Introduction: Vinyl Record Display Stand
If you find yourself needing a place to set your record sleeve for what you've currently got spinning on your turntable, then this project is for you! I made it for a buddy of mine that is a DJ, so I've got his logo laser engraved on there. That step is optional, of course. In fact, this project can go in many different ways, and I encourage you to make it your own!
- Wood of your choosing. How much you need will depend on what you use. I had a couple pieces of oak on hand, one was 1-inch thick, and I used what equated to 8x20 inch piece of it. The other piece you'll need, for the front, is 3x2.5x6 inches.
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- Miter Saw: https://amzn.to/3jduJaC
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- DeWalt Random Orbital Sander: https://amzn.to/3jy0Zol
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- Japanese Pull Saw: https://amzn.to/2CQZdOU
- K40 Laser Engraver: https://amzn.to/2CQZdOU
- Doweling Jig ( https://amzn.to/3gQPqql ) or 1/4-inch dowel and drill bit
- Danish Oil: https://amzn.to/2ZiwfAb
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Some of the links here are Amazon Affiliate links. Its no extra work, or charge, for you, but I do get a small commission if you choose to purchase through any of those links.
Step 1: Prepare the Back Support Material.
To get started, we'll cut the triangles (technically, not triangles, because they have 4 sides total, but, close enough). See the photo for the dimensions I used for this shape. Or, make your own shape! I do recommend it is 8 inches tall, to be sure it has enough height to display the album at a nice angle, and not tip over.
Whatever you're using for material, you want enough layers to get at least 3-inches thick for the back support. In my case, I cut out 3 layers, each just a hair over an inch thick.
Step 2: CLAMP!
Sand the faces of all the parts you just cut out, so they're nice and flat and smooth for clamping.
Now grab every clamp you have. Or, maybe even just a few. Spread a liberal amount of glue on the faces that will be in contact with one another. Then CLAMP! Be sure you distribute clamping pressure evenly across the entire faux-triangle.
Step 3: Prepare the Front Block!
For this one, I had a chunk of oak on hand that was already the thickness I wanted, 1.5-inches, and the height I wanted, 2.5 inches. So I cut off a 6-inch long section. If you need, this is another opportunity to glue up another blank to create the front block of these dimensions.
Once your block is ready, we want to cut a 30 degree angle off the front of it, so it matches the shape of the "triangles" we cut in Step 1. This can be done with either a table saw, band saw, or even a hand saw if you're looking for a workout.
With that angle cut, you now have a great canvas for customization. For me, I took this to my laser engrave to brand it with the logo of the DJ for which I was creating this.
Step 4: Get the Middle Chunk Ready.
Now that we have the front part, and the back support, we need a way to connect them. This will start at 6 inches wide on one side, to match the length of the front block, and then angle back to meet the sides of the back support we made earlier (and should be removed from the clamps by now, as long as it's been in there long enough for the glue to dry, which will vary from glue to glue, check your glue's label for the manufacturer's recommendation).
Mark the centerline of the back support, as well as the middle chunk. You don't need to worry about alignment marks for the middle chunk & front block, so long as they're the same length. Arrange the middle chunk with the back support, so those center marks are in line, and then mark where the sides of the back support are on the face of the middle chunk (See the pictures if this text isn't making sense to you).
Connect those marks to the front corners of the middle chunk, so you have a trapezoid marked out on this piece. Then take that to your favorite saw, and cut along those lines to create that trapezoid.
Step 5: Asssemble the Pieces!
Now that we have all the necessary pieces, we need to put them together. For this, we'll use dowels.
On the long and short sides of the triangle, we want to mark an inch in from each edge, and mid-way up the face. That's where we'll drill a quarter-inch hole. If you're using a doweling jig, use the depth collar, and set it so you'll be drilling just over half the depth of your dowel pin. If you don't have a jig, you can use masking tape to mark your drill bit to be sure you don't drill too deep. [Also, don't make the same mistake I did. You want to be sure these holes are perpendicular to the face into which you're drilling. Mine were slightly askew, so the parts didn't align very well on the first try. I had to re-drill one set of holes slightly larger, so the dowels had room to slot into the holes at the weird angle I drilled them.]
Once you have the holes drilled on one face, you can use dowel centers to mark where to drill the matching holes on the mating face. Then you know where to drill on the next pieces. Repeat this until you have the holes drilled in each face.
Before assembling, I'd recommend giving each piece it's final sanding, this will be much easier to do now that when this is assembled.
Now, put glue into the holes, insert dowels, spread some glue on the faces that will be clamped together, then clamp!
Step 6: Apply Finish!
Using a finish of your choice, apply it according to the manufacturer's guidelines. For mine, I used Danish Oil. It's simple to apply, simply wipe it on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes. Re-apply the oil only if the wood seems to have completely soaked it in.
And now you're done! Use your new creation to display your records in style!