Introduction: Unique Wind Turbine. Very Adaptable Design, Vawt
foils self adjust to maximize power.
It rotates vertically instead of horizontally. (also known as a VAWT) . There are many different designs on the INTERNET where the foils adjust, but this is my own unique design. What makes this design nice is that it is easily scaled up or down in size, and there is no welding required.
Most of the parts can come off with a screw driver so you could really play with the sizes.
Most of the tools used are standard tools.
There are two videos that I have made in association to this instructable, one shows the mechanics of how it works, the other is a short video of the working prototype.
Working prototype: http://youtu.be/9-jXDERwk3U
Mechanics of how it self-adjust: http://youtu.be/X4YFPb60euE
( In this video I used gears instead of pulleys, but the mechanics are the same, and the blades/foils adjust the same)
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Tools:
Metal Grinder ( with cutting blade)
Drill press
Drill bits
Rivet gun
optional Tap die set, ( Screw and bolts will work also)
Materials:
3 timing pulley. I used two 60 tooth pulley and 1 x 30 tooth pulley
2 timing belts ( Pulleys and belts purchased through "spd-si", Sprocket and chain would work as well)
multiple bearings . ( purchased online at "VXB")
Aluminum sheet metal ( any big box store)
Aluminum 1/2" inch tube, and 1 1/4" round tube ( Big box store)
1/4inch and 3/8 inch metal rods ( big box store)
JB weld ( epoxy)
Polymer spacers (easy to drill and cheap, purchased at big box store)
Flat aluminum bar 1/8" thick, 1 1/2 " wide
2 x 1/4 inch polymer thrust bearing
1 x 1/2 inch thrust bearing
Step 2: Main Support
main support Material:
1 1/2" flat aluminum aprox 12 inch long.
4 bearings, 3/8" inner diameter , 4 mm thick, and 7/8" outer diamter
2 pieces of scrap metal to keep the top and bottom piece separated and aligned ( to keep 1 1/2 " sheet metal seperated). my spacers are 1 inch thick
2 polymer spacers , 1/2' inch inner diameter
Getting started:
I chose a distance of 5 inches from the center hole.
Mark the center and outside holes. ( I like to use a punch or utility knife for my markings on metal)
Drill 1/2 inch center hole
Drill outside holes ( 5 inches from center) , ( outside holes should be size of your outer bearings ( mine were 5/8")
Glue your outer bearing in flat stock metal. ( I used JB weld glue , i should have purchase *flanged bearings instead)
Glue the 1/2 inch spacers to the center hole ( these help keep everything steady)
Glue 1 inch metal spacers between center and outer holes
Step 3:
Center tube:
Center tube is 12 inches long, 1/2 inch outer diameter.
Place 3 bearings on this tube.
1/2 inch Inner diameter bearing at the bottom. ( This one I glued in place)
1/2 inch inner diameter bearing, at the top, Used a white polymer spacer to keep the 2 nd bearing in place on the 1/2 inch tube
At the top of the tube I placed the 1/2 inch inner diameter THRUST bearing. Ensure this bearing has an outer diameter larger then your largest tube. ( in my case the thrust bearing has an outer diameter slightly greater then 1 1/4 inch.) The entire weight of the rotating mass will be supported by the thrust bearing.
Top part:
I used 2 bolts to keep the top parts together
note: My thrust bearing was not sealed, so I wrapped the top support of the thrust bearing with a thin sheet of metal to create a dust shield.
Step 4: Stand
My stand is 36 inches high
Main support tube is aluminum, and 1 1/4" outer diameter, inner diameter 1 1/8"
The base I made with a piece of wood with a bore hole 1 1/4".
Then I screwed 3 pieces of metal to create the base
Important:
The wind Vane needs to turn freely.
I placed a skateboard bearing (1/4" inner diameter) inside the 1 1/4" tube, The wind vane is supported by this bearing with the use of the 1/4" rod.
