Introduction: Toolbox Into Chainsaw Case

About: I tinker and build things at random or if a need arises. Prefer metal working and dabble in woods only if its used for building something structural. I know a fair amount of home repair stuff (installing new…

Being the proud new owner of a chainsaw (my first!) I looked into getting a case to go with for storing extra chains, sharpening kit, bar oil, mix oil, manual, tools, etc. The local hardware stores all had purpose built cases from different saw manufacturers (Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon) that ranged from 40 to 70 dollars. The cases were completely molded plastic, including the hinges for the lid, which wear out very easily. I wanted something heavier and could not find one so I built my own FOR 25 DOLLARS.

Before getting to the steps here is the breakdown of items that are currently in this box:

ECHO CS590 Timber wolf 60cc chainsaw with 20 inch bar

4 quarts of 50:1 fuel premix in separate 1 quart bottles (tall black cylinder cans)

Stihl roll up chainsaw hand sharpening kit

2 quarts of bar/chain oil (short square plastic bottle)

2.5oz 2 cycle oil (for mixing fuel on site if the premixed fuel runs out)

Owners and maintenance manuals in sealed plastic bag

Step 1: The Box

For this case I used a Stanley FAT MAX 28 inch toolbox purchased from Lowes, they are well built, have metal pin hinges and are very durable (I have 3 and beat them up pretty good) outer dimensions are 28inches wide by 12inches tall by 11inches deep. Any box of the above dimensions would probably work.

This box came with a tool tray that would not fit with the saw so I set it aside to use in my truck bed tool box.

Step 2: Make a Bar/blade Hole

First step is to make a slot in the side of the box/case for the blade/bar to go through. In this situation the slot was made in the left end of the case using the blade sheath as a guide. To make the hole a dremel and utility knife were the tools used.

Some trial and error was needed in cutting out the case side and each saw may differ. When complete the slot measured 6inches tall by 1 inch wide, and was approximately .25inch from the bottom of the case floor and .5inch in from the case back wall. If you have a smaller blade sheath then the slot may not need to be as big.

Step 3: Make a Handle Hole

Once you have the blade/bar slot complete insert the saw as if you are stowing it. Leave about 2-3 inches of space between the saw and case end wall. This will serve as a guide to cut the case lid support structure out so the handle will clear and the lid will close completely.

Again some trial and error is needed here as each saw will differ. In some instances you may not need to cut at all. In this case I needed to cut support grid parts and make a hole in the lid so the safety handle would clear to allow the lid to close.

The hole here was 1.5inches wide by 5inches long front to back on the lid. I then covered the hole with gorilla brand duct tape to keep water at bay .

Step 4: Load It Up

Insert the saw and other paraphernalia. You should be able to fit all the necessary items for a full day of use only stopping to refuel or sharpen the blade.

The pictures here indicate how my case is loaded. There is also room for extra fuel on top of the sharpening kit.

I estimate the overall weight loaded to be about 25-30 pounds.