Introduction: UCS Lego Millennium Falcon Coffee Table

About: Maker of unique gifts and gadgets. Visit me at cchobbyfun.com

I needed a place to display my Lego UCS Millennium Falcon (75192) so I designed this table. The goal was to have a 40”x 30” interior surface for the Falcon to rest on with clear acrylic sides/top for the display. I also wanted the assembly to be pretty easy. Additionally, the table is customized with text CNC engraved on the legs and side. You will need the following for the table:

5x 6’x2’x2’ pine boards
1/4” Acrylic sheet cut to:

2x 40.5” x 14”

2x 30.5” x 14”

1x 36.5” x 26.4”

36x 2” pocket hole screws

Pocket hole jig to drill the holes

Pocket hole & corner clamps for the assembly

Mitre saw

Wood Glue, Wood stain and sandpaper to finish

Step 1: Cutting the Boards

The frame is made from 6’x2”x2” pine boards. The 2” is nominal which means they are actually 1.5”. The boards are cut down into:

4x 40”

4x 30”

4x 16.5”

Each of the 40” and 30” pieces has a 1/4” slot routed in the center across the entire length using a router table. The 16” pieces have a 1/4” slot cut in the sender on two sides. Make sure you allying the sides that have slots so they will creat complete a shape to hold the acrylic.

The top of the table is made from 3/4” pine board. I took a 6’x12”x3/4” board and cut 2” wide boards. These are cut as:

2x 43”

2x 33”

Like the frame these boards have a 1/4” slot cut in them the entire length using a router table. The ends are then cut at a 45 degree angle using a mitre saw.

Step 2: Engraving the Table

This step is optional and requires a CNC machine, Adobe Illustrator or some other software to creat custom vectors. The table is customized with the name Millennium Falcon on the sides and the names of my family on the four legs of the table. Each is engraved in Aurebesh or Galactic Standard. I downloaded the Basic Star Wars font from here:Star Wars Font. I typed each of the names in Adobe Illustrator and saved this as a outline vector. This was imported into Vectric Aspire. I then used the vector of the names as a v-carve profile. Using a v-carve bit set to cut at .125” depth the CNC machine was used to engrave the text.

Before doing the final cuts I tested the engraving on a scrap piece of pine.

Step 3: Assembling the Frame

The frame is held together using pocket hole joints. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig to cut two holes on each side of the frame. The jig makes short work of drilling the holes. When you assemble the frame it is essential to use clamps. The Kreg 90 degree clamp and pocket hole clamps really simplify the work. Make sure the screws are always point into the thick part of the wood. Also, adding glue to the joint before clamping will help with the assembly.

I used 1.5” screws for the pocket holes.

The acrylic sheets need to be cut to:

2x

Save the top four boards of the frame for last. Slide the acrylic sheets into the four slots. Screw in the top four boards using the pocket screws to complete the frame. I left the protective covering on the acrylic because I was going to stain the wood later.

The top cover of the table is assembled like a phot frame. The bottom three pieces are stapled and glued together first. Then insert the acrylic sheet and staple/glue the final piece. This frame will need to be clamped.

Step 4: Staining and Finish

Now that the table is assembled it needs to be stained. Make sure you sand any excess glue and get a good surface. I recommend sanding from 60 grit up to 220. I used a Minwax Gunstock stain. I used two coats and then a spray on Polyurethane finish. Pay close attention to the v-carved text if you did that step. It takes a good bit of stain to make sure the engraving is covered.

The lid of the table can sit freely on the frame or you can add hinges.

I’m showing the final table and the table with lights and the Cloud City landing pad I added later. I’ll add another Instructable to cover adding the landing and lights.

You can follow this ongoing construction on my blog here: Falcon Construction