I placed the bearing on a round piece of wood and screwed the piece of wood in place ( see picture)
The base can really be made of anything solid
I used adjustable bolt screws ( or tensioner) so that the center pole can stay level on any type of ground.
Step 5: Assembly
Assembly of center tube and rod
Vane rod:
inner 1/4" vane rod . ( 1/4 inch round, steel, 28 inches long)
Place polymer spacer on bottom of 1/4" rod, I drilled the spacer and placed a set screw in it.
The spacer will rest on the inner skateboard bearing
Your 1/4 inch rod is complete once you've placed the bottom spacer on it, You can place it inside the 1 1/4" tube and it should be resting on the skateboard bearing that is set in the 1 1/4 tube.
Half inch tube:
On the top part of the 1/2 " tube glue a small 1/4 inch bearing ( Mine is 1/4"x 3/8"x1/8")Take your inner hollow center tube ( Mine 1/2 inch OD, 12 inch long)
Install other bearings:
2 half inch bearing should be installed on shaft, or use a shaft support to keep the bearings in place
Place thrust bearing on top of 1/2 tube.
Your 1/2 inch tube should now have 4 bearings: 2 x 1/2 "bearings, 1 x 1/2" thrust bearing , and a glued 1/4"bearing at the top.
You can now place your 1/2 " tube in the 1 1/4" tube
Step 6: More Assembly
Assembly:
Outer timing Pulley assembly:
Pulley has a 3/8" hole and two set screws
Pulley is set to a 3/8" rod aprox 8 inch long
3/8" rod ( mine is aluminum) needs two holes to screw or bolt foils to. (make sure the two holes are lined up
Foil:
Is made with 1/2" tubing , 10 inch long
and 1/16" aluminum sheet metal.( 4"x10")
Take a grinder or hack saw and cut the 1/2 inch tube in half, for the top 5 inches, now slide the sheet of aluminum in the cut and glue it in place.
Drill a small hole an inch from the bottom of the 1/2 tube ( to enter a screw into the timing pulley assembly)
Pulley assembly with 3/8" rod will fit on metal support
Place thrust washer under Pulley assembly
Connect 10 inch timing belt
Place top metal support
On one side place another timing pulley
Slide small timing pulley on 1/4 inch van rod
Connect 5 inch timing pulley
Aligning foils:
Foils should be perpendicular to each other, Use set screw to adjust
Aligning Wind vane:
Wind vane should slide on to 1/4 inch rod,
Use the set screw or bolt to set the VANE parallel to 1 side ( In the picture the Vane is set Parallel to the foil on the right) in this case the wind turbine will alway turn clockwise
Step 7: Detail View of Wind Vane
Wind Vane Assembly
Main tube:
1/2 inch tube, 15 inches long
Drill small hole in tube to place set screw or bolt
Horizontal rod:
1/4" rod, 20 inches long
2 holes for rivets
Vane:
1/16" aluminium sheet metal, 8 inches square piece that was later cut into a triangle
2 holes for rivets
Assembly:
Drill two holes in your 1/4 tube and in vane."
Rivets VANE and 1/4 tube
On top of the 1/2" tube drill 1/4" hole and insert 1/4 inch rod
I used metal putty to glue 1/4" rod and 1/2" tube in place.
Your wind vane assembly is now ready to slide onto the 1/4 inch center rod.
If you have any questions send me a msg on my youtube account.
Thanks
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32 Comments
8 years ago on Step 2
i newbie in VAWT.
thank you very much how to install generator? I have one of small axial flux wind generator (homemade).
anybody can help me,email me at suhartou@gmail.com
9 years ago on Introduction
Hi, I am a total newbie
Love your designs but what kind of motor have you used and how did you attach it ?
Tks
9 years ago on Introduction
Hi I'm a total newbie,
Love your design but what kind of motor is used and where is it attached ?
