Introduction: USB Dongle Elimination
I choose the wireless mouse with the dongle, unfortunately I underestimated just how inconvenient unplugging the dongle would be every time I wanted to put my laptop away. This routine gets real old going from class to class, so I decided to eliminate the dongle.
This Instructable can be adapted to a wide variety of USB devices including; flash drives, network adapters, security dongles and of course RF adapters for wireless mice.
This Instructable is being entered into the EPILOG challenge so if you like it please vote for it, If not I would appreciate the vote anyway. If you are going to vote, I feel like I owe an explanation of what I would do with a Laser Cutter.
- First of all it would just be awesome to have, right now my method of cutting acrylic involves a jigsaw and goggles. Think of all of the wonderful things that could be made.
- I would share. Not sure how, But anyone who wanted to use it would have access.
- Telling off the boss and starting my own business would definitely not be out of the question.
Step 1: Consider the Risk
Before you disassemble anything, you need to understand that electronics can be very fragile and you are following these instructions at your own risk. If you have never taken apart a laptop before you may want to ask someone with more experience to help you. I can only explain it as a static sensitive puzzle with complex layers that are built up on top of other equally complex layers. When working with expensive electronics make sure you and the the device you are working on are grounded, at the very least always be sure to touch a grounded part of the case before touching anything else. If you decide to proceed just remember that the laptop must be reassembled the exact way it was taken apart.
Step 2: Laptop Dissassembley
- Start by finding a clean workspace that's large enough to spread parts out on, a static free mat with a wristband is recommend.
- Next remove everything that is generally user removable. In my case this includes; the battery, the hard drive cover and hard drive, the access panel covering the memory, and the DVD drive. The memory itself can stay in, it shouldn't be in the way.
- Next try to figure out how to get to the USB ports, my laptop has them under the keyboard area, so I started by removing the screws holding in the power button and speaker panel above the keyboard. The screws holding in the keyboard can be removed also, be careful they are both connected to the motherboard with ribbon cables. The connectors for the cables have small locking squares that have to be released before the ribbon cable will slide out.
- Good job you deserve a break.
- If you can see the USB ports you can decide if there's enough room to fit a dongle, but you will most likely have to remove another panel. If you have a Presario C700 it means you have to take off the LCD screen. Be gentile with the LCD if you have to remove it, its made of thin glass and is not cheap to replace. Don't forget to unplug both the "VGA" cable and the wireless antenna cables in addition to anything else the manufacturer decided to put in your screen.
- The final panel I had to remove covered the entire top of the laptop, again there may be ribbon cables connected to it.
- If you haven't already done so, try to find some empty space to put the dongle PCB. Keep in mind if there is a button on the dongle you may want to plan on putting it in an area where a small drilled hole would be unnoticeable. In my Presario C700 there was a nice empty spot right under the USB board on the right hand side of the laptop.
Step 3: Prepare the Dongle
- In your new workspace open up the dongle. If its screwed together simply unscrew it, but most will probably be glued together in which case you will want to split it open with a small screw driver or razor blade.
- Once opened you will need to solder a piece of wire to each of the four USB pins: use different colors of wire and keep track of what pins they go to.
- Next take a large diameter piece of heat shrink tubing and cut it to fit over the dongle, alternately you can use electrical tape. After shrinking the tubing you should trim off any excess.
- If there is a button on the dongle you can trim around it so it sticks through.
Step 4: Make the Connection
- First make sure the PCB fits in your empty space of choice, if it does route your wires through the area that makes the most sense and mark the final length of the wires with a marker.
- Next you should take the dongle away from your original workspace to cut and strip the wires. When you return put the dongle in its place and solder the wires to the corresponding pins on the back of the USB connector. Its a little tricky but it can be done.
- When your satisfied double check the pin connections with a meter, pin 1-1, 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4.
If you have a button on the dongle that needs to be pressed, make sure there is a way to do so. In my case I've never used the button. If its absolutely necessary, you can drill a small hole through the exterior of your laptop. Again if its necessary, you will have to orient the dongle PCB with the button facing the hole and secure it so it doesn't slide around. Of course this is all up to you and at your own risk.
Step 5: Reassembley
- You can now start reassembling your laptop in the exact same order in which you took it apart. Any ribbon cables that you released have to be locked down again, while holding the cable in its connector push the locking square back into place.
- When you come to a point where everything should work, you may want to test it and make sure everything works the way it should. Just be careful. If you decide to test it and it does work you can finish the reassembly.
- If you find that the mouse doesn't work you should probably check your pin connections again.
- If the whole computer doesn't work, immediately take out the battery and try to figure out what went wrong: the best scenario would be the ribbon cable for the power button not being connected, anything else would be bad.
Step 6: Enjoy
Everything in this instructable could very well be adapted to a desktop computer or other similar USB device. Extra storage in your Xbox maybe?
