Introduction: Two Easy Worktables Made With Metal and Plywood

About: We're Laura and Louis. Laura is an educator and Louis is an engineer. With our powers combined, we make things and try to show everyone how we tackle projects in hopes to inspire others to get up and create!

Recently we moved into a small warehouse space that we can call our own shop! With any new workspace, the most challenging part is organizing the layout (imho). We knew we wanted the space to be modular, meaning everything needs to be on wheels.

As a disclaimer, Semi Exact did send us a pair of legs as part of their maker program. We purchased another identical set so we can make fraternal twin tables.

The dimension of the legs we ordered are 32" Tall and 40" Wide

Supplies

Here is the list of supplies we used: (These are affiliate links where we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, Thank you!)


Semi Exact H Beam Legs - https://semiexact.com/

Firm Grip Gloves – Duraknit: homedepot.sjv.io/e4aEAX

Firm Grip Gloves – Women’s: homedepot.sjv.io/gbJ6W2

Powerpro #8 x 1-1/4” Screws: https://amzn.to/3q14ng9

Wire Cup Brush: https://amzn.to/3dUj2Er

Lincoln MIG 140 Welder: https://amzn.to/33C03Nb

Low profile Locking Casters: https://amzn.to/3282V3h

Evolution Miter Saw: https://amzn.to/325lo0m

Kreg Accu-Cut Track System: https://amzn.to/3oYfAip

Step 1: Metal Top

For the welding table, we started with a 4ft square sheet of ¼” thick steel and removed the surface rust using a wire wheel on our angle grinder. We’re going to build this table upside down for a couple of reasons:

1) because our floors are far from level and

2) this way, we can make sure the legs are aligned relative to the steel top. 

Step 2: Dry Fit Legs and Stretchers

Once we cleaned off all the surface rust, we placed the semi exact legs on top and placed pre-cut 2x2 square tubes in between to tie the two legs together. These stretchers aren’t necessary, but we wanted to make sure this table is able to handle a decent amount of weight and use, so we took the extra step. The top stretchers interfered with the welds on the legs, so we cut out a small bevel to clear the beads on each side



Step 3: Welding

We marked the position for the bottom stretcher and clamped it in place. Then we welded everything together, making sure to switch our welding position from one side to the other to minimize any distortion from the heat.

Step 4: Cleaning Up the Welds

We flipped the frame over to clean up the spatter and dressed up the weld beads, because to be honest our welding skills aren't of presentable quality and we wanted to make it look relatively pretty.

Step 5: Welding on the Top

Then we flipped the frame back upside down and positioned it on the center of the tabletop by measuring around all the sides evenly. We stitch welded it into place similarly moving from one side to another to reduce warping. 

Step 6: Add Casters and Flip Over

The legs have threaded inserts on the bottoms, so all we had to do was screw on these locking casters and we can fine tune the height if we need to.

Then we carefully flipped it over - We estimated the table weighs about 180lbs, so having two people is definitely important.

Since we used raw steel for the table, we sanded everything down and rubbed a thin coat of WD-40 to prevent any rust from forming.

Step 7: Cut Plywood

With the welding table complete, we moved onto our assembly table. This one is going to have a simple plywood top. We used our Kreg Accu-cut attachment to cut down a sheet of ¾” plywood in half, so we can fold it over hamburger style. 

Step 8: Spread Glue

We made sure to spread a generous amount of glue on both halves. We tried using a paint roller to spread out the glue, but it soaked up so much that we felt that a plastic spreader performs infinitely better at this job.

Step 9: Clamp Top

Once the glue was evenly spread, we sandwiched the halves together, clamped it all around and let it cure overnight.

Step 10: Cut to Size

Once the glue was cured, we cut a thin sliver around the perimeter to make sure we have crisp, even edges all around then sanded the edges with 120grit sandpaper.

Step 11: Screw on Legs

Then we lifted the legs on to the top and screwed them in using 1- ¼” screws with a small washer to make sure they’re captive on the slots.

Step 12: Add Casters

We used shorter casters on this table to accommodate for the extra thick tabletop because we forgot to account for the height difference when ordering the legs.

Then we brought the table upright onto the floor and that's it!

Since we got the prefabricated legs, it made both of these projects so simple.

Step 13: Subscribe and Comment

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