Introduction: Walnut Standing Desk | Hidden Inductive Charger
I finally built myself a proper walnut desk with a power base! Here's my walnut standing desk build! I can't believe this is my desk. This is my dream desk I've always wanted to build. I locally sourced some beautiful walnut wood and a motorized base so I could have a standing desk or sitting desk in my office. I even included a hidden drawer, hidden inductive phone charger and finished it with Odie's oil!
Follow my video and build yourself your dream desk and let me know how it goes!
Here is my Instructables to make the drawer https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Drawer-B...
Main Features
-Power base https://amzn.to/3BxWXFU
-Hidden inductive charger (phone charger)
-Beveled skirt
-Hidden drawer
Supplies
-Wood of your choice
-Power base
-Inductive charger
Step 1: Design/materials
I designed my concept in Fusion 360 3D CAD software. I made sure to consider all the features I wanted like a drawer, PC holder, inductive phone charger and power base. Then sourced my lumber from a local hardwood store.
Step 2: Cutting Boards to Size for Top
Next I determined the final size of the top and then figured out how wide each of the boards would need to be to get that final width. Then I cut them all to an equal width and about 2" longer than the final length so I could cut the ends even after its glued up.
Step 3: Gluing Up the Top
Then I applied wood glue on all the edges and clamped with even pressure. I used cauls to keep the top even when clamping but you could also used biscuit joints, dowels or biscuits to aid in alignment. I let the glue up dry for about 3 hours and then unclamped.
Step 4: Planing and Sanding the Top
Then to ensure the top was as flat as possible, I used my power hand planer to plane the top until the joints between boards were smooth. Then I rough sanded with the belt sander with a 60 grit belt. Finally, I sanded with my orbital sander working my way from 80-120 grit sandpaper.
Step 5: Cutting Ends and Routered Edge
I used an edge guide and a circular saw to cut the ends off. I made sure my cut was perpendicular to the long edges, straight and also cutting it to the final length. I then added a nice chamfered edge with my router to make the table look nice and be more comfortable to use.
Step 6: Assembling the Base
I took a break from the heat and sawdust and assembled the power base using the manufacturers instructions. I needed this installed to determine the final dimensions of the drawer and the length slides I needed to order.
Step 7: Inductive Phone Charger
With the base laid on the top I marked all the mounting holes and the skirt location so I could see where the inductive charger could fit. I then marked that location and drilled a small hole at the center of the charger to mark the location on the top. Then I flipped the top over and taped the charging symbol I printed out over the hole I just drilled. Then I carved out the symbol with a sharp box cutter and squared off the edged with a sharp chisel. Then I filled with black CA glue and sanded flush with the wood surface.
Next I determined how thick the top could be and still allow the phone to charge through the top. I did this by using playing cards as spacers and then measured the final thickness of the stack of cards.
Now that I new the final thickness, I made a quick router pattern and used blue tape and CA glue to glue it in place. Then I used a pattern bit in my router to cut out the circle to the right depth. Finally, I cut a slot in the table to route the charger wire.
After testing to make sure my phone charged, I used hot glue to secure the charger in place.
Step 8: Building the Skirt
I wanted my skirt to be beveled, so I cut a 30 degree bevel cut on each long edge. The bevel cuts should be parallel to each other as shown. Then I made 30 degree nailing blocks to attach the skirt to and glued them to the top with wood and CA glue. Next I cut the skirt sections to length with 45 degree miter cuts in the corners using my crown molding jig.
Then I preassembled the corners with wood glue, CA glue and tape. After the glue was dry, I nailed the skirt onto the nailing blocks. Do not used glue to attach the skirts to the top. The wood is running in different directions and the expansion and contraction could cause cracks or glue failure. (I made this mistake in my video...)
While I was here, I also attached the power base controls to the top with wood screws.
Note: You can also add a drawer in the front skirt if you like. Here is a link to my Instructable on how to do that.
Step 9: PC Holder
Next I measure the dimensions of my computer so I could make the PC holder. This keeps the PC off the floor to reduce sucking up dust and also allows it to move up and down with the power base. I made a very basic holder in an "L" shape. I cut the vertical and horizon parts and then used a dado joint to connect the two pieces together. I assembled the two pieces with wood glue and brad nails. Then I filled the holes and sanded the assembly. To add some more strength, I installed a metal "L" bracket in a discrete location using wood screws.
I drilled holes in the base so I could screw the holder onto the base. I also used heavy duty Velcro near the bottom so endure the holder would not pull away from the base or swing. Finally, I used Velcro on the side of the PC to attach it to the holder to make sure it would not move around or fall off the holder.
Step 10: Final Sanding/finishing
I finished sanding with my orbital sander with a 240 grit sanding disk. Then I finished the top with my finish of choice. In this case I used Odie's Oil but feel free to use finish you prefer.
Install all of your computer components and tidy up all of your wiring and enjoy your new beautiful standing desk with built in phone charging!!