This instructable is being entered into the EPILOG challenge so if you like it please vote for it, If not I would appreciate the vote anyway. If you are going to vote, I feel like I owe an explanation of what I would do with a Laser Cutter.
- First of all it would just be awesome to have, right now my method of cutting acrylic involves a jigsaw and goggles. Think of all of the wonderful things that could be made.
- I would share. Not sure how, But anyone who wanted to use it would have access.
- Telling off the boss and starting my own business would definitely not be out of the question.

Participated in the
4th Epilog Challenge
35 Comments
7 years ago
Please, for the love of mankind would someone please explain to me why this instructable does not work with a Bluetooth dongle and raspberry pi zero. I have done everything over twenty times trying to get it to work. I've tried using equal length(to 1/10th mm) wires, powering the dongle separately, four different kinds of dongles, 2.0, 3.0 and 4.0. Wiring it directly to the pins I'm able to get the dongle to "behave" properly with the blue flashing light, but the pi board never sees/recognizes it. Yet when I plug it in the usual way via USB port it works fine. I know this is an old thread but perhaps someone will stumble on this eventually and impart their wisdom for me. Thank you thank you.
Reply 4 years ago
I know it's an old question, but you asked someone to reply if they stumble along, so here goes. You need to ground the SENSE pin of MicroUSB socket on OTG processors such as the one on Raspberry Pi, else the processor's USB controller is configured as peripheral endpoint port, not as a host controller.
Also make sure to not confuse the fundamentally somewhat misnamed D+ and D- pins.
Additionally USB HID devices, wireless dongles or directly wired, are LowSpeed devices with relaxed signal integrity requirements. Bluetooth dongle should be a FullSpeed device with somewhat more stringent requirements. It is recommended to not use loose wire but compliant cable and untangle only the last cm or so, as little as you need. If using loose wires, it's a good idea to twist them together. Length matching is a good idea, but within a mm is plenty. But usually this is all reliability wankery and for the most part, even remarkably crude connections usually work or would work at least some of the time.
5 years ago
I hope this dongle works good r now
6 years ago
Found this and it looks like the port version would be awesome for this application!!
http://muxtronics.nl/nanohub.html
7 years ago
How about putting a switch in VCC line of the connection and any how manage to put that switch outside of the laptop. In this way, when the dongle in not needed you can just turn the switch off and then the usb port will be available for other device.
8 years ago on Introduction
I have a broken USB port. would it work on it since the blue part of the 3.0 is too far in and cracked?
9 years ago on Introduction
I'm thinking for those who don't want to take their laptop apart, they can:
1. Take the USB part off their dongle
2. Solder wires (length is up to them) from USB part of dongle to dongle board
3. Wrap dongle board around to bottom (or side) of laptop and tape/velcro securely
Now dongle is out of way, relatively hidden and can be removed if needed. If they don't like it, it can be put back together or proceed with Jason-B's instructable and put it inside.
9 years ago on Introduction
so man, even if you freed the usb port, it is still useless cause there is no buffer same as a usb hub to introduce 2 or more usb devices to the computer.
you will data intereference and one of them won't work.
10 years ago on Introduction
great ible. just wanted to mention many computers will have internal usb's.
10 years ago on Introduction
damn good idea, i am afraid to open my laptop.
11 years ago on Step 6
to remember to stop using the port cut the plugin end of a usb off and put it in the pot s nothing sticks out so it is basically unremovable maybe?
Reply 11 years ago on Step 6
Ive forgotten about the port a few times, plugging something into it wont cause any damage. It responds with a usb malfunction error message.
Reply 10 years ago on Step 6
You can get those plastic caps for uSB ports
11 years ago on Step 4
What happens if you plug another device in the same port to which the receiver is connected? Can two devices work on the same port at the same time?
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Of course the second device doesn't work.
Operating system assign a IRQ (Interrupt Request) for every USB port to make the difference about which software driver has to be used for that IRQ.
Then if you have two devices plugged on the same USB port, the IRQ assigned to the first device plugged will be the working one.
Let' say that this Instructable is useful only if you want use the available USB port as power source.
It's useless if you want make that USB port work.
Greetings
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Unfortunately not. I've done it a few times with my flash drive, it makes niether of the devices work untill its unplugged.
11 years ago on Step 2
Wait... why aren't jews allowed to remove the screen?
I think "be gentile" demands an instructable of its own...
11 years ago on Introduction
Two things:
1. How is it inconvenient to unplug the dongle? It only takes a second.
2. Just get a wireless mouse with a tiny Nano Receiver. When my laptop was my only computer I had one and I never had to worry about unplugging the receiver.
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Answer: Because we here on instructables like to hack things just for the sake of it!
11 years ago on Introduction
great idea. but i would risk it. id rather buy a mouse with a micro dongle like this one http://www.logitech.com/assets/19678/19678.png quite simply cos i dont wanna risk my precious laptop ahaa