 (3x)
3D Printed Servo Mount Bracket (3x)
3D Printed Block Pin Connection (3x)
Servo/L Lever Pin Connection Parts (6x)
L Lever/Lever 2 Connection Pins (3x)
Lever 2/Block Connector Pin Connections (3x)
Servo/ Bracket Mount Connection pieces (6x)
Servo Mount Hardware
3-in-1 oil
1.) Assembling the Lever System and Connecting it to the Servo
1a.) Here we will need to take the 3D printed parts and we will need to make small holes in them. The specs for the holes are detailed on the pictures via the parts. But will also be listed below the next few steps
1b.)L Lever and one end of Lever 2 will need to have a 3/16 hole near the top of the L Lever and at one end of the Lever 2. The goal here is to have a hole just big enough to get the nylon sleeve into and allow it to rotate.
1c.)The Second end of the Lever 2 will need to have the same sized hole centered as well. You will also need to have a 3/16 hole straight through the center of the block
2a.) Step one involves putting on your safety glasses and using the dremel tool.( user safety is advised) What you will need to do here is take the Hardware that came with the servo and locate the red, four arm piece. Next, you will need to dremel off three of the arms so that there is one remaining. Take the red piece and connect it to the L lever such that the right side is parallel to the bottom of the L Lever and attach it using the connection parts that are described in Picture 1 of this section. This piece will then be placed onto the servo itself in the downward(270 degree) position.
2b.) Next, use the parts outlined in picture 1 notes to connect the servo to the mount bracket.
2c.) Use the parts detailed in the picture 2 notes to connect the L Lever to Lever 2.
Here you will need to use the nylon sleeve to allow for free rotation of the pin.
2d.) Use the parts detailed in the picture 3 notes to connect the lever 2 to the block pin.
Here you will need to use the nylon sleeve to allow for free rotation of the pin.
* All that you will need to do here is put the connections in place.
3.) Installing the Completed Lever System to the Book
3a.)Now we will measure the for the placement of the 3 lever systems and install them to the bottom half of the book. This is a simple measurement of 1/2 the distance of the inside of the book . The inside should measure at 5 (1/2)". Add adhesive to the back of the servo mount bracket and adhere it to the bottom half of the book. ( It is important to leave just enough space to add the picture that will cover the electrical system.) For the two remaining lever systems, simply place these at the far ends making sure that you have enough space for the lever arm to rotate.
3b.) You will now need to attach the lock end to the lid of the book. It is important to outline where this will be placed as a guide. (use a pencil to do so) Once you have measured out the needed distance then you will add adhesive to the block and adhere it to the inside lid of the book. Once this is done and the adhesive is completely dried then you will be ready to install the program to the arduino for a test run.
4.) Adding the L support
4a.) Here we will need to add the L support to the interior of the book. Here you will want to add the L support just 1/8" under the rim of the top and bottom sections of the book. There should be just enough room to allow the interior pages to sit flush with the top allowing the book to completely close. you may been to measure depending upon your dimensions. Once you have measured this distance then you will need to adhere to the book. These parts will allow you to screw in the pages during the final steps.
*Note; you will need to drill a small hole in the middle of one side in order to be able to screw in with ease.
Step 7: Uploading the Arduino Code
The arduino code is as followed. Simply copy and paste this into your arduino software and upload.
#include
Servo rogue11;
Servo red6;
Servo sinister9;
int necrodistance=55;
// Declare what pi
const int trigPin = 13;
const int echoPin = 12;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
rogue11.attach(11);
red6.attach(6);
sinister9.attach(9);
pinMode(2,OUTPUT);
pinMode(4,OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
long duration, inches, cm;
Serial.println('waiting for trip\n:);
//The ping ))) is triggered by a HIGH pule of 2 or more microseconds.
// Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:
pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(trigPin,LOW);
delayMicroseconds(2);
digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(5);
digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
// The same pin is used to read the signal from the PING))) : a HIGH
//pulse whose duration is the time( in microseconds) from the sending
// of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object.
pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);
duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
// convert the time into a distance
inches = microsecondsToInches(duration);
cm = microsecondsToCentimeters(duration);
delay(100)
//Beginning of proximity trip
if (cm
{
Serial.println("Opening...");
//Begin Opening Book
int counter=0;
int flag=0;
for (int I=180;i>86;i--)
{
//Serial.println(i);
rogue11.write(i);
red6.write(i);
sinister9.write(i);
delay(25);
counter = counter+ 1;
if (counter%3==0)
{
if (flag==0)
{
digitalWrite(4,HIGH);
digitalWrite(2,LOW);
}
if (flag==1)
{
digitalWrite(4,LOW);
digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
}
flag = !flag;
}
}//End Opening Book
//Turn both lights off at the end of blinking sequence
digitalWrite(4,LOW);
digitalWrite(2,LOW);
Serial.println("Wait 25 seconds...");
// enter how many seconds to wait before closing book
int waitime = 25;
int deltaloop;
deltaloop = (waitime*1000)/25;
flag=0;
//while the book 'waits' and remains open for the viewer to enjoy, the lights will blink on and off
for (int I=0;i<=deltaloop:i++)
{
if (flag==0)
{
digitalWrite(4,HIGH);
digitalWrite(2,LOW);
}
if (flag==1)
{
digitalWrite(4,LOW);
digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
}
flag = !flag;(50);
}
Serial.println("Closing");
//Begin Closing The Book
counter=0;
flag=0'
for (int I=86;i<=180;i++)
{
//Serial.println(I);
rogue11.write(i);
red6.write(i);
sinister9.write(i);
delay(25);
counter = counter + 1;if (counter%3==0)
{
if (flag==0)
{
digitalWrite(4,HIGH);
digitalWrite(2,LOW);
}
if (flag==1)
{
digitalWrite(4,LOW);
digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
}
flag = !flag;
}
}// End Book Closing
// turn both lights off at the end of the blinking sequence
digitalWrite(4,LOW);
digitalWrite(2,LOW);
}// End of proximity trip
}//End of main loop
long microsecondsToInches(long microseconds) {
//according to Parallax's datasheet for the PING))), there are
//73.746 microseconds per inch(i.e. sound travels at 1130 feet per second).
// This gives the distance traveled by the ping, outbound and return, so we divide
// by 2 to get the distance of the obstacle.
// See : http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/acc/28015-PING-v1.3.pdf
return microseconds / 74 / 2;
}
long microsecondsToCentimeters(long microseconds) {
// The speed of sound is 340 m/s or 29 microseconds per centimeter.
//The ping travels out and back, so to find the distance of the
// object we take half of the distance travelled.
return microseconds / 29 / 2;
}
Step 8: Adding the Inner Pages
In this step you will need 2 signs that you can procure from ACE Hardware or Lowes. These are nothing more than plastic at you will use to detail the back. You will need to paint these to mimic pages from the necronomicon. The best way to do this will be to pull up images from google and mimic what was done there. Once you have created the 2 pages necessary for the inside covers and allowed them to dry, you will want to add the high gloss sealer to the pages to keep them from future ware.
1.) Designing the Inner Pages
1a.) As previously stated, pull up the pictures on google and use these as a template. I recommend using a picture with a 'deadite' in it so that you can add the blinking LED in as the eyes. Stain the inner pages in the same manor as you did the exterior pages. Once this is done begin to trace the pictures that you wish on the inner page. Once this is done then you may begin to paint the area. Repeat this step for the second page. Once both of these are dry then you may apply the high gloss sealer. Let this try and then you are ready to cut in order to fit into the book.
2.) Cutting the Pages to Fit
2a.) Once the paint had dried you are ready to dimension and cut for the inner pictures. Here you will need to measure and account for movement of the lever system as well as the inner dimensions of the book. Once you have done this begin to trim the pages. You can use scissors to do this. It is easier to trim small amounts and measure multiple times. This will allow for minimal error when getting the sized correct. Note picture number 3; this will be the final product.
3.) Drill holes in the Eyes in Order to Insert the LEDS
Here you will need to put on your safety glasses and use the drill in order to make holes for the eyes on your deadite. Once this is done then you can adhere the red LEDs in place. Simply place the LEDs through the holes and adhere in place.
4.) Securing the Pages into Place
Once the previous steps are complete, you are ready to perform the last step. Simply screw the pages into place.
Where you have placed the L supports is where you will need to screw the pages in. Once this is done then your book will be complete. Now you simply be able to wave your hand in front of the proximity sensor are watch your book open and close!
Step 9: Finished
If there are any questions as to the steps or processes take to complete this then feel free to leave them in the comment section below. I hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial and hope that you had fun creating the Necronomicon.
See the video of the completed product! enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNS4lAYiQ3A
