Introduction: UK Ring Video Doorbell Pro Working With Mechanical Chime


Please note that this method only works with AC power right now

I will update if/when I find a solution for doorbells using DC power

In the meantime, if you have a DC power supply, you will need to replace it with the Plug-in Adapter V1, with provides the correct AC power. You'll then be able to follow this page to get your mechanical chime working.


I'm based in the UK and like many other people out there, I have searched and searched for a way to get a Ring Video Doorbell to chime a good old fashioned mechanical 'ding-dong'.

While this is a very straight-forward task in the US with their powerful rugged doorbells, over here in Blighty, our doorbells tend to work on a lower (and so much more respectable) voltage.

The Ring Video Doorbell Pro requires a constant power supply of 24V and this is supplied from a transformer which is included in the box. US doorbells can easily cope with this sort of power and can therefore be powered from the same transformer, as described in the official Ring wiring diagrams.

Unfortunately for those of us in the UK, you'd be hard pressed to find a chime that would work on this rating. Most require an 8V power supply coming from an appropriately rated transformer. And this is the crux of the issue. Ring, fully aware of this issue, simply suggest you remove or 'bypass' your mechanical chime completely, removing it from your doorbell arrangement. Instead, they supply a plug-in digital chime, and again this is supplied in the box (

Of course (subjectively), the digital chimes sound naff when compared to a good old-fashioned mechanical one.

Nevertheless, some people have gone for it anyway, connected their mechanical chimes to the 24V transformer, and found their chimes get hot and emit a constant buzzing/humming noise and at the same time, found they have increased by a few decibels. More of a "DING-DONG!!!".

This is neither ideal nor sensible and could create a fire hazard.

Conversely, some people have used the 16V option on the supplied transformer as this reduces (but doesn't eliminate), the buzzing/humming to more bearable levels. The issue with this is that it can cause your doorbell to cut out during power heavy tasks such as at night with night-vision on, using Live View, 2-way voice comms, etc.

Luckily there is a way of getting your Ring Video Doorbell Pro to chime a mechanical 'ding-dong' while both are being supplied with the power they want and need.

Rather than break this Instructable down into a step-by-step (because I didn't know I was going to do this so didn't really document my installation), I'll describe what I made, with pictures and diagrams so that you can use it as a reference rather than instruction manual. This might have been a better option anyway as each installation is different, with power in different locations and chime/doorbells at different proximities to each other.


This does require some work with mains voltages. Please follow Ring's safety precautions and seek professional advice if you are not sure.

Step 1: The Secret Weapon

I mentioned that there's a way of having both the Ring Doorbell Pro and the mechanical chime being supplied with the power they respectively need AND having the doorbell make your mechanical chime go "ding-dong".

This arrangement uses a 24V AC relay doing essentially the same job that an old-fashioned push-button doorbell does - completing the circuit for the mechanical chime thus making it "ding" (when the circuit opens again, this is when the chime goes "dong").

The relay sits in-between the 24V circuit for the Ring Video Doorbell Pro, and the 8V circuit for the mechanical chime, and this means you don't over-power the chime, or under-power the Ring Video Doorbell.

This image shows my bench testing that proved the concept.

Step 2: Wiring Diagram

These wiring diagrams show two different options and which one you use depends on whether your chime has a built in transformer (like the Byron 776), or is powered by an external transformer (like the Honeywell D126).

In either of these cases the wiring is essentially the same but you will need to check the specific requirements in your own chime.

As an example, mine is the D126 and in the image (taken from the packaging of the chime) you can see that I need to use terminals '0' and '3'.

For the relay, you need to make sure that the coil is being powered by the 24V AC. The switching is done when the doorbell pulls enough current to energise the coil, thus pulling the switch closed. You therefore need to make sure that your chime is wired to the Normally-Open terminals (NO), and not the normally closed (you'd probably hear a 'dong-ding' if you wired it this way not a 'ding-dong').

One thing worth noting is that when you power this system for the first time, as the doorbell boots up and starts doing its internal checks, connecting to the network, etc, you might hear your chime make a ding or a dong or two. This is completely normal and to be expected. It won't do random ding-dongs in normal operation.

Step 3: The Enclosure

You probably noticed from the diagrams in the previous step that I have shown the main components all lumped together in one box.

I went for this layout because it suited my specific needs - I wanted to keep the installation as neat as possible, having everything hidden away unless absolutely necessary. Luckily, my garage adjoins the main house and is just on the other side of the wall to where I mounted the chime. This meant I could put all the bits and pieces in the garage, out of sight.

I just needed to run one cable to the chime and one cable to the doorbell, back to the central location in the garage.

The actual enclosure is shown in these images. I'd say this is a pretty big box and I'm sure there are other neater options out there. I'll put a link to all the bits I used in a section below.

Step 4: The 'Bypass'

All Ring Video Doorbell Pro's, supplied in the UK, come with a 'Bypass' kit.

In its unaltered form this provides a level of protection for the doorbell itself. I've seen some people not using this in their installation as some people have found that their doorbells are less likely to cut-out if you leave this out. I think this is a mistake. Ring make a point of stressing that this is a necessary component in the installation.

HOWEVER, we don't want to use this in 'Bypass' mode because we're not bypassing anything. We're creating an installation that mimics that of the U.S. set-up. So we need to use this 'Bypass', not as a bypass, but in its other mode of operation - the 'Power Pro Kit'.

In the UK, these arrive in the box with a sticker showing you how to insert the cables into the 'bypass' connector.

For this installation, you'll need to peel back this sticker which will reveal another port on the opposite side.

You'll notice, however, that there is a connector in there and you haven't been supplied with the cable to fit it.

At this stage, you have two options:


You can now buy the PPK V2 separately. It's £1 but shipping is about £4.

At the time of writing this instructable, it wasn't possible to buy these.


1) you can call Ring and ask them to send you the cable for the PPK V2 (as you won't be using the 'Bypass' mode). Or,

2) you can butcher the unit and solder your own cables to the two pins inside (not recommended).

My recommendation is to phone Ring and ask them to send you the 'wire' for the PPK as you won't be bypassing your mechanical chime. They should send you a pack (the one shown in these photos), that includes both the wire you need and, in fact, another PPK - they do this because they don't actually supply the cable as a separate item. I guess it's not worth their while. There's no difference to the PPK you already have (but now you have a spare!).

One important note is that you'll need to tell your Ring Doorbell that it is connected to a mechanical chime. This is found in the device settings in the Ring app. When you do this, it basically tells the doorbell to pull a big lump of current (about 1 Amp), and then release the current and this is what energises the coil in the chime making the hammer move and strike the metal bars (the ding, and then the dong).

Step 5: Concusions

Hopefully there's enough information here to help you create your own installation.

Upon seeing my new doorbell, my neighbour asked me to do the same with theirs. Both of these were installed just after Christmas 2019 and have been working flawlessly since - no issues whatsoever.

If there were to be some sort of issue, with the enclosure, everything is easily accessible so would be straightforward to swap. That said, I haven't had to do any maintenance just yet.

One thing worth noting is that my whole system is powered from a spur to a nearby plug socket. The pictures don't show it but I have now added a 3A fuse (a switched fuse), to provide that extra protection. 3A should be more than enough.

All in all, I'm really happy with the installation and delighted to hear the mechanical "ding-dong" whenever the doorbell is pressed......

.........which is hardly ever.

Step 6: Components I Used

Enclosure -

Relay (if you choose a different relay you need to make sure it is a 24V AC coil) -

Transformer -

There is an AC plug-in power adapter here. This will allow you to replicate this set-up (DIN rail power supply no longer included -

PPK V2 -