Weld Free Electric Longboard

This time, I want to show you how to make a weld free electric longboard.

My mission was to build a very professionell electric longboard at a price of 350-400€. It is very confortable to ride, because it has 97mm wheels. So small rocks don't affect you. Also you have less vibrations when you drive faster compared to smaller wheels.

Specs:

• Top Speed: 35km/h
• Battery: 2x 6s 22.2V 5000mAh Lipo
• Range: 20km

If you like my Instructable, please vote for me in the Make it Move Contest :-)

Update 01.05.2016:

Added Video

### Falls Jemand aus dem Raum Dortmund / Unna / Kamen kommt und auch ein elektrisches Longboard besitzt, wäre es bestimmt nett sich mal zu treffen. Mit mehreren zu fahren macht einfach mehr Spaß :-). Hinterlasst mir hier einfach eine Nachricht ###

Step 1: BOM - Excel-File

I made it simple for you :-).

Here is the complete BOM-Excel file for the weld free electric longboard incl. price list.

You just need to download the attached file and open it with Excel. (German)

Step 2: Fusion 360 Motor Bracket File

If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app)

I also upload a .f3d file for Fusion360 and a .step file for other CAD programs

Step 3: Prepare the Wood Plates

At first you have to buy two 120x60cm in lenght 4mm thick plywood. Then you cut it in four 120x30cm pieces

Step 4: Stick the Wood Plates Together

Now you stick the four 40x120cm woodplates together. At first you have to make sure that you have enough PVA / wood glue. You need 400ml glue for all plates. Once you have checked that you have enough , you spread a glue layer on the first plate. Make sure that you use enough glue!

After you have spreaded all plates with glue, you have to press the plates together.

Attention when pressing:

You need to build a press form, which forms a concave longboard deck, because only the concave in the deck makes your longboard rigid and flexible at the same time! See at the pictures, how my press form looks like :-)

The deck have to stay at least one (better two or three) day in the form, until the glue is strong enough that it can hold the plates together.

Step 5: Remove the Plates From the Form

Here you can see, how a well glued longboard deck looks like, when it comes out of the form.

It is perfect, when you see some glue at the edges.

Step 6: Cut Out the Typical Longboard Design

For the perfect longboard form, I used some transparent baking paper. For the right size, please look at the pictures. Once you have marked your size on the deck, you can cut it out. For this step I used a jigsaw.

Step 7: Grind the Edges

To remove the sharp edges, I used an electric router. Now I have some very smooth edges. Additionally it is very recommed to sand the complete deck. Later it will give you better results at the painting. I used a 180 corning sand paper.

Step 8: Paint It!

At first, don't forget to sand your deck. This is highly recommend, because it will remove the tiny hair from the wood plates. Once sanded, you paint the deck black. Let it dry for at least one day. After that, you have to apply a thin layer of laquer. Let it also dry for one day. Then sand it again and apply a new layer of laquer. Repeat this step four times that you have 4 layers of laquer on both sides of your longboard deck

Step 9: Attach the Grip Tape

After the laquer is dry enough, you can start to attach the griptape to the longboard deck.

You do that like this:

1. Glue the griptape to the deck. Make sure that you have no air bubbles under the griptape.
2. After that, prepare the edges of the deck. I used a file shaft for this step (See pictures)
3. Then you can cut the unused griptape with a sharp knife.
4. At last, you open the holes for the axis/battery box

Step 10: Attach the Axis to the Deck

You simply have to screw the axis to the deck, by using the M5x30mm screws

Step 11: Make the Motor Bracket

For this step is it highly recommend to download the attached PDF for the motor bracket. Or even better the CAD file at the top of my instruction :-)

I used a 15mm thick aluminium block for the axis bracket and a 5mm for the motormount.

Required tools:

• Jigsaw with asawblade for alumnium
• A drilling machine
• some files in different sizes

For the work flow, please look at the pictures, drawings and the Fusion360 file.

Step 12: Connect the Motor Mount to the Axis

At first you have to grind the shaft from the axis that you are able to push the axis holder on the axis. Once completed, you have to screw the motorholder to the axis holder. For that step, I used three screws and three self-locking nuts.

Step 13: Connect the Gear to the Wheel

At first a big thanks to buZztiaan from Thingiverse for sharing his awesome 48 tooth longboard gear for flywheels!

For this step you need:

• 1x Flywheel
• 1x The 48 tooth gear for HTD5M belt from Thingiverse + retrainer
• 6x M5 Hex nuts
• 6x M5 washers
• 6x M5x70mm screws

See pictures, how to assemble the gear with the wheel :-)

Step 14: Detailed Pictures From the Motor Mount

Step 15: Build the Electronic Box

To protect your electronic against dirt, you should build a box, which you attach under the longboard

Required Parts:

• 2x 250x70x18mm plywood
• 1x 145x70x6mm plywood
• 1x 95x170x1,5mm perforated metal
• 290x290x2mm aluminium plates
• Some small wood screws

What you make:

• At first you cut the 18mm plywood in a 70° angel
• Then you bend the perforated metal, that it has the same high as the 18mm plywood
• After that you drill some holes inside the aluminium plate
• Then you screw the parts together (see pictures)

Step 16: Splint Pin

To guarantee that the box is to 100% closed when you drive, you need to make a splint pin. I bend them by myself out of some stainless steel. The safety Pin is also diy from an old wire.

Step 17: Detailed Pictures From the Box

Step 18: How to Protect Your LIPOs Against Water, Dirt and Vibrations

I attached some foam inside and under the electronic box to protect the Lipos and the ESC against dirt and vibrations. I get my foam from some old packing material.

Step 19: 3D-Printed Wire Channel

This 3D-Printed wire channel is highly recommend for a professionel look.

I print it at a layer hight of 0.2mm out of black PLA

Step 20: Connect the Electronic

Once you completed the box, you have to attach the electronic. For that I used the 9mm plywood inside the box. I drilled some holes, that I could connect the ESC and Receiver with Zipties.

You simply have to connect the ESC and Receiver like in every normal RC-Car.