Introduction: Wall-E Robot
This is my Wall-E project that I am currently working on it is 150mm x 150mm x 160 high, it uses a pair of Mattracks http://www.litefootatv.com/html/litefoot_in_the_news.htm for motive power and two robosapienV2 hip motors. It will be controlled by a BS2P40 stamp CPU and will have the following functions described below.
I build robots quite prolific but my let down is programing "hopeless but learning" I have a friend at http://www.robocommunity.com who is programing it for me, From this I hope to learn how this program is put together and eventually program myself. We are in the progress of designing the H-bridge for the motors using the L298 chip, The head is finished apart from his adorable eyebrows which http://www.musclewires.com/shapememoryalloys.shtml wire or Muscle flex and pan/tilt has been run.
The main reason for building this project was to see if I could use parts from my stock of components that I have lying around my basement and electronics room, The only thing so far that I have had to buy is the Mattracks , uOLED screen and L298 H-bridge ic. Which GWJax is sending me. I was inspired to build this project after seeing a Pixar demo video and thought WOW what a neat bot to build.
I have been in R/C scale and other unorthodox aircraft for over 30yrs and modeling is my passion, so this comes in handy when creating something like Wall-E. I hope you like how it is coming along. I would also like to add that GWJax has been an inspiration to me on the programming side.The main construction of Wall-E is 5mm lite ply, sides,front,back and top, with 2mm balsa cladding on the sides with some 1.5mm ply to form the raised panels. Rivets were made using PVA glue watered down 40% and applied to the required area's with a sharp pointed rod, One dip will give you 3 rivets. The arms were constructed out of 1.5mm ply and balsa, and uses 4 of my Technics air rams back to back, The fingers were modded Technics angle beams covered in 1mm ply for the sides and balsa top and bottom.
The base is constructed out of 5mm Acrylic sheet as this is good for boring holes to mount your fittings. the head H'mmm a real challenge here, I had to draw it out first to get the pear shaped eye right then work from there. The main eye tube was a pair of alloy pill containers which worked out to be the right size for the head. The Blue LEDs x 6, 3 in each eye are mounted on a 5mm acrylic disc and inserted in the tube about 2/3rds down, then another Acrylic disc in front with the ping sonar in each eye.The ping sonar is from TX and RX had to be removed from the board [tricky and an extension lead [screened] run from the board to the Tx and RX in each eye. I was not sure at the time if this would alter the characteristics of the range, but after testing this was unfounded.
The eyes light up at present using a circuit which has a CDS cell and when you switch the lights of the eyes come on, GWJax may code this to work also with some other functions on Wall-E.Wall-E was finished with off the shelf spraykote enamel cans, grey primer, followed by antirust primer, then layered with yellow, rivets applied, then sliver over the rivet area, followed by an airbrushed rust over the rivets. The whole body was then rubbed with scotchbrite pads until the rust and some silver was showing through, then airbrushed with a mix of satin varnish and grey primer to give Wall-E that weathered effect.The head was done in a similar way but with different colors. Phew, I think that's it guys. Check out my web site.
http://robosapienv2-4mem8.page.tl/ Robotic Madness
1. Use my Mattracks as the main drive unit
2. Motor drive gear motors using H bridge controllers
3. Pan/tilt head using Parallax ultra sonic ping
4. 3 GP2D12 IR edge detectors or similar detectors
5. raise and lower the arms as a pair [up and down only]
6. raise and lower the front door
7. [Maybe not sure yet] raise and lower the head
8.Use Parallax ping in both eyes
9. airbrush Wall-E to look authentic as possible.
10. Fit a uOLED in the front panel
11. Use a Parallax emic text to speech chip for wall-e's voice
12. Fit Ultra bright blue LEDs in Wall-E's eyes
13. Make a pair of H bridges for the drive motors
14. solar cell to charge batteries
15. voice changer circuit for Emic text to speech
16. Speaker
I build robots quite prolific but my let down is programing "hopeless but learning" I have a friend at http://www.robocommunity.com who is programing it for me, From this I hope to learn how this program is put together and eventually program myself. We are in the progress of designing the H-bridge for the motors using the L298 chip, The head is finished apart from his adorable eyebrows which http://www.musclewires.com/shapememoryalloys.shtml wire or Muscle flex and pan/tilt has been run.
The main reason for building this project was to see if I could use parts from my stock of components that I have lying around my basement and electronics room, The only thing so far that I have had to buy is the Mattracks , uOLED screen and L298 H-bridge ic. Which GWJax is sending me. I was inspired to build this project after seeing a Pixar demo video and thought WOW what a neat bot to build.
I have been in R/C scale and other unorthodox aircraft for over 30yrs and modeling is my passion, so this comes in handy when creating something like Wall-E. I hope you like how it is coming along. I would also like to add that GWJax has been an inspiration to me on the programming side.The main construction of Wall-E is 5mm lite ply, sides,front,back and top, with 2mm balsa cladding on the sides with some 1.5mm ply to form the raised panels. Rivets were made using PVA glue watered down 40% and applied to the required area's with a sharp pointed rod, One dip will give you 3 rivets. The arms were constructed out of 1.5mm ply and balsa, and uses 4 of my Technics air rams back to back, The fingers were modded Technics angle beams covered in 1mm ply for the sides and balsa top and bottom.
