The Making of ��� (pork Belly)
Intro: The Making of ��� (pork Belly)
STEP 1:
Step One: I drew out a design on Bristol board and cut it out using a utility knife.Then held it to see if it feels good and made any adjustments.
Ilaid my pattern on the material and traced around it with a marker. I am using a piece ofchannel iron (3 1/4" X 1 1/2" and 1/8"thick) that I got as scrap at work.
STEP 2:
Step Two: I cut out the pattern with a "Dremel" type rotary tool, using the fiber type cutting discs (The fiber discs last a lot longer than the cheap ones). I use a rotary tool rather than an angle or bench grinder, as you can get allot closer to your pattern, and it do not tend to over-heat the material.
STEP 3:
Step Three: I have finished cleaning up my pattern. I using a 1X32 belt sander and disk sander, plus a drum sanding kit on my drill press.
STEP 4:
Step Four: I have drilled holes in the handle section to pin my handle material; shallow holes in the handle section to help my glue stick; and milled decorative holes in the blade section. Then sanded the material down with Aluminum Oxide sandpaper, starting with 80 grit and working down to 400 grit (I only sanded the handle section with the 80 grit to remove the rust, leaving a rough surface to help my glue to stick). bevel the edges of the blade using a 1X32 belt sander.Finally polished the blade section with black, green and lastly blue polishing compound using buffing wheels on my drill press.
I would now temper and heat treat the metal if I had access to a kiln, and then have to re- polish the blade.
STEP 5:
Step Five: Materials for my handle; 3/4" X 1/8" brass salvaged from windows from the local hospital being re-modeled (for the front and rear bolsters); a reddish tint wood from a pallet from work ( the scales); and 1/8" brazing rod (for the rivets/pins).
STEP 6:
STEP 7:
Step Seven: I taped the blade of the knife right up to where the scales are going to be glued. I always make sure the blade is covered tight to where the handle is going to start, as it saves a lot of time of cleaning up glue that can get on the blade.
Using 5 minute epoxy coat one side of the knife tang, then put your rivets in place, and slide the corresponding side of the handle in place, and clamp for 5 to 10 minutes.Then glue and clamp the second side. I did this for all three sections of the handle.
STEP 8:
Step Eight: I have every part of the handle glued in place.
STEP 9:
You may note the rear bolster is missing.I did not like the results so I removed it.
STEP 10:
Step Ten: Another knife finished (almost) I taped the wooden parts of the handle and polished the brass, and in turn taped the brass part of the handle and put four coats of varnish on the wood. Now all I have to do is sharpen the knife and make a sheath for it.
14 Comments
Codswallop 11 years ago
Basement_Craftsman 10 years ago
WazIt 10 years ago
ZaneEricB 11 years ago
ZaneEricB 11 years ago
anyone else?
nice work tex!
EmcySquare 11 years ago
Great job, like it a lot. Too bad you could not Heat Treat it !!
WazIt 11 years ago
EmcySquare 11 years ago
MrCafe 11 years ago
EmcySquare 11 years ago
It can't esplode, nor can catch fire is you don't put flamable materials there.
The main risk comes from electricution, but it's easy to avoid if you do it right. You can add a circuit breaker (is that it's name?) that will cut power when he detects a short circuit or such.
Or you could do it with a forge... many ways to do that.
Another solution, even better, could be to send it over to some het threat company and have it done for you.
BTW: very nice job of yours !!
blkhawk 11 years ago
EmcySquare 11 years ago
crankyjew 11 years ago
Kiteman 11 years ago