Tks
10 years ago on Introduction
This design dates back to the 19th century. You usually see it with four vanes. This version, though, is the first lightweight and portable one I've ever seen. Typically, these VAWTS can deliver high torque at low speeds so you might be able to either pump water with it or get some electricity out of it if you rig up a drive train thingamajig and drive an old alternator you should be able to pick up at a junk yard.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Being that is it lightweight and portable aren't you concerned that it might just blow over?
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
lol, Two weeks at my parents cottage and it blew over and damaged one of the foils. I thought it would never blow over. I posted a new video with it turning in strong gusts of wind. Notice the two sand bags at the base. Thanks for the comment....I should have replied earlier.
10 years ago on Introduction
I suspect trial and error would be more reliable than calculations! No me though!
10 years ago on Introduction
I am curious what kind of wattage outputs you were getting?
10 years ago on Introduction
I want to see this in very large scale. If using this idea to capture energy from waves in the beach, may be the same principle can be great.
10 years ago on Introduction
Interesting idea, that's a lot of mechanism to be exposed to the elements. Do you have a video of it in a say a 8-10mph wind which is a decent outdoor test.
Excellent build quality, I highly recommend that you take a look at the work of Edwin Lenz and try his Lenz turbine, its an unconventional design for a VAWT but produces serious torque and is self regulating and self start from any wind direction. You have the skills with aluminium that would produce an excellent Lens turbine.
Just one thing I noticed is you mention the a chain drive would also work, from my own experience chains do not like running on a horizontal plain they much prefer the vertical plain, on the horizontal plain your sprocket need to be perfectly concentric to the axle as any play at all will have the chain coming off constantly, i had this problem on my first turbine attempt and rules out horizontal chains from all future designs.
Good luck and keep it up.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
V belt drive instead
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
The flat belts from washing machines are useful, and easy to scavenge. a flat toothed belt would be best to eliminate slippage in wet weather
10 years ago on Introduction
I suspect you'd either reach a point where the trade-off of drag, friction etc against performance reaches an equilibrium at - just guessing - probably no more than three sails ... OR ... it might evolve into a complete circle of tens, hundreds, who know of sails.
Brilliant concept. Many thanks.
10 years ago on Introduction
You should have patented this. Now it can't be patented.
10 years ago on Introduction
Brilliant!
Sure, it may not be the perfect and-solution... But hey: It is a prototype.
And it seems to work.
What do you think are the main-benefits in comparison to "normal" propellers? May your idea be better in low-wind-situations than the common design we know? Or in very harsh winds?
Anyway: I am looking forward what may be changed and developed with this idea. Go on and dont listen to the Ney-sayers... :)
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Thanks to everyone for the positive comments and suggestions.
Typical propellers in high winds need to be shut down because of the vibrations.
Typical Propellers might be difficult to start in low wind
High rpm leads to unwanted noise
This design will work well in low and high wind speeds. ( I took a leaf blower to it and it still spun real nicely)
Possible future design changes:
Enclosed belt design ( to protect it from uv rays)
Polymer bearings on exposed parts(Eg: "Igus" bearings), ...Weather no longer issue ........
More aerodynamic foils
10 years ago on Introduction
your design is awesome!! I understand that you made a "design concept" or "working model" do go on from. As for the concerns that others have about the losses due to friction others are bringing up, that is where new designs come from, thinking past the losses for the gains.
Your instructions and labeling were also great. Keep going!!
10 years ago on Introduction
Using profiled blades (like airplane wings) instead of flat blades, improves the torque, also this design could use Jacques Cousteau's turbosail principle (very interesing!), but that would be too complicated. The beauty of this design is in it's simplicity. Another idea is too carve little dimples on one side of the blades, this will create an air layer and increase the air speed on this side creating a vacuum, and consequently increasing the torque. Just suggestions! ;) Your design is really great!
10 years ago on Introduction
Well done! I had a similar idea a few months ago, but I never made a physical model. I'd be very interested to know how much more efficient it is. Keep up the good work!
10 years ago on Introduction
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