Watch_Dogs 2 Working Wrench Cosplay Mask (bluetooth Controlled)

For ages now ive wanted a wrench mask, because, well who doesn't. so I decided to do a lot of research, learning a vast amount of new things, coding and electronics, and a lot of other cool productive stuff. The Wrench Mask contains 512 LEDS which is 256 LEDs per eye. it is powered by a 3.7v lipo polymer battery which like all of the hard ware in the mask, is contained within the mask. This mask also has a voice modulater encorperated into the design but is not needed in order to finish building the mask, it is optional. I have to give credit to a couple of people who have made, making this mask possible, enjina, and the never cat, whose ideas I have combined, altered and improved. for my build, I used red LEDs as they are really cool and were also quite cheap,no regrets at all as I was wanting those and way. lol.

WARNING

(for this build, knowledge in circuitry, coding in c++ and soldering is required.)

Step 1: Identifying the Materials Needed -

GOGGLES PARTS LIST:

so For starters, the parts required are: (pictures are in order to the parts listed below)

The goggles x1

which can be found literally on Ebay as "Airsoft Tactical Metal Mesh Eyes Protection"

bottom face shield x1

this is also on Ebay as a "army mesh goggles full face mask" and just remove the goggles from these as you will not be needing those.

adafruit 8x16 LED featherwing matrix display x4

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3149 <<=== LINK

Arduino nano x1

the pinout is in the picture above

hc-05 Bluetooth x1

the hc-05 is what is needed to connect to the mobile phone via Bluetooth.

3.7v lipo battery x1

this is what supplies power to the goggles and the voice modulator

power boost 100 lipo charger x1

this distributes the power from the battery and also charges it, and as a added plus it can turn your mask into a power pod to charge your phone, lol.

http://www.sedoniatech.com.au/electronics/powerboo... <<=== LINK

BOTTOM HALF OF THE MASK OR PIECE THAT GOES OVER MOUTH

variable buck booster x1

this can be purchased from jaycar or even any electronics shop

this variable buck booster amps up the imput voltage to the desired output voltage just by turning a little golden screw. this is just used for the voice modulator as the modulator requires 9v and the battery is 3.7v

the voice modulator x1

the voice modulator literally changes your voice to the voice you choose. to make louder encorperate a biigeer speaker.

switches x2

any dc switch should work just choose wisely

for this project to work you don't need 2 switches, but it is entirely up to you.

leather face shield x1

you can easily source this on Ebay

pack of screw on spikes

you can easily source this on Ebay

App For The Phone And Bluetooth

BLUETOOTH CONTROLLER

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=apps...

Step 2: Preparing the LEDs for Minor Modification:

As you can see via the photos, I have sanded off a tiny bit of the side of the board so that once I put them together, as indicated in the second photo, the boards look as if they are one unit. (The first photograph is of the board before the side was sanded off as an example of before and after)

Step 3: Identifying the Hardware I.e Pinouts

The pinout for the joined LED matrix is in photo above and for single is in link below:

Joint boards -

Red = 5v
Green = GND
Beige = SDA
Turquoise = SCL

for single board -

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-8x16-led-matri...

The HC-05 Bluetooth pinouts -

for the hc-05 don't use the key pin you will only need to use, rx, tx, GND and 5V

http://www.techbitar.com/modify-the-hc-05-bluetoot...

Arduino Nano pinouts -

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=147582.0

power boost 1000 pinout -

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-powerboost-100...

Step 4: Wiring Up LEDs

Right, so you will have to join up the coloured lines that are seen in the picture above and also copy the soldering that follows down the centre of the two boards. (around step 3 the colours are defined there)

you will have to solder and clip the actual LEDs to each board which will no doubt require some skill and precision because as I have found out, if the soldering isn't neat, some rows of leds will not respond to the commands. (as shown in the 3rd picture some of the leds aren't connecting the words).

like the picture above, both eyes should be wired up in parallel (like the 4th picture apologies for the dodgy wiring colors as they are all different coloring)and eventually you will define each address so the code is specific for each one.

if you have a Arduino UNO you can always use that until you have perfected the wiring and then mount it in to the goggles.

Step 5: Soldering Up and Mounting the Bottomhalf of the Mask

in the first picture, please ignore the white button or lamp switch, that was just to test the on/off I made for the voice modulator.

in the 2nd and 3rd picture you will see the power boost 1000, follow the connections in the picture, the 3rd picture shows the too connections, the left two are for the voice modulator and the right two wires are for the on/off switch.

the two wires that ae for the voice modulator first lead to the buck booster that then amps up the voltage, from there it goes to the voice modulator.

to mount the leather face mask over the hardware, I just put a hole in both and skrew the spike through both, that will hold the leather on it.