Introduction: The Making of ��� (pork Belly)

���(pork belly) This is the nineteenth knife I made. It is sitting on a piece ofchannel iron (3 1/4" X 1 1/2" and 1/8"thick) of which the knife is made

Step 1:

Step One: I drew out a design on Bristol board and cut it out using a utility knife.Then held it to see if it feels good and made any adjustments.

Ilaid my pattern on the material and traced around it with a marker. I am using a piece ofchannel iron (3 1/4" X 1 1/2" and 1/8"thick) that I got as scrap at work.

Step 2:

Step Two: I cut out the pattern with a "Dremel" type rotary tool, using the fiber type cutting discs (The fiber discs last a lot longer than the cheap ones). I use a rotary tool rather than an angle or bench grinder, as you can get allot closer to your pattern, and it do not tend to over-heat the material.

Step 3:

Step Three: I have finished cleaning up my pattern. I using a 1X32 belt sander and disk sander, plus a drum sanding kit on my drill press.

Step 4:

Step Four: I have drilled holes in the handle section to pin my handle material; shallow holes in the handle section to help my glue stick; and milled decorative holes in the blade section. Then sanded the material down with Aluminum Oxide sandpaper, starting with 80 grit and working down to 400 grit (I only sanded the handle section with the 80 grit to remove the rust, leaving a rough surface to help my glue to stick). bevel the edges of the blade using a 1X32 belt sander.Finally polished the blade section with black, green and lastly blue polishing compound using buffing wheels on my drill press.

I would now temper and heat treat the metal if I had access to a kiln, and then have to re- polish the blade.

Step 5:

Step Five: Materials for my handle; 3/4" X 1/8" brass salvaged from windows from the local hospital being re-modeled (for the front and rear bolsters); a reddish tint wood from a pallet from work ( the scales); and 1/8" brazing rod (for the rivets/pins).

Step 6:

Step Six: I cut two sections of the brass rod for each of the bolsters, and two sections of the woodfor the scales.I need two identical pieces for each part, and have the pin holes line-up. I used an old carpenters trick, using two way tape and taping the sections together before drilling and cutting. The handle shape was traced on the wood and then rough cut on my scroll saw. {Make sure you file down and sand the end of the bass in the ricasso area (where the handle meets the blade). Once it's glued you won't be able to shape it any further.}

Step 7:

Step Seven: I taped the blade of the knife right up to where the scales are going to be glued. I always make sure the blade is covered tight to where the handle is going to start, as it saves a lot of time of cleaning up glue that can get on the blade.

Using 5 minute epoxy coat one side of the knife tang, then put your rivets in place, and slide the corresponding side of the handle in place, and clamp for 5 to 10 minutes.Then glue and clamp the second side. I did this for all three sections of the handle.

Step 8:

Step Eight: I have every part of the handle glued in place.

Step 9:

Step Nine:I  now have all the sections glued to the tang. I used my wood rasp,1X32 belt sander and disk sander, drum sanding kit on my drill press, and palm sander to shape the handle. I sanded everything down to 400 grit.You have to be careful not to overheat the brass in this step as it can burn the wood and glue.

 You may note the rear bolster is missing.I did not like the results so I removed it.

Step 10:

Step Ten: Another knife finished (almost) I taped the wooden parts of the handle and polished the brass, and in turn taped the brass part of the handle and put four coats of varnish on the wood. Now all I have to do is sharpen the knife and make a sheath for it.