Introduction: Venom Snake Automaton: Instructions
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- 3D PRINTING THE AUTOMATON
- TORSO ASSEMBLY (G1)
- LEGS ASSEMBLY (G2 AND G3)
- ACCESSORIES ASSEMBLY(G4)
- COLUMN ASSEMBLY (G5)
- POWERTRAIN ASSEMBLY (G6)
- RIGHT CAMS ASSEMBLY (G7)
- RIGHT RAILS ASSEMBLY (G8)
- RIGHT SCISSORS ASSEMBLY (G9)
- LEFT CAMS ASSEMBLY (G10)
- LEFT RAILS ASSEMBLY (G11)
- LEFT SCISSORS ASSEMBLY (G12)
- FRONT CAMS ASSEMBLY (G13)
- FRONT MECHANICS ASSEMBLY (G14)
- FEET, PLATFORM, AND BASE ASSEMBLY (G15 AND G16)
Step 1: License
Non-Commercial, Personal, No file sharing, No Remix.
- Strictly non-commercial, personal use only.
- You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms).
- The objects may not be used in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, collect fees, or receive any form of remuneration.
Step 2: INTRO - Features
- All parts fit easily
- Divided into small groups for easy assembly
- Detailed instructions
- Suggested 3D printing settings
- No additional hardware is required (All parts are 3D printed)
Step 3: INTRO - Assembly Simplification
This automaton was divided into smaller groups to simplify the assembly. Each group is a self-contained assembly. This allows working on a group while another group is being printed.
Step 4: INTRO - Optimal Orientation and Settings for 3D Printing
Each part comes already in its optimal position for 3d printing (FDM) and with recommended settings.
Step 5: INTRO - Built-in Brims and "Stabilizers"
Since not all slicers can add a per object brim, I have added brims to the objects that need them.
Although this Automaton was designed to be printed on FDM machines, I added SLA tree supports. These are not meant to support the model, they are meant to stabilize it. The parts that have these "stabilizers" also need regular support.
WARNING: The brims were tested using PLA. If you use a different filament, you might need to add a brim to the parts that don't have it.
Step 6: INTRO - Registration Pins
To help with the alignment of some parts, I added registration pins. These are short pieces of filament that are inserted between the parts.
The Filament Ruler was designed to help measure and cut the filament.
Step 7: INTRO - Required Tools and Supplies
- Flush cutter
- Nail file
- A lubricant that is compatible with plastics
- Filament Ruler (3D printed; the file is included)
- Alignment tool (3D printed; the file is included)
- Acrylic paints (optional)
- Varnish (optional)
- Toothpicks (optional, recommended)
- Popsicle sticks (optional, recommended)
- Painter's tape (optional, recommended)
Step 8: INTRO - Tips and Tricks
- Aligning Parts with Painter’s Tape: In some small parts, I couldn’t include registration pins. To properly align them you could use painter’s tape.
- Apply Super Glue with a Toothpick: When you need to apply super glue on tiny parts, using a toothpick can avoid the squeeze-out. Place a dab of super glue on a disposable surface, like a piece of cardboard, and with the tip of the toothpick gather a small drop, then apply it to the part.
- Use a Toothpick to Remove Support: When you need to remove support in hard to reach places, using a toothpick can be helpful, and most importantly, it doesn’t scratch the surface.
- Remove Support Like Eating Pasta: Using needle-nose pliers, grab a small section of support, choose the farthest from the model, then twist the pliers (don’t pull) wrapping the support around itself as it turns. Work your way to the model little by little.
- Use Scissors to Remove the Built-in Brim: The brim is 0.3 mm thick to accommodate the most amount of 3D printers (because of the thickness of the first layer). And since it is built-in, it is very difficult to remove by hand. Therefore, I strongly recommend scissors to remove the built-in brim.