Introduction: "The Steampunk Garden" in a Bulb
Parts you need:
- A salad bowl (as the stand)
- A solar garden light with LED
- A big bulb
- Some copper tubes, fittings and parts
- A switch
- Some pieces of wood
- Some brass applikations
- Brass screws, bold´s and nuts.
Step 1: The Bulb and the Stand
Remove the inner parts of the bulb.
Drill and cut some holes for the bulb, the switch, the holder and the solar panel
Step 2: The Solar Panel and the Electronics
Disassemble the solar garden ligth, so you will have the LED, the solar panel and the electronics with the accumulator.
Place the electronics and the accumulator inside your stand and connect the LED and the solar panel.
The switch ca be placed in the lines of the solar panel.
If you switch it off, the LED will light up.
From a small round piece of wood and some brass applications I created a holder for the solar panel.
The LED was placed in the middle of the holder like picture No. 3.
Step 3: Mounting Everything Together
Assemble everything as shown in the pictures below.
I filled some sand and some plants inside the bulb.
The bulb is sealed completely.
Now the plants are still growing without any additional water or air.
If its becoming dark the LED will lit and it looks like moonshine inside the bulb.
You can use every kind of bulb, even the smaller one.
Have fun
40 Comments
6 years ago
Are these plants real or fake? How they grow without any additional nutrition?
Reply 6 years ago
Hi, no fake. Real plants an without any extra water and nurions.
10 years ago on Introduction
Another really cool one,good job.
10 years ago on Introduction
When I first looked at the pic, I thought this was a bong o_O
11 years ago on Introduction
Thank you for the instructable! I used potourrie, this way the plants don't transpire and the bulb doesn't get fogged.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Love this mod! Do you have a bigger picture to share so I can see a little more closely what you did with the potpourri?
11 years ago on Introduction
The guy who made you reference here as having the original idea also has an instructable on how to make it
11 years ago on Introduction
Great Job! I want to make one of these but I have a question. Is the LED basically for looks at night or does it actually help the plants grow?
I read that a minium of a 3 Watt LED needs to be used in order to be a grow light.
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Good morning,
its only a night light it will not help the plants grow.
Regards,
H. Steam
11 years ago on Step 3
some plants?
could you elaborate a little bit?
What plants are growing in this cool setup?
Thanks!
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Nearly every slow growing plant. I used moss for this first approach.
Regards,
H. Steam
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
In case it may be useful: this is a list of plants I've collected as 'Suitable for Terrarium Growing'. Sorry if there's any duplicates. I am happy to hear feedback:
• Acorus gramineus ‘Pusilus’
• Adiantum raddianum
• Aluminum Plant (Pilea Cadierei)
• Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’
• Asparagus Fern (Asparagus Plumosus)
• Asplenium nidus
• Baby’s Tears (Helxine Soleirolii)
• Begonia ‘Tiger Paws’
• Callisia
• Chamaedorea elegans
• Cissus discolor
• Codiaeum
• Cryptanthus Acaulis C. bivittatus C. Bromelioides C. zonatius
• Dracaena reflex acv
• Dracaena sanderiana
• Emerald Ripple (Peperomia Caperata)
• Espiscia
• Ficus pumila ‘Variegata’
• Ficus pumilia
• Fittonia verschaffeltii
• Gold Dust Plant (Dracaena Godseffianna)
• Hedera (miniatures)
• Hypoestes phyllostachya
• Hypoestes phylostachya ‘Splash’
• Maranta leuconeura
• Nertera granadensis
• Nerve Plant (Fittonia)
• Parlor Palm (seedling) (Chamaedorea Elegans)
• Pellaea rotundifolia
• Pellionia daveaunana
• Peperomia caperata
• Pilea cadierei P. spruceana
• Plectranthus oertendahllii
• Ribbon Plant (Dracaena Sanderiana)
• Saintpaulia (miniatures)
• Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Hahnii’
• Scheffleria elegantissima (seedlings)
• Selaginella
• Selaginella kraussiana ‘Aurea’
• Selaginella martensii
• Soleirolia soleirolii
• Strawberry Geranium (Saxifraga Sarmentosa)
• Strobilanthes dyerianus
• Syngonium hoffmanii
• Tradescantia cerinthoides. T. fluminensis. T. spathacea.
• Variegated Peperomia (PeperomiaObtusifolia Variegat)
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Thank you :-)
11 years ago on Step 3
What about CO2, sooner or later the plant will run out of it. how long do you expect your plant to last.
Reply 11 years ago on Step 3
No, this is not true because the plants are cycling CO2 and Oxygen and there are some micro-organism in the earth. They are producing enough CO2- There are closed systems outside still existing since 30 years.
Please see also the q&A in step 1
Reply 11 years ago on Step 3
Ok cool it was late last night i was more distracted by the elegant simplicity and the thought came in my head. ill check it out. thanks
Reply 11 years ago on Step 3
:-)
11 years ago on Introduction
There are several methods to 'open' a light bulb without cracking it, most depend on accessing the blown base of the bulb.
When the bulb is blown (by person or machine) a small spot at the base is left for later sealing. This can be broken off (and the vacuum released) without the bulb breaking. This is due to both the thicker glass here and the smaller hole that slows down the airflow.
Cut, carve or drill into the base of the bulb, between the cylindrical 'screw' area and the center contact. When you break the base you will hear air hissing in, unless your Dremel, drill or whatever is too loud.
For this project, continue until everything below the screw-threaded section is gone, pulling out the filaments and support arms. Move carefully here to prevent scratching the inside of the glass; if you do have a single scratch, that can become the bottom of the display.
You can then replace the cut-off bottom with modeling clay or similar, or screw the bulb into a socket. The end must be sealed to keep the water in the environment.
If your bulb has a phosphor coating, place some sand or other mild abrasive inside the bulb and swirl it around. Dispose of this carefully, some of the phosphors are chemically dangerous in large doses. Ordinary trash is OK for disposal, just as it is for incandescent light bulbs.
If you want to experiment with other types of bulbs, be aware that ALL fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, even the 'green end' and CFL types. Check your local regulations for proper disposal of mercury.
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
I have had pretty good results by placing a lamp in yhe refrigirator for a few hours and then just twist off the brass base. That leaves you with the still closed glass part. I then break of rhe small glass rod that sticks out and press the base against a beltsander till the middle part loosens
In the method you describe there is a fair chance that the cut will be below the glass and you will have to move up higher on the brass foot to cut into the glass. But eventually that will work though. However there will be a fair chance yr dremel will make longitudinal cracks, that could crack yr entire bulb.
Not sure iff All bulbs contain mercury. I opened a number of standard filament bulbs and there was really nothing inside that could contain any mercury or it must have been the metal wires going to the filament
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Incandescent bulbs do not contain mercury. Florescent bulbs contain mercury.