The base is constructed out of 5mm Acrylic sheet as this is good for boring holes to mount your fittings. the head H'mmm a real challenge here, I had to draw it out first to get the pear shaped eye right then work from there. The main eye tube was a pair of alloy pill containers which worked out to be the right size for the head. The Blue LEDs x 6, 3 in each eye are mounted on a 5mm acrylic disc and inserted in the tube about 2/3rds down, then another Acrylic disc in front with the ping sonar in each eye.The ping sonar is from TX and RX had to be removed from the board [tricky and an extension lead [screened] run from the board to the Tx and RX in each eye. I was not sure at the time if this would alter the characteristics of the range, but after testing this was unfounded.
The eyes light up at present using a circuit which has a CDS cell and when you switch the lights of the eyes come on, GWJax may code this to work also with some other functions on Wall-E.Wall-E was finished with off the shelf spraykote enamel cans, grey primer, followed by antirust primer, then layered with yellow, rivets applied, then sliver over the rivet area, followed by an airbrushed rust over the rivets. The whole body was then rubbed with scotchbrite pads until the rust and some silver was showing through, then airbrushed with a mix of satin varnish and grey primer to give Wall-E that weathered effect.The head was done in a similar way but with different colors. Phew, I think that's it guys. Check out my web site.
http://robosapienv2-4mem8.page.tl/ Robotic Madness
1. Use my Mattracks as the main drive unit
2. Motor drive gear motors using H bridge controllers
3. Pan/tilt head using Parallax ultra sonic ping
4. 3 GP2D12 IR edge detectors or similar detectors
5. raise and lower the arms as a pair [up and down only]
6. raise and lower the front door
7. [Maybe not sure yet] raise and lower the head
8.Use Parallax ping in both eyes
9. airbrush Wall-E to look authentic as possible.
10. Fit a uOLED in the front panel
11. Use a Parallax emic text to speech chip for wall-e's voice
12. Fit Ultra bright blue LEDs in Wall-E's eyes
13. Make a pair of H bridges for the drive motors
14. solar cell to charge batteries
15. voice changer circuit for Emic text to speech
16. Speaker
Step 1: Gear Motors
RobosapienV2 Hip motors with bevel hex gear.
Step 2:
Hex shafts fitted to motor
Step 3:
Step 4:
Step 5:
Motors fitted to Mattracks
Step 6:
Motors fitted to acrylic base
Step 7:
Alloy brackets fitted to acrylic base
Step 8:
5mm lite ply base and sides
Step 9:
Front and back ply added
Step 10:
Extra side panels from 1.5mm ply, uOLED in front panel
Step 11:
Step 12:
Solar led recharge panel right
Step 13:
Front panels now in place
Step 14:
Laminated side panels 1.5mm ply
Step 15:
Technics LEGO rams for the arms, glued back to back
Step 16:
1.5mm ply box to cover the rams
Step 17:
Various layers to represent the metal panels
Step 18:
Side panels now glued in place
Step 19:
Arms in place
Step 20:
Door and grippers now in place
Step 21:
This is the eye section, four 1.5mm ply formers
Step 22:
Two alloy pill containers and formers
Step 23:
Ply formers glued in place on the alloy containers
Step 24:
Formers now covered in balsa, and back sections added
Step 25:
More balsa added to the rear
Step 26:
Neck section made out of 1.5mm ply
Step 27:
Internal formers to accommodate servos
Step 28:
Ply box joined together and 1.5 mm balsa glued around the edges
Step 29:
Balsa detail added to the neck
Step 30:
Pan/tilt servos head and neck ready for assembly
Step 31:
Neck added to the head via pan servo
Step 32:
Tilt servo added at the base
Step 33:
All parts ready to put together
Step 34:
Main body primed ready for painting
Step 35:
2nd stage of priming, rust brown
Step 36:
Rivet detail is watered down PVA glue 40% and applied by a sharp nail
Step 37:
Gripper detail, 3rd stage silver applied
Step 38:
Silver applied over rivet detail
Step 39:
A lot of detail is now coming together, 4th coat yellow applied and weathering starting to take place
Step 40:
Rams at rear, and weathering taking place, using scotch brite pads.
Step 41:
Arm detail now added, and front door, more weathering also done
Step 42:
Wiring for the 6 LED blue lights in his eyes
Step 43:
Internal discs for the eyes, these are inserted in the alloy tubes and house the LEDS, front rings are for the Ping sonar
Step 44:
Wiring the LEDS
Step 45:
Wiring loom and ping sonar now installed
Step 46:
Weathered detail of Wall-E and ping sonar eyes
Step 47:
Head/neck attached to body
Step 48:
almost finished Wall-E
Step 49:
Here's looking at you
Step 50:
Wall-E's eyes lit up