Twin Engine Pickup Truck Snow Blower

Ok I was on a tight budget and really wanted a front end snow blower affixed to my 20 year old 4x4 pick up truck. On the cheap using throw aways I managed to recuperate 3 old 10hp craftsman snow king 30 inch snowblowers and knew that with my mechanical skills, 2 motors were repairable. This was a between school bus runs project and took me 3 months give or take. (Did not work or heat garage on very cold days). The end result turned out quite useful and allowed me to clean my large entrance the way I wanted it. Yes I know, my wife is away a lot and I am a tinkerer.

So start by stripping down everything that isn’t related to the front augers of the snowblowers; Wheels, gears, sprockets if any, cables handle bars and remove the engines.
Note: Tune up engines before removing is easier than on a bench.
You should be left with augers, pulleys, idler/tensioner in body.

Cut ends off of two adjacent snowblower bodies and set them at each extremity 73 inches end to end.

Cut the 3rd snowblower body with 1 inch overlap to weld all three bodies together at 73 inch wide position. Use straight board and clamps to ensure trueness.

Use one (best end and weld inside at centre point of body auger section. This means 2 augers independently powered.

Cut away motor mount of middle body and use sides to plug hole at centre. Curve, clamp and weld.

Reinforce both motor mounts with 4” angle iron and cut downwards angle to make upside down U cage for solidity. Weld in place.

Remove auger and lengthen shafts and augers using pieces of the 3rd, middle body. Precision is nice but not necessary as any screw form, even bent will do the trick. A good idea to add braces to auger’s longer ends to center.

Make tower at center with 4 x 4 x 3 tubing and drill 9/16 hole and open 4 inch cut out at top to receive hydraulic lift.

Cut chute direction shafts short and affix to electric window motors, note position and weld braces nearby to maintain with gear clamps.

Remove bumper of vehicle and measure dimensions for yoke and power pack setup. Measure twice and cut once..

Use 2 1/4 tubular on each frame attached with 4” angle of custom length. 9/16 hardened bolts to frame recommended.

Make custom goose neck at a third fixed to frame point through hole in grill area if you have one. If not then guess what? Make it happen. It must be the same height as the receiving end, middle pillar of Snow blower. Note : Make sure front suspension is adjusted right for the extra 400 lbs at 45 inch length it will be. I cranked mine 3 inches higher and that did the job.

Guide your hydraulic cables and wires allowing for stretch and movement.

Place controls in cab the best ergonomics you can.

Test operation.

Add cut off mechanism and switch for augers if you like. Cables are not durable. Mechanical rods, lever and compression springs work best.

You have to be prepared to improvise a lot to achieve the results you desire. The condition of your motors, gearboxes, belts and tensioner are very important.

Good luck!

Supplies

3 snowblowers 30 inch wide
2 10 hp or more 4 stroke engines
Arc welder and rods
Metal grinder (Strong one 6 inch or more)
Cutting wheels for grinder
4 inch x 1/4 inch x 8 feet angle iron (for frame)
72 inch ATV snow plow blade
4 ft of 2 1/4 x 3/16 tubing for harness
1 x 6 foot piece of metal stop sign post
2 car electric window motors (for chutes)
2 x 2 way switches 12v
1 x 14 inch hydraulic cylinder
Electric 12v power pack for hydraulics (one way) with solenoid.
Electrical grade plastic box 3 x 6 inch minimum (for switches inside cab)
Trailer wire (lots of it with 4 conns
2 x 4 feet of battery cables with eyelets for power pack.
Power pack Contrôler (in cab)
Quick connect 2 pole red plastic Amazon $10
Primer/Paint and patience! This is not assembly line logic!
Personalize at will ...

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